Speed master LA heads

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The parts used are pretty much crap....cheap Chinese pieces.

You will likely have to hone the guides to size. And grind the seats.

Buy some quality valves, springs etc. if you plan on driving the car.
They're perfect in my car with a stroker motor right out of the box... I've yet to hear of anybody who's had a problem with them...
 
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They're perfect in my car with a stroker motor right out of the box... I've yet to hear of anybody who's had a problem with them...
I liked the set I bought (but sold for TF’s instead:realcrazy:) so much that we bought another set for my sons 360 we’re building now. They actually are getting installed, not sold!:lol:
 
The 318 is the original engine and I already got the machine work done on the block with new pistons etc. in it. Otherwise I would have went with a new hemi.
 
What would/does concern me most with assembled from China is the valve spring quality. No way of checking by looking at them. Might have to wait until you get valve float because they lost tension....
 
There is something that I do not understand. Old Kimmer says that those big port alloy heads are no good for a 318.It appears that he says they are to big for a 318! I have a 318 bored 40 thou so 326 cu ins. That is fouteen cu ins less than a 340 . But they are great for a 340? My 318 (326) has my ported heads off my 410 after I put my Trick flows on my 410. They have 2.05 inlet valves in them and the car has 2.93 diff and real tight std converter and weighs about 3600 lbs. It does not go crazy with wheelspin but is very responsive and goes really hard mid range and top end. Even the police package 318s had 360 large port heads on them so what is this they are no good for a 318?
 
Sounds like a bunch of “theory” or “speculation” and not much “actual” or “reality” being posted to me:rolleyes:
 
The old heads are lead heads I believe, I want the wait reduction too. They aren't worth dumping any money into so I wanted something more modern with the benefits of aluminum. It is a little more than a budget build too, but not radical. That is what the roadrunner is for. This is going to be a nicely powered street machine.
Good luck finding any new set of alloy heads now.
If you are seriously making the swap to alloy heads soon you best be looking for a used set.
 
Here's some reality I've had my set on for approaching5 years probably about 5000 Street miles . my camshaft is 241 at 50 and 500 lift hydraulic flat tap , I often turn my 340 past 6500 RPMs my head's were assembled by speedmaster with no problems valves are nice springs are decent but I will be changing them out in the near future with my cam change.
 
What would/does concern me most with assembled from China is the valve spring quality. No way of checking by looking at them. Might have to wait until you get valve float because they lost tension....
Cast in China... Machined, assembled here. No doubt with Chinese parts..
Had the springs checked and we're with in 5lb's each way of the matched Crower springs on my old heads.. No float, problem free operation... That's real world experience not speculation...
 
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There is something that I do not understand. Old Kimmer says that those big port alloy heads are no good for a 318.It appears that he says they are to big for a 318! I have a 318 bored 40 thou so 326 cu ins. That is fouteen cu ins less than a 340 . But they are great for a 340? My 318 (326) has my ported heads off my 410 after I put my Trick flows on my 410. They have 2.05 inlet valves in them and the car has 2.93 diff and real tight std converter and weighs about 3600 lbs. It does not go crazy with wheelspin but is very responsive and goes really hard mid range and top end. Even the police package 318s had 360 large port heads on them so what is this they are no good for a 318?

i think it comes down to the combination. slam a large port head on a stock 318 short block and end up with 7:1 compression vs. a fresh 318 short block with 2 or more points of compression. the results probably won't be the same.
 
Ported and as-cast.
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There is something that I do not understand. Old Kimmer says that those big port alloy heads are no good for a 318.It appears that he says they are to big for a 318! I have a 318 bored 40 thou so 326 cu ins. That is fouteen cu ins less than a 340 . But they are great for a 340? My 318 (326) has my ported heads off my 410 after I put my Trick flows on my 410. They have 2.05 inlet valves in them and the car has 2.93 diff and real tight std converter and weighs about 3600 lbs. It does not go crazy with wheelspin but is very responsive and goes really hard mid range and top end. Even the police package 318s had 360 large port heads on them so what is this they are no good for a 318?
Cast iron big port heads are the same size as small port aluminum heads. That’s why I recommend them over the cnc heads. A stock 318 has a small low compression piston which would be 8.0 -1 or so. Going to 10.0-1 will help but still way off if ideal. If your happy with that so be it. A 340 bore is a lot bigger and can take advantage of the bigger ports. Also stock it has a higher compression and bigger cam. Sure u can bet that there are.cnc heads on 318s running the streets of America. Today with the cost of machining aluminum heads are the best bang for the buck. Kim
 
Good luck finding any new set of alloy heads now.
If you are seriously making the swap to alloy heads soon you best be looking for a used set.
ProMaxx has a good supply I think. Got mine in about three weeks just like they said. That was earlier this summer. Another thing about the Speedmaster is that the geometry correction kits are breaking the rocker shaft stands because the stands are machined incorrectly unless maybe they have fixed that problem.
 
ProMaxx has a good supply I think. Got mine in about three weeks just like they said. That was earlier this summer. Another thing about the Speedmaster is that the geometry correction kits are breaking the rocker shaft stands because the stands are machined incorrectly unless maybe they have fixed that problem.
What did you pay for a set and what are the specs on the heads? I am looking for the smallest cc chamber I can get. I don't want anything over 65 but closer to 62 would be better. That is why I originally asked about the bare 62cc heads.
Can you tell me more about the geometry correction kit and stand issues? What exactly is the correction kit?
Thanks
 
What did you pay for a set and what are the specs on the heads? I am looking for the smallest cc chamber I can get. I don't want anything over 65 but closer to 62 would be better. That is why I originally asked about the bare 62cc heads.
Can you tell me more about the geometry correction kit and stand issues? What exactly is the correction kit?
Thanks
Around here, when someone refers to the geometry correction, they are usually talking about B3R, B3 racing. He has a kit that moves the shaft to the proper place for roller rockers. Check the tech pages at his website. Google B3 racing. (its not the european site that also comes up)
 
Around here, when someone refers to the geometry correction, they are usually talking about B3R, B3 racing. He has a kit that moves the shaft to the proper place for roller rockers. Check the tech pages at his website. Google B3 racing. (its not the european site that also comes up)
So if you do not use roller rockers, you don't need the correction kit? What about the 273CI stock adjustables? I was planning on reusing my stock rocker arms / shafts from the 318. Is this doable with a hydraulic roller cam / lifters?
 
So if you do not use roller rockers, you don't need the correction kit? What about the 273CI stock adjustables? I was planning on reusing my stock rocker arms / shafts from the 318. Is this doable with a hydraulic roller cam / lifters?
SOmething you should always check.
 
So if you do not use roller rockers, you don't need the correction kit? What about the 273CI stock adjustables? I was planning on reusing my stock rocker arms / shafts from the 318. Is this doable with a hydraulic roller cam / lifters?
The 318 stock paddle rockers are way too weak to use with the springs on the aluminum heads. Some guys are doing it but it’s just a matter of time b4 a push rod punches a hole thru them. As Mike said: u always need to check where the sweep is on the valve top. Kim
 
If i were building a warm street smallblock, and i had access to the 273 solid adjustables, i sure would use them .
As above, i doubt i would use the stock old hydraulic rockers on a roller. Too much spring pressure, and too agressive lobes.
 
So if you do not use roller rockers, you don't need the correction kit? What about the 273CI stock adjustables? I was planning on reusing my stock rocker arms / shafts from the 318. Is this doable with a hydraulic roller cam / lifters?
Do yourself a favor and do some research on fabo regarding issues with hydraulic lifters/rollers before you purchase your new cam. They can be problematic.
 
ProMaxx has a good supply I think. Got mine in about three weeks just like they said. That was earlier this summer. Another thing about the Speedmaster is that the geometry correction kits are breaking the rocker shaft stands because the stands are machined incorrectly unless maybe they have fixed that problem.
I posted about this issue (rocker stand saddles) and how to fix it some months back, but I have no idea how to post a link to my thread. Also @B3RE will also explain the issue to you as well. It's my understanding he wont even sell you a geometry correction kit until you remachine the saddles. Very smart guy, Mike is!
 
Do yourself a favor and do some research on fabo regarding issues with hydraulic lifters/rollers before you purchase your new cam. They can be problematic.
I already purchased the cam kit. It is a Lunati retro roller series..has all the top end parts in one kit with the cam and lifters.
 
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