Project "Chihuahua" '65 Formula S Restoration "Estilo Mexicano"
Update: More final checks. Lowered vehicle to driveway pavement and was able to back it into the garage under its own power. However, the next day, it would not budge. I pushed it back outside and warmed up the engine. The dipstick on the Torqueflite (in neutral) was wet only on the very tip. I added another quart of ATF and then it decided to shift into both "reverse" and "drive". It still may be a pint or so low.
I adjusted the carburetor using the two idle mixture screws along with the center idle air screw. Idle speed is fairly steady at 800 RPM
I found the dwell (we have single points) at idle speed (in neutral) was varying a little on the meter 27-30 degrees (initial timing is still set at 10 degrees BTDC but I don't remember having removed the vacuum advance hose when checking that).
The manifold vacuum is showing exactly 20 inches mercury at idle speed (with fairly steady needle).
I replaced the factory chrome air cleaner (don't have the pie tin). The idle seems to have smoothed out some since the initial/first fire-up.
The sail panel courtesy lights and rear tail lights are driving me batty. They only work when THEY want to. Over and over again I go to track down the short or grounding problem when they begin working again. I even caught them going back on themselves when I was standing some distance from the vehicle and obviously the vehicle was perfectly still at the time.
Instrument dash lights and turn signal indicator arrow are not working. However, the little bulb for the console automatic shift indicator is working. They are on the same circuit, so that seems a little strange.
Ammeter has been bypassed, the oil pressure warning light was replaced by mechanical gauge so the warning light sensor has been omitted for now. The factory coolant sensor and fuel gauge sensor are wired up but apparently not registering (we have a mechanical coolant gauge installed and working as a back-up). The instrument cluster voltage regulator was replaced with aftermarket electronic unit (but not sure if it's making proper contact with the factory circuit board though).
I have a kit to convert the factory Formula S tachometer over to electronics, but have not swapped the old parts out yet.
Still no exhaust system (head pipes only). Need to flare out the ends of some of the TTI dual exhaust system (which is now ten years old) so things will slide together easily once more.
The exhaust manifolds (painted with high heat silver) have not really smoked or smelled the few times I have warmed up the engine to operating temperature (running 190-200 at idle). Maybe that is because they were painted many months ago and the paint has "cured" over time. Just guessing about that.
After having added an extra leaf spring on both sides I found the rear suspension would not budge an inch. Something happened with all the moving around lately and now I find I can push down and get some movement on the rear. It's stiffer now then the front suspension and must be sitting a little higher than before.
The Rallye wheels have been painted a subtle dark color (graphite?) which I mentioned in previous posts. Front tires are Sears Guardsman P185/75R14 and rear Hankook P215/70R14.
After dodging so many speed bumps (they are common here in Mexico) it appears I jacked up the front torsion bars for more clearance some time ago. I will leave that attitude just the way it is (for now).
Update: More final checks. Lowered vehicle to driveway pavement and was able to back it into the garage under its own power. However, the next day, it would not budge. I pushed it back outside and warmed up the engine. The dipstick on the Torqueflite (in neutral) was wet only on the very tip. I added another quart of ATF and then it decided to shift into both "reverse" and "drive". It still may be a pint or so low.
I adjusted the carburetor using the two idle mixture screws along with the center idle air screw. Idle speed is fairly steady at 800 RPM
I found the dwell (we have single points) at idle speed (in neutral) was varying a little on the meter 27-30 degrees (initial timing is still set at 10 degrees BTDC but I don't remember having removed the vacuum advance hose when checking that).
The manifold vacuum is showing exactly 20 inches mercury at idle speed (with fairly steady needle).
I replaced the factory chrome air cleaner (don't have the pie tin). The idle seems to have smoothed out some since the initial/first fire-up.
The sail panel courtesy lights and rear tail lights are driving me batty. They only work when THEY want to. Over and over again I go to track down the short or grounding problem when they begin working again. I even caught them going back on themselves when I was standing some distance from the vehicle and obviously the vehicle was perfectly still at the time.
Instrument dash lights and turn signal indicator arrow are not working. However, the little bulb for the console automatic shift indicator is working. They are on the same circuit, so that seems a little strange.
Ammeter has been bypassed, the oil pressure warning light was replaced by mechanical gauge so the warning light sensor has been omitted for now. The factory coolant sensor and fuel gauge sensor are wired up but apparently not registering (we have a mechanical coolant gauge installed and working as a back-up). The instrument cluster voltage regulator was replaced with aftermarket electronic unit (but not sure if it's making proper contact with the factory circuit board though).
I have a kit to convert the factory Formula S tachometer over to electronics, but have not swapped the old parts out yet.
Still no exhaust system (head pipes only). Need to flare out the ends of some of the TTI dual exhaust system (which is now ten years old) so things will slide together easily once more.
The exhaust manifolds (painted with high heat silver) have not really smoked or smelled the few times I have warmed up the engine to operating temperature (running 190-200 at idle). Maybe that is because they were painted many months ago and the paint has "cured" over time. Just guessing about that.
After having added an extra leaf spring on both sides I found the rear suspension would not budge an inch. Something happened with all the moving around lately and now I find I can push down and get some movement on the rear. It's stiffer now then the front suspension and must be sitting a little higher than before.
The Rallye wheels have been painted a subtle dark color (graphite?) which I mentioned in previous posts. Front tires are Sears Guardsman P185/75R14 and rear Hankook P215/70R14.
After dodging so many speed bumps (they are common here in Mexico) it appears I jacked up the front torsion bars for more clearance some time ago. I will leave that attitude just the way it is (for now).
