Anything Wrong With this '65 Dash Circuit Board?

What I know about the aftermarket boards is not exactly derogatory. If you look closely at the female terminals in the harness connector, they aren't round. They are oval. So the electircal contact/path is along 2 small lines of a fairly long male pin on the OEM board. Aftermarket does solder their pins to the trace on the board but their pins are shorter. I know there isn't a lot of current or contact required here. I do know that where the pin is soldered to the trace removing the female connector could remove the pin and peel the trace off the board with it. I've seen that. I already stated that I did add solder on OEM boards. I made sure that every pin was well secured to the board. Having said all that, the OEM board was good for many years. The replacement board likely is also. They know their shorter male pin can't be as well adhered to the female. That harness connector should pull off without removing the male pins.
Anyway... Only pins that are necessary are the lights. Contact pins for gauges, solid state regulator etc.., can be replaced with ring terminals, like violet wire on the temp gauge, dk blue on the fuel gauge. The limiter or solid state regulator doesn't need to be on the back of the inst' panel either. It can be anywhere under the dash. This just requires more wire and more time to assemble. I hope that sheds light on how/why it is how it is. Some models/panels, E-body for example don't have a printed circuit board. everything is wired direct as if it was a aftermarket or homemade inst' panel.
It's all about your coins really. If you dont have loose male pins, if you will use a soldering pen, other tools, and materials later on, renew the board you have can be the lower cost route.