Let's settle this once and for all..

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MOPAROFFICIAL

Oogliboogli
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No more confusion.
1984 318 roller block.
I didn't seal mine and had no issues, but you really should seal them.
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Are you talking about the holes under the exhaust ports?
I just cleaned mine really good and used a zap from the mig welder to seal mine and it worked flawlessly.
It only took about 10 minutes for the whole job including a quick pass with the air sander to level it off.
It was like filling in a spot weld hole in sheet metal.
For those people that will say ''You can't weld cast iron with a mig'', I am a journeyman welder and just quickly filling that hole won't matter, it's for sealing and not for strength.
The small area between the outside where it was welded and the inner port will fill up with carbon in no time anyway, there is no need to be elaborate and over think the small hole in the port will cause turbulence.
A lot of them were filled with carbon over the years and were plugged anyway, that's why some times you can get away without plugging them from the outside.
That's what I think happened in your case..........
 
Are you talking about the holes under the exhaust ports?
I just cleaned mine really good and used a zap from the mig welder to seal mine and it worked flawlessly.
It only took about 10 minutes for the whole job including a quick pass with the air sander to level it off.
It was like filling in a spot weld hole in sheet metal.
For those people that will say ''You can't weld cast iron with a mig'', I am a journeyman welder and just quickly filling that hole won't matter, it's for sealing and not for strength.
The small area between the outside where it was welded and the inner port will fill up with carbon in no time anyway, there is no need to be elaborate and over think the small hole in the port will cause turbulence.
A lot of them were filled with carbon over the years and were plugged anyway, that's why some times you can get away without plugging them from the outside.
That's what I think happened in your case..........
Are you reading the tag?
What does it say. Tell us.. :eek:
 
Is that intake port on the left stock just below the seat or ported? Decent size bowl.
 
Like the unshrouding. Nice work. And yeah, I've used RTV on every single head bolt I've installed since I was 16 years old. Was taught that by the old gentleman that taught us in auto shop and have done it ever since. Nice to see it in print.
 
Is that intake port on the left stock just below the seat or ported? Decent size bowl.
It's not as large as it looks in the pic. However they all are about the same. 302 heads have less vertical off the ssr, less beef. They quickly become work.
Aside from the cracking/core shift.. they are a decent head FOR MODIFYING.
'As cast' they offer less flow and less ease of picking up flow than all others.
No.1 ...Chamber is in the way. You wont get anywhere till you blend that chamber. All common knowledge y now I'm sure.
I'm doing a video part series on them. Stock flow as is, 4 angle vj and chamber deshroud, then ported, then all that aaand a 1.88 worked in. The difference between a set of 75,60,45,30 seat angles and a deshroud vs stock is 19-25cfm across the range per .100
That's a ton.
 
When I posted, there was only the top picture.
So I thought it was about the port holes.
My bad.
Sorry for the confusion.:eek:
Lol no big. that's why I thought I'd ask you again to look. :D I've known of folks drilling into those exh holes though the next size maybe 1/4 deep to make an inner ledge and hammering a small lead fishing weight then peening over the outer edge of the hole so they stay put. Drilling, tapping, set screwing is the most popular way though.



BUT... I did find out that if you fill the hole with clay, flush, as if the hole weren't there..the flow picks up a ton. Its sickening.
What happens is , well.. just blow into a cup and see what the air does. Crash and reverse. Makes it's own wall blocking the air its detour path. So to fix that one way to do it...would be to tap all the way 'maybe 98% down' to the ssr.. then you would want to knock down the 1st 4 threads from the tip to clear all threads and end up protruding at the bottom ssr side exit. You'd want it to jam in tight also and would be using red or industrial lock tite.
Then you could grind the nose down on the set screw to the rest of the turn.
Now I wonder if you could manufacture a short turn cap that had a hole at the top of its ramp...like right where the air port is on the floor of course.. if a really long tungsten set screw with threadless nose 'forgot the term' could be used as an anchor. Push cap onto nose of set screw and weld. Blending required. Sounds out there, but the floor is so bad, a bird could **** in it and it would flow more air. I have put clay in the floor making it even from the high side to the low side and done nothing else and at 400 lift it flowed 196cfm.
 
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Lol no big. that's why I thought I'd ask you again to look. :D I've known of folks drilling into those exh holes though the next size maybe 1/4 deep to make an inner ledge and hammering a small lead fishing weight then peening over the outer edge of the hole so they stay put. Drilling, tapping, set screwing is the most popular way though.



BUT... I did find out that if you fill the hole with clay, flush, as if the hole weren't there..the flow picks up a ton. Its sickening.
What happens is , well.. just blow into a cup and see what the air does. Crash and reverse. Makes it's own wall blocking the air its detour path. So to fix that one way to do it...would be to tap all the way 'maybe 98% down' to the ssr.. then you would want to knock down the 1st 4 threads from the tip to clear all threads and end up protruding at the bottom ssr side exit. You'd want it to jam in tight also and would be using red or industrial lock tite.
Then you could grind the nose down on the set screw to the rest of the turn.
Now I wonder if you could manufacture a short turn cap that had a hole at the top of its ramp...like right where the air port is on the floor of course.. if a really long tungsten set screw with threadless nose 'forgot the term' could be used as an anchor. Push cap onto nose of set screw and weld. Blending required. Sounds out there, but the floor is so bad, a bird could **** in it and it would flow more air. I have put clay in the floor making it even from the high side to the low side and done nothing else and at 400 lift it flowed 196cfm.
Thanks.
I never realized that the port holes could cause that much reversion.
About 25 years ago on a 318, I capped some holes with set screws after I tapped the holes and after about 1000 miles, the holes on the inside port area was perfectly filled up with carbon and smooth with the port so you had to look hard to see that there was a hole there in the first place.
But your way makes a lot of sense too.
There's a lot of ways to plug those holes if you put your mind to it, like pouring melted down lead weights into them and then use a die grinder to smooth them out to a steel rod or nail the right size as the hole to plug it and then use the die grinder to finish it off comes to mind.........
 
will the sealnt keep them from having that gear oil smell when ya take the engine apart? gear oil always smelt like a dogs a hole....
 
will the sealnt keep them from having that gear oil smell when ya take the engine apart? gear oil always smelt like a dogs a hole....
You know what a dog's a-hole smells like? I don't think I wouldda admitted all that, yo.
 
It's not as large as it looks in the pic. However they all are about the same. 302 heads have less vertical off the ssr, less beef. They quickly become work.
Aside from the cracking/core shift.. they are a decent head FOR MODIFYING.
'As cast' they offer less flow and less ease of picking up flow than all others.
No.1 ...Chamber is in the way. You wont get anywhere till you blend that chamber. All common knowledge y now I'm sure.
I'm doing a video part series on them. Stock flow as is, 4 angle vj and chamber deshroud, then ported, then all that aaand a 1.88 worked in. The difference between a set of 75,60,45,30 seat angles and a deshroud vs stock is 19-25cfm across the range per .100
That's a ton.

Is your video done? Can you post a link?
 
Is this a magnum engine issue or LA also? I never had a problem on the LA weeping from head bolts. It is an issue on the intake bolts and they are guaranteed to dump oil on your intake if you don't seal them.
 
That’s really the point of where you use the sealant. The other bolts under the valve cover are not really important to seal like that. A plus maybe, but on the intake side, it’s an oil loss on top of the intake. It’ll stain and smoke. If it’s really bad, it’ll hit the floor.
 
Is your video done? Can you post a link?
I did 2. One flows stock as cast, the other shows flowed with 5 angle vj and deshroud near short turn. Low quality quickly made after work type of videos. I spent time on the 2nd only to delete it by accident and ended up doing a 3rd to replace it.
3rd is on the way. That one will focus on the porting. Then the last one will be the use of a 1.88, 4 or 5 angle vj, chamber deshroud and porting.

 
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Lol no big. that's why I thought I'd ask you again to look. :D I've known of folks drilling into those exh holes though the next size maybe 1/4 deep to make an inner ledge and hammering a small lead fishing weight then peening over the outer edge of the hole so they stay put. Drilling, tapping, set screwing is the most popular way though.



BUT... I did find out that if you fill the hole with clay, flush, as if the hole weren't there..the flow picks up a ton. Its sickening.
What happens is , well.. just blow into a cup and see what the air does. Crash and reverse. Makes it's own wall blocking the air its detour path. So to fix that one way to do it...would be to tap all the way 'maybe 98% down' to the ssr.. then you would want to knock down the 1st 4 threads from the tip to clear all threads and end up protruding at the bottom ssr side exit. You'd want it to jam in tight also and would be using red or industrial lock tite.
Then you could grind the nose down on the set screw to the rest of the turn.
Now I wonder if you could manufacture a short turn cap that had a hole at the top of its ramp...like right where the air port is on the floor of course.. if a really long tungsten set screw with threadless nose 'forgot the term' could be used as an anchor. Push cap onto nose of set screw and weld. Blending required. Sounds out there, but the floor is so bad, a bird could **** in it and it would flow more air. I have put clay in the floor making it even from the high side to the low side and done nothing else and at 400 lift it flowed 196cfm.

Factory hole is about .200 diameter. Perfect tap drill for .250-20 is #7 (.207 dia) so that is easy to do. Maybe tap to a certain depth to get the tip out flush Here is a 1/4-20 dog point set screw that might fit the bill. I saw an old article about making a C port from LA head exhaust port to get good flow, from Keith Black.

McMaster-Carr
 
Another Mopar "myth" busted, so to say!! Seems like back when I first joined this board 302's were "a thing"
 
Wow! A face to the name!
Excellent!

A little hard to hear you but good enough for today.
We all posted our faces in the thread show your face . Someone wanted to see who had balls to show who they were behind the screen name. Did you not see that thread?
 
Another Mopar "myth" busted, so to say!! Seems like back when I first joined this board 302's were "a thing"
I remember! Though I always knew they didn’t do great as cast. Ported! On the other hand is supposed to be excellent.

We all posted our faces in the thread show your face . Someone wanted to see who had balls to show who they were behind the screen name. Did you not see that thread?
I did but did not remember yours.
 
Another Mopar "myth" busted, so to say!! Seems like back when I first joined this board 302's were "a thing"

302 heads reputation came from a Mopar Performance build where they built a 9:1 318 using a .450 lift cam and started with 360 heads for about 275 hp. Then they swapped the 360 heads for some ported 360 heads for +30 hp making about 305 hp. Finally they swapped the 360 ported heads for some ported 302 heads and went from +30 to +55 hp. I heard here that those heads were ported so far, that they did not last the dyno session. So with 330 hp from a 9:1 318 the ported 302 heads became the thing to have. As we can see here, nonported 302's not so much.
 
302's have a small cc, great for a 273 or a low comp 318 upgrade
 
302's have a small cc, great for a 273 or a low comp 318 upgrade

302 heads on a 273 are a down grade, the chambers are the same size and you loose about 20 cfm in air flow. Also you loose up to to 50 cfm in airflow compared to X and J heads. Plus you can mill any heads for smaller chambers or buy the pistons required for your intended compression ratio.
 
302 heads reputation came from a Mopar Performance build where they built a 9:1 318 using a .450 lift cam and started with 360 heads for about 275 hp. Then they swapped the 360 heads for some ported 360 heads for +30 hp making about 305 hp. Finally they swapped the 360 ported heads for some ported 302 heads and went from +30 to +55 hp. I heard here that those heads were ported so far, that they did not last the dyno session. So with 330 hp from a 9:1 318 the ported 302 heads became the thing to have. As we can see here, nonported 302's not so much.
was a hotrod artical,..was a 318.... it made 400 hp,...delucha(spelling??) ported them and yes that become a sprinkler system on the dyno...junkyard jewel
 
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