65 Dart Wagon Conversion to a Sedan Delivery

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Martythetrimmer said:
wish the utes had used the long doors as well. Could do it to mine as I've moved the rear wall back 150mm. But that maybe a step too far!

View attachment 1715792281
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if I live long enough and find another wagon, I’d like to do a Ute But with the longer doors. It was kind of a toss up between a Ute and Sedan Delivery - the delivery won. BTW, I love what you’ve done with the Ute - been following since the beginning!
 
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Got the 2.15/70x14 tires mounted and balanced (but not yet installed in the back and no suspension up front yet) on my Magnum 500s rims. I’ve had these rims for at least 15-20 years. Put the new tires on the “new” rims and a used tire (same size) on an old painted road wheel that will be a spare

4024F344-E32B-4B8E-94F3-21D55BD45620.jpeg


Pulled the 4 NOS caps and retainers from my parts stache to get them ready to install to the rims

CA05C947-1249-4A19-AB7B-85A9E8E048A6.jpeg


I got the 20 NOS chrome lug nuts plus 2 spares out that I bought from Richard Ehrenburg years ago.

DD23A19E-4C52-427B-8911-A3551A77D791.jpeg


After I get at least one wheel on, I will have pictures
 
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Martythetrimmer said:
wish the utes had used the long doors as well. Could do it to mine as I've moved the rear wall back 150mm. But that maybe a step too far!

View attachment 1715792281
Click to expand...
that gives a better proportioned bed than if it used long doors. have a look at el camino's and ranchero's as they all have a decent length bed too.
neil.
 
65 Dartman said:
Well, I got an issue with the rear end - got a small leak between the housing and the pumpkin at the bottom GRRRR! I’m sure i torqued all the nuts but will double check before i do any disassemble. Needs to be taken care of it before the rear end gets installed!
Click to expand...

65 Dartman said:
Well I must have screwed up - it’s a good thing there was a leak and I discovered it before the rear end was installed- 3 or 4 nuts at the bottom were still loose - not completed torqued. It’s fixed now!
Click to expand...

And I’ve still got a leak at the bottom after torquing all the bolts including the ones I forgot to do initially. Looks like I need to pull the brakes, axles and pumpkin, double check the housing and pumpkin’s mating surfaces, new gasket and just a thin bead of sealer all the way around. Did I say I hate leaks!

No matter which way I tried to position the 76 A Body cop car rear sway and the end link brackets on the shock plates, the calipers still interferes with it. since it won’t fit eith the disc brakes, i will list it for sale later.


On a more positive note, FedEx brought me some presents this afternoon from PST. Thanks to the advice on some of tge suspension threads i opted fir the Bilsteins RCD shocks and thanks to the discount offered to FABO members, I saved just about $50 over retail

CD559A47-4204-4163-B8FC-AD2B90879809.jpeg
 
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The heater portion of the HVAC system is done. I used the DMT HVAC restoration kit for all the seals for both the AC side and now the finishing up with the heater side:

The floor heat vent seal:

C3B1B418-A44C-4D86-9BDA-2CBC1834F391.jpeg


The other side that is seen when open got sanded, primed and painted black:

EB075273-7EB2-4F3E-BA9C-8784236F8EEB.jpeg


The fresh air door gets seals on both sides:

C4FC80AF-2B42-4A2A-8A1D-B96C1E58EFA7.jpeg


It gets a new heater core from my parts stache:

21DC7BC9-96D4-4D4D-8100-6C8FC5ED96F7.jpeg


I applied new seam sealer around the perimeter of the core and installed it to the case. A new gasket and tube alignment plate completed that part of the rebuild:

0E462C1B-BCAC-42B6-9D43-C223310E8964.jpeg


After cleaning the fresh air vent door, it got a new seal on the inside and coat of black paint on the exterior of the door:

57B69B65-40EB-4F80-AFDC-E87E99861225.jpeg


Install the resistor:
48D4B520-D40D-4EAA-B438-256CAAD24C9E.jpeg


and install the box to lower cowl seal and blower motor rear seal:
D6839911-19A2-411B-BE6C-FF496AFB8099.jpeg


and ready to install

B55C6B3F-BA17-4C30-9865-DD8C73966EE3.jpeg


85FE115C-122B-4909-81A3-EF124AE663B0.jpeg
 
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65 Dartman said:
The heater portion of the HVAC system is done. I used the DMT HVAC restoration kit for all the seals for both the AC side and now the finishing up with the heater side:

The floor heat vent seal:

View attachment 1715796959

The other side that is seen when open got sanded, primed and painted black:

View attachment 1715796960

The fresh air door gets seals on both sides:

View attachment 1715796961

It gets a new heater core from my parts stache:

View attachment 1715796963

I applied new seam sealer around the perimeter of the core and installed it to the case. A new gasket and tube alignment plate completed that part of the rebuild:

View attachment 1715796965

After cleaning the fresh air vent door, it got a new seal on the inside and coat of black paint on the exterior of the door:

View attachment 1715796966

Install the resistor:
View attachment 1715796983

and install the box to lower cowl seal and blower motor rear seal:View attachment 1715796982

and ready to install

View attachment 1715796985

View attachment 1715796964
Click to expand...


Hi Don. Brings back memories for certain. I used the same DMT rebuild kit as you. I want to say thank you for taking the time for posting the photos and composing the detailed description each step of the way on your build!!! Your build has been a Mopar joy in following along. Takes some time to complete. I know from my 65 Dart Charger Clone build; however, I did not have quite as much to do as you have done. Thanks again. sgrip65
 
65 Dartman said:
The heater portion of the HVAC system is done. I used the DMT HVAC restoration kit for all the seals for both the AC side and now the finishing up with the heater side:

The floor heat vent seal:

View attachment 1715796959

The other side that is seen when open got sanded, primed and painted black:

View attachment 1715796960

The fresh air door gets seals on both sides:

View attachment 1715796961

It gets a new heater core from my parts stache:

View attachment 1715796963

I applied new seam sealer around the perimeter of the core and installed it to the case. A new gasket and tube alignment plate completed that part of the rebuild:

View attachment 1715796965

After cleaning the fresh air vent door, it got a new seal on the inside and coat of black paint on the exterior of the door:

View attachment 1715796966

Install the resistor:
View attachment 1715796983

and install the box to lower cowl seal and blower motor rear seal:View attachment 1715796982

and ready to install

View attachment 1715796985

View attachment 1715796964
Click to expand...

Wow, great work Don....!
 
65 Dartman said:
Got the 2.15/70x14 tires mounted and balanced (but not yet installed in the back and no suspension up front yet) on my Magnum 500s rims. I’ve had these rims for at least 15-20 years. Put the new tires on the “new” rims and a used tire (same size) on an old painted road wheel that will be a spare

View attachment 1715792358

Pulled the 4 NOS caps and retainers from my parts stache to get them ready to install to the rims

View attachment 1715792357

I got the 20 NOS chrome lug nuts plus 2 spares out that I bought from Richard Ehrenburg years ago.

View attachment 1715792364

After I get at least one wheel on, I will have pictures
Click to expand...
65 Dartman said:
The heater portion of the HVAC system is done. I used the DMT HVAC restoration kit for all the seals for both the AC side and now the finishing up with the heater side:

The floor heat vent seal:

View attachment 1715796959

The other side that is seen when open got sanded, primed and painted black:

View attachment 1715796960

The fresh air door gets seals on both sides:

View attachment 1715796961

It gets a new heater core from my parts stache:

View attachment 1715796963

I applied new seam sealer around the perimeter of the core and installed it to the case. A new gasket and tube alignment plate completed that part of the rebuild:

View attachment 1715796965

After cleaning the fresh air vent door, it got a new seal on the inside and coat of black paint on the exterior of the door:

View attachment 1715796966

Install the resistor:
View attachment 1715796983

and install the box to lower cowl seal and blower motor rear seal:View attachment 1715796982

and ready to install

View attachment 1715796985

View attachment 1715796964
Click to expand...
Looks great!
 
Don, you're doing such a nice job on all of this. It's going to be really nice when you're done.
 
65dartcharger said:
Is there any more major areas that needs work Don?
Click to expand...

Yes Sir! I need to install the 66 Barracuda front bucket upholstery. I already did the rear folddown and bottom cushion maybe 4 years ago and sealed them in large bags in my storage shed. I still need to polish and install the stainless trim for the seatback. I never took pictures so will have to do so soon.

I need to tear the 66 Commando motor down that I assembled for my now longgone Dart GT convertible. The crank that’s in it is for the pre-67 torque converters so it needs to come out for another forged crank with the larger torque converter pocket used on 68-later converters that the A500 uses.

I will preassemble the suspension to the K Frame. Lower control arms have been rebuilt with NOS bushings, blasted and painted. I need to mount the Helwig sway bar to the K and LCA sway bar tabs. Based on recommendations I’ve read in the Suspension Forum, I will be installing the QA1 adjustable strut rods. After mating the engine and A500, I will install them to the K. The plan is to drop the body over it.

I won’t call it major work but I need to complete all the engine compartment wiring, add the wiring to manually turn the A500’s OD on and off, run the hydraulic lines to the PATC setup (adjustable pressure switches to automatically operate the lockup and OD functions). No toggle switches, thank you.

There will he no doubt a lot of little things to sort out since this project was a complete teardown and rebuild with all the custom features I envisioned
 
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Hi Don. Won't be long!! You might remember my experience on my 65 GT using the same engine installation procedure. Turns out that there was not enough room dropping the body over the engine/K-frame assembly. All fits well except for the alternator...just not enough width between the frame. Found out the hard way, but not that big a deal. Just had to remove the alternator and re-install once the engine was placed. Thought I would comment on that procedure...lots to think about. Thanks for posting. sgrip65
 
I remember that problem with the alternator wanting to share the same space as the frame rails. I will likely install the AC compressor and PS Pump since they will certainly clear everything.
 
My Mopar buddy stopped by just as FedEx was delivering a package from Summit- the Addco rear sway bar I ordered. I told him stick around and he could give me a hand installing it and if he had time, we could also install the rear Bilstein shocks. The sway bar install went fairly easy, about 2 hours (which is what one of the Answers said in the Questions section in Summit. I had ordered the 3/4 in bar rather than the 7/8th bar. It clears the calipers, brake lines and from what can see, will easily clear the Commando exhaust. Addco says it fits from 63 through 76, which it likely does.

The Bilsteins from PST didn’t go as smooth as the poly bushings just didn’t want to go over the top stud nor the shock plate stud. It seems the holes in the bushings are smaller than the actual studs. With the judicious use of my heat gun, a socket and hammer to provide the persuasion, got them on and all buttoned up. These also fit from 63 through 76.

My early A gas tank is supposed to be delivered tomorrow so, if so, I can get the Holley sender/fuel pump assembly installed tomorrow and maybe get the tank installed. I told my friend if he’s not busy . . . .
54EC61E5-442B-42CD-B307-73A0D0EDE799.jpeg



E87DBBDD-260F-4B48-AF55-7A87EDA1F6CE.jpeg



62CAA14E-7FA1-4A9E-89CC-76A60E3314A1.jpeg
 
65 Dartman said:
The Bilsteins from PST didn’t go as smooth as the poly bushings just didn’t want to go over the top stud nor the shock plate stud. It seems the holes in the bushings are smaller than the actual studs. With the judicious use of my heat gun, a socket and hammer to provide the persuasion, got them on and all buttoned up.
Click to expand...
nice you got that done before the gas tank went it. that extra room is a huge help when the shocks are fighting you :lol:
 
The new tank arrived yesterday but I didn’t get to install it; the filler tube has some rust inside and outside at the bottom so I need to take care of that. The outside will be no problem but will need to soak the tank end in Evaporust.

8B15B026-7BFD-43E3-9E99-E3810FFA9C5A.jpeg


I did get the heater assembly installed. It installs basically the same as a non-AC unit with the J Hook as well also installing to a bracket on the AC unit

FAD4847D-D091-4022-99F1-27B3572CBB64.jpeg


Since there is no firewall mounting hardware, the only thing to install on the firewall is the gasket and heater tube bracket. I used a stainless screw for that. Leanna powdercoated the bracket in gloss black probably 6-7 years ago! The seal just above the heater is a specialized grommet with 3 holes in it for the vacuum source from the intake and two going to the water valve shutoff.

279614AB-7268-4A61-A3E0-2E1B216DB3B8.jpeg


Also routed the 2 electrical wires for the blower motor and AC compressor through another single hole grommet - blue to the compressor and green to the blower motor

2AA71F3D-A7E9-4EA0-BBF5-34571F5C91FE.jpeg


As some of you know I’m adding power door windows, thanks to a “How To Thread” @66Dvert posted. I had already run my wiring from the console to the kick panels. I found on eBay these nifty wiring looms that one end remains stationary while the other end slides in through a sleeve into the door. I Was able to come in through the access hole for the door jamb switch for the stationary side into the exterior panel of the kick panel. The other end goes in the door and when the door is opened the eire loom slides open. It works slicker than you know what. All that’s needed now is install connectors to join the motor wiring.

I also discovered that i will be unable to install the power door lock system as the door latchrod from the doir handle to the latch allows no room for the actuator plus there’s no Additional room in the wiring loom for even one additional wire inside.

11166DEE-CA48-4C9F-B937-06F3BDEB3D24.jpeg


Next is the carpet. I had previously bought an early A carpet set for an automatic. With the enlarged hump for the A500, it made the ends by the door’s carpet holddowns nearly 2 inches shy on each side. I suppose I could have cut the carpet right down the middle and added some filler carpet since it probably would have been hidden by the console. Instead I thought that since a 67 and later floor pan is wider than an early A, I wiuld try the later carpet set. With a some trimming around the first two console brackets, under the heater/AC units and then on the areas by the carpet holddowns, it fits quite nicely. With only one console bracket, the rear carpet went in even faster. The rear carpet has wider and longer side tails to cover the floor at the ends of the narrow Barracuda rear seat cushion. I think it all turned out quite nice. Seen in the top pic at the hump is the wiring for the console lights and heated seats.


A41FC321-FB54-4231-8584-6F74E196F10A.jpeg


B0A1942B-B984-4856-B1D2-870DD022CC65.jpeg


And finally I can barely move after climbing around inside the car
 
Hello Don. That firewall looks like a brand new car. Great care in assembly to keep it scratch free. I don't know if a wagon takes the same filler tube as a GT H.T or a sedan, but if you can't get yours cleaned up as you would like, I can send a nice one to you N.C. Great thread...very informative and documented. Enjoying following along. We will get out to see it in person for sure. Thanks for posting your great work. J.J.
 
Hi Jerry- thanks for the offer; however, the wagon’s filler tube is unique to the wagon.

During the metalwork stage of the build, I suppose i could have relocated the gas cap opening and maybe used a common sedan/hardtop or convertible filler tube or done something even more exotic. Not this time!
 
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65 Dartman said:
The new tank arrived yesterday but I didn’t get to install it; the filler tube has some rust inside and outside at the bottom so I need to take care of that. The outside will be no problem but will need to soak the tank end in Evaporust.

View attachment 1715798901

I did get the heater assembly installed. It installs basically the same as a non-AC unit with the J Hook as well also installing to a bracket on the AC unit

View attachment 1715798874

Since there is no firewall mounting hardware, the only thing to install on the firewall is the gasket and heater tube bracket. I used a stainless screw for that. Leanna powdercoated the bracket in gloss black probably 6-7 years ago! The seal just above the heater is a specialized grommet with 3 holes in it for the vacuum source from the intake and two going to the water valve shutoff.

View attachment 1715798870

Also routed the 2 electrical wires for the blower motor and AC compressor through another single hole grommet - blue to the compressor and green to the blower motor

View attachment 1715798871

As some of you know I’m adding power door windows, thanks to a “How To Thread” @66Dvert posted. I had already run my wiring from the console to the kick panels. I found on eBay these nifty wiring looms that one end remains stationary while the other end slides in through a sleeve into the door. I Was able to come in through the access hole for the door jamb switch for the stationary side into the exterior panel of the kick panel. The other end goes in the door and when the door is opened the eire loom slides open. It works slicker than you know what. All that’s needed now is install connectors to join the motor wiring.

I also discovered that i will be unable to install the power door lock system as the door latchrod from the doir handle to the latch allows no room for the actuator plus there’s no Additional room in the wiring loom for even one additional wire inside.

View attachment 1715798872

Next is the carpet. I had previously bought an early A carpet set for an automatic. With the enlarged hump for the A500, it made the ends by the door’s carpet holddowns nearly 2 inches shy on each side. I suppose I could have cut the carpet right down the middle and added some filler carpet since it probably would have been hidden by the console. Instead I thought that since a 67 and later floor pan is wider than an early A, I wiuld try the later carpet set. With a some trimming around the first two console brackets, under the heater/AC units and then on the areas by the carpet holddowns, it fits quite nicely. With only one console bracket, the rear carpet went in even faster. The rear carpet has wider and longer side tails to cover the floor at the ends of the narrow Barracuda rear seat cushion. I think it all turned out quite nice. Seen in the top pic at the hump is the wiring for the console lights and heated seats.


View attachment 1715798897

View attachment 1715798899

And finally I can barely move after climbing around inside the car
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Do you have a link for those wire looms? I've been looking for a better way than to hit the salvage yards and get 95-up ram door expansion looms since the darn things are huge!
BTW it looking GREAT. I'm jealous since I'm pretty much side tracked on my convertible making parts for it and haven't touched it in 6 months
 
66Dvert said:
Do you have a link for those wire looms? I've been looking for a better way than to hit the salvage yards and get 95-up ram door expansion looms since the darn things are huge!
BTW it looking GREAT. I'm jealous since I'm pretty much side tracked on my convertible making parts for it and haven't touched it in 6 months
Click to expand...

Thanks for the kind words! I found those wire looms on Amazon from the Better Cloud store. They come in either black or silver and are $24.95 for the pair plus state tax and free delivery. I see black is a next say delivery while the silver is about a week out. Hope this helps!
 
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I called on my buddy for his assistance with the dash since it’s completely assembled other than the actual stand alone instrument cluster (which has its own ribbon harness). I anticipated the dash will be (and was) a two person installation! I figured once it was in place i could reach through the cluster opening to connect the HVAC temperature control cable to the controller bracket. No Sir, that’s what I get for thinking! So I figured we could just leave the frame on the end side bolts on the kick panels and rotate it enough to connect the cable. Nope, now the cable won’t reach the controller bracket which is already installed. So remove the dash and set it down on the floor and remove the HVAC vontroller to attach the cable. Got all that installed and dash back in place. Oh crap, now I can’t get my hand in the back to plug the 2 wires into the fuse panel, which is now mounted to the back of the glove box. Man, it’s so cramped back there with the AC and heater assemblies. So, remove the bolts along the top the dash and rotate the dash. Now the wires to the fuse panel won’t reach because the wires are also connected to the controller AND the fuse panel is mounted on the right side of the dash in a shortened glove box AND the fresh air cable just installed won’t let the dash rotate eniugh. So remove the controller with the cable still attached for the 2nd time, remove the dash for 3rd time and install the the wires to the fuse panel. Got the dash back in place and secured the controller through the cluster opening just like I planned! As an aside to this fiasco, the bulkhead connector needed to be removed and reinstalled twice as the routing under the dash wasn’t right the first time. Luckily that part of the harness was long enough so it didn’t need to be removed every time we dropped the dash or the dash dropped to remove and reinstall the bulkhead connector. The AC manual mentions needing to remove the glove box to get at the defroster hoses; with the fuse panel attached to the back, the glove box is not coming out anytime soon! So I anticipate a fight to install the defroster hoses. 5 hours in messing with the dash and good luck to the next person if they have to take it out.

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Yes, all these wire do go someplace! 5 to the rear for brake lights, turn signals, park lights and gas gauge. 7 to the Dakota Digital brain box, 2 to the power seat, 2 to the power lumbar module, 3 to the power rear window, and 2 to the door power windows master switch.

AB82544D-F209-441B-8F84-D3F98D048E1E.jpeg


And the modified bulkhead connector. I have added an additional power buss circuit between the outer busses which go to the ignition switch and the middle one goes directly to the headlight switch and constant power in the fuse oanel

3866C033-EAB4-4B23-BC5C-90B31E970B88.jpeg
 
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