Rebuild 904 or swap for 727?

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Bob Wilkie

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I am finally getting around to getting the Dart back on the road. I pulled the 318 and 904 and driveshaft. I have a 1989 360 roller block with 308 heads that will get built for the car. The Ford 9 inch under it now will be rebuilt too. This will be a street muscle car, not a daily and not a drag race car. I have questions:

What internals do you recommend for the 360 (not a stroker)?

Should I rebuild the 904 or swap it for a 727?
If I rebuild the 904, what would you recommend I tell the shop who rebuilds it to use or do?
What converter would you recommend?

Should I replace the smaller 7260 u-joints and re-use the driveshaft or replace it with a larger one and 7290 u-joints?
If replace, what do you recommend?
 
Keep the 904. That's a no brainer. It doesn't need anything exotic jus quality parts, good shift improver kit and someone who knows 904's.

As for the converter goes you'll need to be know the details of the engine and your intended use in order to pick the right one.
 
There is a lot there on the table, but I'll just start with the thread title and say stick with the 904. It can be built to your intended use. 727's are good, but 904's are smaller for better fitment, lighter as a whole and lighter internals making it slightly quicker.
 
If your going to spend the money, skip the 7290 Ujoints and go with 1350’s DrDiff has the slip yolk, pinion yolk and most drive line shops have the flang yolks for the drive line. Most of the 1500 and 2500 rams trucks are the 1350 yolks FYI and good for about 700HP.
 
Much less parasitic inertia with the 904 and more than a capable transmission. 65'
 
Both transmissions are more than capable. I'm a firm believer in using what you have, so just rebuild the 904. If it's already a good, functioning transmission; then there'll be no surprises during the rebuild- just treat it to good quality parts. Decide what you want for a valve body- if you want to retain the forward shift pattern or if you want to go reverse; and how aggressively you want it to shift. Any good performance trans man will have recommendations for that- plus if there's issues later, it's on him instead of something "you made him do"...
The convertor is going to depend on a combination of things- camshaft, rear gear ratio, tire size, projected operating rpm, etc. Talk to your preferred convertor manufacturer and they will set you up with what you need. Use the B&M 10239 flexplate to utilize common neutral balance convertors with your externally balanced 360 with the 904 transmission.
The size U joint you use depends on the HP you'll be putting through them- if over 300-350 horse I'd definitely consider upgrading, especially if going with steep gears and big rear meats.
 
Use performance oriented bands & clutches (Not OEM) in the 904 with a good shift kit or valve body. 3.8 or 4.2 kickdown lever and a deep pan & cooler wouldn't hurt. Other stuff has been covered - 904 is a little quicker than a 727, all else being equal. If your transmisssssion guy really know 904's, you'll have the option of swapping in a 2.74 low gear set, but you may not really need it. Also, a good QUALITY 7260 u-joint, like Spicer, will serve you well. I ran their solid versions (factory lubed & sealed,no grease fittings) on my race car for years with no issues. I haven't heard of anyone saying that they aren't recommended for the street. I wouldn't recommend a valve body without low gear braking on the street
 
I put a 904 behind a 408 Six Pack. That kinda tells you how much I trust a 904.
 
Old thread I know. But the actual amount of "parasitic drag" in a 727 amounts to less than 1/4 second in the quarter mile. The reason people believe the bigger transmissions have so much drag (chevy, ford, mopar) is because when the 904 is swapped out for a 727, the original 727 converter is used, and it usually has a lower stall. Then they don't have the kickdown set up and adjusted properly (thinking they'll just shift it manually) but it shifts too soft and the shifts are longer without the kd right. And good luck finding somebody who can do a performance build on a 904; much less any automatic. They throw a kit in it and call it good. And don't get me started on these "performance" trannys for $2k and up; most only have four direct frictions. Chock full of their own trick (expensive) specialty parts. The weak point on ALL the old three speed automatics is third gear.
 
Old thread I know. But the actual amount of "parasitic drag" in a 727 amounts to less than 1/4 second in the quarter mile. The reason people believe the bigger transmissions have so much drag (chevy, ford, mopar) is because when the 904 is swapped out for a 727, the original 727 converter is used, and it usually has a lower stall. Then they don't have the kickdown set up and adjusted properly (thinking they'll just shift it manually) but it shifts too soft and the shifts are longer without the kd right. And good luck finding somebody who can do a performance build on a 904; much less any automatic. They throw a kit in it and call it good. And don't get me started on these "performance" trannys for $2k and up; most only have four direct frictions. Chock full of their own trick (expensive) specialty parts. The weak point on ALL the old three speed automatics is third gear.
Not disagreeing with this post, but after you get to a certain performance level, 1/4 of a second is huge. You could spend a lot of money trying to get 2.5 tenths.
What do you mean by third gear is weak?
 
B and m advertises their 904 kit (competetively priced) to make the. Tranny handle 500 hp
Built right it will handle more than that. Strictly from a drag racing perspective the 904 internals and design are very popular. Pro trans put 904 internals in a 727 case. Afaik ati and pro trans are developing a turbo 350 aftermarket Sfi case that will use 904 internals. Why is that ?
 
Old thread I know. But the actual amount of "parasitic drag" in a 727 amounts to less than 1/4 second in the quarter mile. The reason people believe the bigger transmissions have so much drag (chevy, ford, mopar) is because when the 904 is swapped out for a 727, the original 727 converter is used, and it usually has a lower stall. Then they don't have the kickdown set up and adjusted properly (thinking they'll just shift it manually) but it shifts too soft and the shifts are longer without the kd right. And good luck finding somebody who can do a performance build on a 904; much less any automatic. They throw a kit in it and call it good. And don't get me started on these "performance" trannys for $2k and up; most only have four direct frictions. Chock full of their own trick (expensive) specialty parts. The weak point on ALL the old three speed automatics is third gear.

I am disagreeing with the post!

Chrysler did back-to-back testing in the '70 and when both 727 and 904 were built to the same level and converters were configured the same, the ET difference was about .15, which is still a lot when looking for ET in a restricted class racing environment.

* The original 727 converter can not be used in a 904. Even if it could be, it wouldn't affect the stall/flash.
* If the kick'down and automatic featured are retained, they simply "should" be adjusted properly. If somebody doesn't do it right, it's not the transmission's fault. But most race cars use a RMVB.
* 904's don't blow up like a 727 when the sprag gets damaged, improper burnout, driveline breakage, etc.. That's a big benefit right there.
* There are obviously many people who can build a good 904. Aftermarket internals are even put into 727's behind Hemi's & big blocks.
* While some of the specialty $2K 904's get the job done. A lot of the price goes into aftermarket parts and lighter weight. Often some durability is sacrifices for a few more hundredths of ET. The trans just needs to be rebuilt more often. That's the racers choice.
 
Um, ok, you say .15...I already said 1/4...which is .25...you're condemning the swap LESS than I am. A 727 converter in a 904? Get real. Bolt in 727 sprags are about $150..."big benefit"?? If you're building a car for the track and you really really need that extra .15 of a second then you are not my customer. Go ahead and buy the $3k tranny; pay somebody to put it in; and might as well pay somebody to do everything else on your car; but not many on here can roll like that.
 
Um, ok, you say .15...I already said 1/4...which is .25...you're condemning the swap LESS than I am. A 727 converter in a 904? Get real. Bolt in 727 sprags are about $150..."big benefit"?? If you're building a car for the track and you really really need that extra .15 of a second then you are not my customer. Go ahead and buy the $3k tranny; pay somebody to put it in; and might as well pay somebody to do everything else on your car; but not many on here can roll like that.
I think locomotion misunderstood your previous post. I had to read it twice as well. Your saying that during the swap to a 727, that the customer uses the stock 727 converter that has a lower stall than a stock 904 correct?
 
I'm not sure exactly what it is that you're trying to get me to say this time, but I don't see any need to repeat myself. Feel free to read into it whatever you want and create your own narrative from there; very entertaining.
 
I'm not sure exactly what it is that you're trying to get me to say this time, but I don't see any need to repeat myself. Feel free to read into it whatever you want and create your own narrative from there; very entertaining.
Locomotion thinks that you said that a727 converter fits in a 904, but you did not say that.
 
The reason people believe the bigger transmissions have so much drag (chevy, ford, mopar) is because when the 904 is swapped out for a 727, the original 727 converter is used, and it usually has a lower stall.

Still not sure if he's for or against the 904 because to me it appears to be more of a rant rather than a contributing opinion. But I do see my mistake. That's the first time I heard of that "theory" or assumption about the converter. Just one of the statements that appear to assume that many car enthusiasts, as well as established transmission builders are dummies!

As for spending money on $3k transmissions (they must have gone up $1k since yesterday's post) as well as other parts & labor on my cars.....another not fully researched statement. My 904's have a standard race rebuild, nothing exotic, only what I needed. I'm one of many that have shown that you don't have to have the fastest car or most money to win championships.
 
Still not sure if he's for or against the 904 because to me it appears to be more of a rant rather than a contributing opinion. But I do see my mistake. That's the first time I heard of that "theory" or assumption about the converter. Just one of the statements that appear to assume that many car enthusiasts, as well as established transmission builders are dummies!

As for spending money on $3k transmissions (they must have gone up $1k since yesterday's post) as well as other parts & labor on my cars.....another not fully researched statement. My 904's have a standard race rebuild, nothing exotic, only what I needed. I'm one of many that have shown that you don't have to have the fastest car or most money to win championships.
I agree, I am just giving him credit where it's due.
He did not say that about the converter. But he is saying he builds 727,s for 1,000 horse cars all the time without saying what they cost or what's inside them or what's not inside them.
A good 8 inch converter, a good manual valve body, and an aftermarket drum is well over $2,000.00. Nothing fancy there.
Winning with a slower low budget car is what NHRA is all about
Mopower to ya. I ditched my 727 years ago for a 999 and never went back. My stock w2 340 back in the day came alive with that 2.74 low gear set and it was 1/2 second faster ymmv.
 
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The 904 fans defend their tranny vehemently, but 727 guys generally just keep their mouth shut. The 727 is the trans that is consistently tested behind thousands of horsepower. Rarely do you see a 904 in that position. WHY? BECAUSE THEY DON'T FIT A BIG BLOCK. Catastrophic breakage in a 727 is common because they are subjected to twice the horsepower than the 904; and on a regular basis. Is a hemi owner going to try a 904 behind his 1,200 horse motor? He would laugh you off the track. If you wanna feel good about your lil 904, then more power to ya, but they're just like C4s; builders love them cuz they're making money off them; not cuz they're good transmissions. Builders can't make the big bucks off a 727 cuz they're just aren't enough customers. I myself have a built 904 behind a mild 360 in my 66 Dart, but if I had a 408 I'd modify the floor and firewall and run a 727. Running a 904 to get an extra fifth of a second in the quarter is the only good reason; otherwise you're just buying into the scam and spending a ton of money on something that will never be comparable to a 727. The folks who understand this won't chime in cuz they don't want to be attacked (and misquoted) by the fanatical horde. Do yourself a favor, don't buy into the 904 hype and just run a 727 if you can.
 
The 904 fans defend their tranny vehemently, but 727 guys generally just keep their mouth shut. The 727 is the trans that is consistently tested behind thousands of horsepower. Rarely do you see a 904 in that position. WHY? BECAUSE THEY DON'T FIT A BIG BLOCK. Catastrophic breakage in a 727 is common because they are subjected to twice the horsepower than the 904; and on a regular basis. Is a hemi owner going to try a 904 behind his 1,200 horse motor? He would laugh you off the track. If you wanna feel good about your lil 904, then more power to ya, but they're just like C4s; builders love them cuz they're making money off them; not cuz they're good transmissions. Builders can't make the big bucks off a 727 cuz they're just aren't enough customers. I myself have a built 904 behind a mild 360 in my 66 Dart, but if I had a 408 I'd modify the floor and firewall and run a 727. Running a 904 to get an extra fifth of a second in the quarter is the only good reason; otherwise you're just buying into the scam and spending a ton of money on something that will never be comparable to a 727. The folks who understand this won't chime in cuz they don't want to be attacked (and misquoted) by the fanatical horde. Do yourself a favor, don't buy into the 904 hype and just run a 727 if you can.
I don't think you are reading some of the other posts.
It was already said that Pro trans specializes in installing 904 internals in 727 cases that fit big blocks. They do it all the time.
But those trans don't need to last 100,000 miles either. But in most applications they are not breaking all the time either.
In an interview on YouTube with Leah Pritchett who drives a high 6 second challenger she was asked why they are using a turbo 400 trans in a dodge. Her answer was there is no Sfi 727 case that can reliably take that much horsepower.
No one has disputed that a 727 is not stronger and more durable, no one. It is you that continues to make statements that defy logic
That a heavier transmission can go just as fast in the quarter mile as one that is much lighter all other things being equal. It can't.
Weight slows things down, whether it's spinning wheels, tubes in your slicks, a heavier car, or yes a heavier transmission.
The 904 internal parts are very popular in a pro trans 727 and soon a turbo 350 because the design walks the fine line between lightweight and reasonable strength. You can never build a fast car overbuilding everything with brute strength excessively heavy parts.
Roller clutch failure and the subsequent possible drum explosions
Are not necessarily caused by horsepower. The ones I have seen have almost all been relatively low powered cars doing there burnout in first gear. Misuse. Improper valve body.
In a very popular 727 book written by Carl Monroe, it states that a stock 727 case is reliable till about 800 horse. Are there guys who put more through them sure, but they are probably very light cars.
1200 horse cars usually have aftermarket turbo 400 cases that can reliably take that kind of power. So again I say build a trans for its intended use. No performance 727 should use a stock drum.
It's not a weakness, it's the material that Chrysler made those drum from and weight of them that causes them to explode when revved past there design limitation. So again how can you build a 727 for 1,000 hp reliably and safely for say $500.00. You can't.
The 904 is plenty strong for the average guy.
 
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"No performance 727 should use a stock drum"...that's just ridiculous. And you yourself state that the 727 sprag is only weak under misuse. You talk about the 904 being good enough for the average guy, but in the same post condemn the 727 for parasitic loss, even tho the difference in the quarter mile is .15 of a second. If you can afford an extra $2-3k to gain .15 of a second in the quarter mile, then you are in a distinct minority as far a I'm concerned; and I don't care about your car. I'm on here to encourage home builders to work on their own transmissions; rebuild them, repair them, shift kits, whatever. The problem is that if you make a slight mistake in your rebuild, a 727 is much more forgiving than a 904. The 727 can take more overrlap and slippage than a 904. If your kickdown is out of adjustment, a 904 will fry ten times faster than a 727. And hey, a weak clutch pack is considered a weakness in the real world.
 
"No performance 727 should use a stock drum"...that's just ridiculous. And you yourself state that the 727 sprag is only weak under misuse. You talk about the 904 being good enough for the average guy, but in the same post condemn the 727 for parasitic loss, even tho the difference in the quarter mile is .15 of a second. If you can afford an extra $2-3k to gain .15 of a second in the quarter mile, then you are in a distinct minority as far a I'm concerned; and I don't care about your car. I'm on here to encourage home builders to work on their own transmissions; rebuild them, repair them, shift kits, whatever. The problem is that if you make a slight mistake in your rebuild, a 727 is much more forgiving than a 904. The 727 can take more overrlap and slippage than a 904. If your kickdown is out of adjustment, a 904 will fry ten times faster than a 727. And hey, a weak clutch pack is considered a weakness in the real world.
No performance 727 should use a stock drum, that's just rediculous?
See pic, do you value your legs, or your car or your life? Apparently you don't even care about your customers well being.
904s don't do this.
727 sprags are weak under misuse "or improper valve body" or "first gear burnouts, please read the entire post. The 727 sprag uses an inferior
Retention method compared to the 904, rectified with bolt in sprag.
No one condemned the 727 for its parasitic losses. My Cummins diesel needs a 727 and a stock one still isn't quite strong enough.
If you have an 11 second car with a 727 and you wanted a 10 second car, you need to gain small amounts of et wherever you can get them, more compression, more cam, lighter car oh and a lighter trans. I,ll take that .15.
Only you have said that it costs 2-3k(which is it) to gain .15
It does not have to cost anywhere near that.
What was said, is that if you built both trans identically built( identical junkyard builds for example, identical, the 904(no low gear) identical, will be .15 faster
Now as locomotion has said to you the big dollar trans cost this much because they contain all lightweight components.
Light sunshell, aluminum drums aluminum parking gear, rollerized components. A trans like this will gain way more than .15
My dart gained .5 yes .5 with an aluminum drum, 2.74 1st gear and light sun-shell versus a 2.45 727 all steel with a similar converter.
But to be fair, you could buy these same components for a 727, but it will still be heavier. And not every car needs these kinds of parts.
This is not a condemnation of the 727. It's just not the best choice for certain applications.
I don't care about your car either, such pleasantries.
I have built a w2 410 high compression small block.i will still use
My 904. Stroker small blocks with 904s are all over the place at drag strips. The only areas of weakness that I upgraded were I went to an aftermarket input shaft and an aftermarket 30 roller sprag.
I would like to think that most members on here share a common passion, and we are all here to help each other. You are really full of yourself if you think your the only one. You know that you and I both helped a member on here do his very first rebuild last year.
A band adjustment is performed the same way on a 904 as it is on a 727. Clutch pack clearances as well. That argument doesn't fly.
You either know what your doing or you don't.
Regarding shift overlap, the 904 is unique with that problem because of the front drum stock return spring. At high rpm it causes
Major shift overlap compared to a stock 727. This is easily rectified
With the aftermarket multi spring pak. I through in a pic of a blown up Chevy as well.

image.png


image.png
 
It's not my job to care about my customers' well-being. IF they want to play it safe, then buy a volvo with the extra side air bags. I'm here to help make their car a very dangerous piece of transportation from one stop light to the next. If they die, they die; as long as their transmission doesn't die. You're showing pics of 727s that were destroyed by god knows what; but pretty sure it was a lot more power than what 99% of small blocks put out. Too bad chrysler never put the 904 behind bbs so we could have a realistic historical comparison. Why spend money on a hardened 904 input shaft? and don't forget that when you want the right return springs on your 904 direct drum; that you can find somebody who knows wth you are even talking about. Most guys that come to me are just glad they found somebody who knows ANYTHING about performance TFs, and isn't trying to "upgrade" their own wallet. You know tons about these trannys, but most of it doesn't apply to 95% of the dudes on here who just want a weekend warrior.
 
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