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Johnny71dusty

Johnny71dusty

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I have a nice A833 trans I got and was told it was from a duster and it’s not. Ugh but I have this b body a833 trans can I just put it in my duster and have a drive shaft cut ?
 
I don't remember but isn't the shifter mount pad an issue of its placement for an A body car?
 
Scody21 said:
Yes. Should check pinion angle if you go this route.
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Can’t be all that different. Parallel To Frame it will be same but shafts needs to be little shorter

52CC93B2-AADB-44A3-A486-BD5C59B1E55B.png
 
Johnny71dusty said:
Can’t be all that different. Parallel To Frame it will be same but shafts needs to be little shorter

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That’s what she said. “The extra inch does not matter...” :rofl:

Said check, if it’s in range cool. If not you’ll feel it. I feel it in my car when the non Gear vendor trans is in, vs when it is in. As my pinion was set for the GV setup, which is the B body tail, + OD unit and short drive shaft.
 
Isn't that funny, i thought the b mount would be behind the a body mount. The driveline is one thing but placing the shifter where that looks might be a problem. Maybe swaping tail housing or create a mount adaptation to move it back. I'd vote for the tail
 
Well it IS a big deal. What you really need is a 70/ later B/C/E gearbox which has the rear "E" mount pad "BigBlockDart" has a tech page on how this goes It is not just an "easy fix" as the internet says

B/E body four-speed in an A-body
 
I know at one time I read somewhere that you can make an adapter for the B body shifter mount that places it in the A body position. I will see if I can find it. But it has been done.
 
I have a B/E body tail in my 68 Barracuda.
If your tail has two pads, the front one will have to be partially ground off because it hits the T-bar crossmember before being high enough to sit on the crossmember. So that leaves the rear pad; which is NOT in the A-body position, and so the shifter will not come thru the floor in the factory position.
And so you will have to figure out where you want to put your shifter, then fabricate a shifter mounting plate, to make that happen.. And you will have to mount it all in such a way that it cannot move when you start banging gears.
After that, if not in the factory position, you will have to fabricate shift-rods to fit.
After that, you may have to re-engineer the trans mount just a lil.
The driveshaft is easy peasy, but there goes the best part of $300.
All in all, I think I would have to be pretty broke not to chase down the right trans.
BTW-1
I also have a GVod, since 2004. And at that time, they only had a B/E aluminum adapter. So that is why I have it. Cutting aluminum is quick and easy.
BTW-2
I haven't looked at single pad long tails so I can't speak to those. But looking at the pic in post #4, that one won't work, without major surgery. You sorta gotta have a rear pad.
 
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toolmanmike said:
What kind of seats do you have. For obvious reasons the rear shifter location won't work with a bench seat or buckets with a console.
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The shifter location is closer to dash in b body a833 not closer to the bench seat / yes I want to keep my bench. To me I just need a bent style shifter : y’all tell me . I don’t mind buying a a body tail for it
 
Johnny71dusty said:
The shifter location is closer to dash in b body a833 not closer to the bench seat / yes I want to keep my bench. To me I just need a bent style shifter : y’all tell me . I don’t mind buying a a body tail for it
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It’s not that simple. Just can’t swap tail housing. You have to swap output shafts and tail housing. Can be done, but costs are a factor, could be cheaper to trade with someone...
 
Check the synchronizer assemblies in the trans you bought; maybe they are minty-new. If they were, then maybe you can buy somebodies A-body POS sausage grinder for cheap, and make one out of two?
 
Scody21 said:
It’s not that simple. Just can’t swap tail housing. You have to swap output shafts and tail housing. Can be done, but costs are a factor, could be cheaper to trade with someone...
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My thought was to leave B body tail on it . Our shift farther forward where I kinda want it. A body shifter put it right where my bench seat is. I think I’d rather it 2-3” closer to firewall . And get a drive shaft cut . Am I missing something ?
 
Johnny71dusty said:
My thought was to leave B body tail on it . Our shift farther forward where I kinda want it. A body shifter put it right where my bench seat is. I think I’d rather it 2-3” closer to firewall . And get a drive shaft cut . Am I missing something ?
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Seat position and shift handle position are a personal preference. And this depends on how your tunnel / 4 speed hump is. There is different bent shifter handles.
Browse by Category - Shifter Doc
Summit also has new handles.

If you look at the pic I posted, it’s just a flat steel plate with holes drilled for the tail housing to mount, and tapped holes for the shifter to mount. Uses stock A body shifter rods, and shifter placement through the hump. No mods to the floor were necessary. This would be the easiest. Then yes have the drive shaft cut, balanced and new Ujoints put in.

As a side note, Always put new Ujoints into a new unknown car you get. Don’t learn the hard way...
 
John, can i ask, you had a wanted add for a A230 today and stated you had a 903 in need of repair.
Do you have a bellhousing that will fit the A 833?
If you do, I'd test fit it in your car and figure what it will take to make it work. It may or may not be what you will be willing to do instead of finding a correct transmission. Just a thought.
 
Johnny71dusty said:
Am I missing something ?
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Yes you are;
that long-tail with the front pad will NOT fit into the tunnel of an A-body. That front pad interferes with the T-bar crossmember upper hoop, and a good part of it HAS to be ground off to get the trans high enough to fit on the un-moddified crossmember. Even if you got it in there, you still need over 2.5inches of room for the shifter. You cannot cut that crossmember out in it's entirety. I mean you could, and you could rebuild it 3 inches to the driver's side .......... but then where would you put the seat/seat tracks?
Forget about using the front B-body pad.
 
Stephen Mulkey said:
John, can i ask, you had a wanted add for a A230 today and stated you had a 903 in need of repair.
Do you have a bellhousing that will fit the A 833?
If you do, I'd test fit it in your car and figure what it will take to make it work. It may or may not be what you will be willing to do instead of finding a correct transmission. Just a thought.
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So yes all the above . My dad was a life long mopar guy alwsys had challengers .

I have 198 slant now with a903 , 3 on tree now that keeps gettin stuck in first. Giggling around linkage doesn’t fix it I have to disconnect it all and get it unstuck . I like the 3 on tree so I was thinking of buying a a230 and putting it right in and leaving 3 on tree . But then I met someone who sold me a833 today and said it was from a Dart or duster. So I buy it and take I home and realize it’s early B body with only front shifter plate. And looking at it and rough measurements I think I’d like the floor shifter 2-3” farther forward than where a a body one would be. I don’t care about fast clearly lol . I’m happy to leave the 198 but I need a Better trans and can’t find a 903 or a 230 in last few months of looking.
 
AJ/FormS said:
Yes you are;
that long-tail with the front pad will NOT fit into the tunnel of an A-body. That front pad interferes with the T-bar crossmember upper hoop, and a good part of it HAS to be ground off to get the trans high enough to fit on the un-moddified crossmember. Even if you got it in there, you still need over 2.5inches of room for the shifter. You cannot cut that crossmember out in it's entirety. I mean you could, and you could rebuild it 3 inches to the driver's side .......... but then where would you put the seat/seat tracks?
Forget about using the front B-body pad.
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Hmmm well I was liking the farther forward b body shift position. I just want a decently reliable trans for this damn car
 
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