Inquiry for cam recommendations.

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AZBadFish

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I'm building a 318 and will be using solid roller lifters. I'm soliciting recommendations for a cam. The engine will be going in a daily driver and I would like it mild+ , 90% street, 10% strip.
 
Herbert cams/Rubens cams.
225 235 @.050 280 305 .525 lift 112lsa
Would work with a solid roller lifter and easy on the springs.
 
First..make certain the cam you choose is ground on a cam core made for the Mopar .903 lifters. Most are Chevy grinds on cores designed for a smaller diameter lifter.

A solid lifter will run a long time without issue. Good choice. Juice rollers often fail due to a lack of splash oiling at idle and low speed driving.

Good luck finding a cam... So many delays in the supply chain today.
 
First..make certain the cam you choose is ground on a cam core made for the Mopar .903 lifters. Most are Chevy grinds on cores designed for a smaller diameter lifter.

A solid lifter will run a long time without issue. Good choice. Juice rollers often fail due to a lack of splash oiling at idle and low speed driving.

Good luck finding a cam... So many delays in the supply chain today.
Lunati, engle have no cores last I checked. The journal grinding machine was down last I heard.
 
To meet your requirements, a cam with mild duration will be reqd. Sometimes hard to find mild sol lifter grinds. An option would be to use a hyd grind, more choices, but run the lash tight, 0.006" hot.
 
I'm building a 318 and will be using solid roller lifters. I'm soliciting recommendations for a cam. The engine will be going in a daily driver and I would like it mild+ , 90% street, 10% strip.
Instead of just shooting down your initial desire to run a solid roller I’d advise you to call some cam companies and see what they would be able to grind. They do have smaller profile lobes so you could get one ground. The cost is high for all the components needed to run a solid roller. I’d assume your interest in running a roller would be no concerns of wiping lobes as can happen with a flat tappet, not to mention a little side benefit of more torque/hp afforded with using a roller. If cost isn’t a concern why not call around?:thumbsup:
 
with only 9.2:1 compression you will want to keep the LSA on the tighter side. I'd be shooting for under 108 depending on the duration. I'll see what I can find for a cam later.
 
Here is the solid cam that I'd go with if you're going off the shelf.

Howard's Cams: 711213-10

They list that cam very specifically for your engine and application. I'd personally like to see a touch less duration and a tighter LSA, but i'm not seeing that in an off the shelf solid roller. BTW i'm all for solid lifters, even on a street car. Adjusting them once every 10K is not a big deal at all.
 
Here is the solid cam that I'd go with if you're going off the shelf.

Howard's Cams: 711213-10

They list that cam very specifically for your engine and application. I'd personally like to see a touch less duration and a tighter LSA, but i'm not seeing that in an off the shelf solid roller. BTW i'm all for solid lifters, even on a street car. Adjusting them once every 10K is not a big deal at all.
I’m pretty sure Barnett Performance has that cam in stock. If one opens a free racers account you get their racers discount so it’ll be cheaper than the $381.06 shown.

F4175016-CF7A-4771-9E0B-657F40C7EA5C.png

Barnett Performance : Welcome to Barnett Performance - Home Page - https://www.barnettperformance.com
 
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Instead of just shooting down your initial desire to run a solid roller I’d advise you to call some cam companies and see what they would be able to grind. They do have smaller profile lobes so you could get one ground. The cost is high for all the components needed to run a solid roller. I’d assume your interest in running a roller would be no concerns of wiping lobes as can happen with a flat tappet, not to mention a little side benefit of more torque/hp afforded with using a roller. If cost isn’t a concern why not call around?:thumbsup:
Thank you.
 
Having previously had a small solid roller "street" cam in my street/race car, I will mention that a lot of the lifters don't drop right in. I spent ~5 hours in the valley of my 410 small block grinding the block for clearance. Also worth mentioning, that cam was pretty small....but it was still 248/254 duration @0.05 with ~ 0.575 lift....in a 318 that is pretty stock, it would be .... lets just say, not good.

If I were you, I would check with cam manufactures, tell them what you are looking for, and see what they have. My guess is they will try to steer you away from the solid roller for a daily driver.
 
248/254 duration @0.05 with ~ 0.575 lift isn't small cam in an LA and for the OP, it's agreeable that it would be too big, but no one is advocating for a cam like that.

The trend in a daily is always hyd lifters, whether roller or flat, and I would no longer build a flat tappet engine.

In yesteryear, many, MANY cars came with solid lifters or OHC like the mercedes diesels. They typically needed adjustment every 10k miles. NOt really sa big deal. If the OP wnts solids, and he doesn't mind adjusting them once or twice a year, I don't see the issue.
 
What about running a stock Magnum cam?
The specs can be hard to find. I cannot attest to the accuracy of these numbers, but I do have these for you;
5.2M cam:
251/264/113LSA/.432 lift
in at split-overlap (110*), this will get you
125*compression/111.5 power/31.5* o-lap/ Ica of 55*
Cylinder pressure at 9.2Scr is predicted to be 154psi@900ft

5.9M cam:
249/269/109LSA/lifts of .410/.417
In at split-overlap (104.5*), this will get you
131* compression/112 power/41* of o-lap/ Ica of 49*
Cylinder pressure at 9.2Scr is predicted to be 161psi@900ft

Yeah, I know these are hydraulic-lifter cams. At this level, and for your application, I don't see a problem .
These are pretty small cams, and the power-peak might be as low as 4400rpm.........
power-318-gif.gif
 
I'm building a 318 and will be using solid roller lifters. I'm soliciting recommendations for a cam. The engine will be going in a daily driver and I would like it mild+ , 90% street, 10% strip.
We're are you currently at with your build?... Is it in LA block or a magnum block?..
 
248/254 duration @0.05 with ~ 0.575 lift isn't small cam in an LA and for the OP, it's agreeable that it would be too big, but no one is advocating for a cam like that.

The trend in a daily is always hyd lifters, whether roller or flat, and I would no longer build a flat tappet engine.

In yesteryear, many, MANY cars came with solid lifters or OHC like the mercedes diesels. They typically needed adjustment every 10k miles. NOt really sa big deal. If the OP wnts solids, and he doesn't mind adjusting them once or twice a year, I don't see the issue.
Exactly.
Solid roller on the street isn't unheard of at all. Street version are designed for just that, not too aggressive .. so less spring is needed and valve train will last longer as will the rollers. I have a 251@.050 575 108lsa 106 or 104 icl and it's not a small cam nor one I would recommend for this op. Odd example by fly fish to use.
 
I'm building a 318 and will be using solid roller lifters. I'm soliciting recommendations for a cam. The engine will be going in a daily driver and I would like it mild+ , 90% street, 10% strip.
I agree with Ol’Kimmer. BUT….

What is needed to be known from you is a small list of questions.

What Aries block are we dealing with? LA or Magnum?
Weight of car.
Transmission being used.
Gear ratio and tire size.

Cylinder heads to be used
Headers or exhaust manifolds

In all honesty, unless the solid roller is on the large side, it’s a waste of time, money and effort. A good solid lifter flat tappet will perform toe to toe with a small roller easy.

Being your compression is on the low side, to much duration will kill off more cylinder pressure. Combined with a low displacement, this can be a source of a very bad performing engine.

You must answer the questions above for even a ball park suggestion on a cam.
 
Understand a solid roller cam 1st, then tell us there is no benefit unless the lift is huge...come on.

Is this is still a question? Call a cam grinder!

Op dont listen to those WHO DONT EVEN USE SOLID ROLLER CAM. It's like asking you eye doctor about a bunion.

Call herbert cams, get a street roller and go scare the **** out of your friends with test drives. They wont believe the response and mid range torque, itll turn'em white in the face.
Get some springs that give 190-200 seat and 425-450lbs open...Like kmotion k800's

It's not about lift, it's about accelerating the rate of lift, that's a roller! It will open and close so much faster...you can get more camshaft with less sacrificing power under the range. Talk to ruben, tell him the compression, weight, convertor, gear.
Get ideas here... but don't take specs from us as law.. talk to a cam grinder!
 
In regards to cylinder pressure, yes, more duration will reduce cylinder pressure, but so will more LSA.

Yes, LSA has more effect than just cylinder pressure. It broadens the power band, helps idle quality and often will increase peak HP, but the OP can run a tighter LSA and keep his cylinder pressure up.
 
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