How do my bearings look ?

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Journals and pistons still look new .
Rod bearings have some specs as well.
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What the hell, were you building the engine during a Boise dust storm.
 


Everyone had pointed out what they see.
What I also see is lack of oil to the cam bearing at startup. Now look at your main bearing oil feed holes and the alignment of the main and cam feed to the bearings oil holes. Can you show the oil feeds at the mains with the bearings out? Is this an early 360 by chance?

Slot the main bearing holes!
Any dark sections of the bearings are showing lack of oil.
Yes you have 600 open on the cam, but its starving at the main feed for oil.

Ps, sometimes the bearings have blueish to them in areas from plating. Make sure thats not what you're seeing on the thrust.
 
Slotting the bearings is a good idea .
I drilled all the oil galleys and checked bearing orientation but I was still uncomfortable with the amount of oil getting to the rockers . So I ordered ball to ball oil thru pushrods and cup style adjusters . I still didnt see much oil at top end with VCs off running .
Which is one of the reasons I chose to pull engine and go thru it . I also wanted to redo ring gap to .018 from .016 as I wasnt sleeping well thinking about the smaller gap .
 
I am sure it was insufficient cleaning by the assembler . Me ....
This time it will be very clean !
Folks tend to think that because the outside and major open inside areas of a block and head are clean when the come from a machine shop the parts are clean enough for assembly. That is not always true. Most machine shops do not have the wash equipment that really cleans and flushes the internal oil lines and blind bolt holes. To get those really clean, get a selection of nylon bottle and pencil brushes that are snug fit to the hole diameter and have a handle length that allows them to pass completely through the open holes from one end to the other. Then go at the oil lines and bolt holes with hot water and a good detergent like Dawn dish soap.
Flush them all with clean running water when done, blow everything out with compressed air to dry it throughout. Apply a dry film rust inhibitor and if not assembling the parts immediately, close the block - heads up in plastic bags. This same brushing - flushing - rust inhibitor process should also be used on the crankshaft oil lines.
 
Look at the ends of the rings for signs of butting if there was none leave it alone and if so go to .018
 
Slotting the bearings is a good idea .
I drilled all the oil galleys and checked bearing orientation but I was still uncomfortable with the amount of oil getting to the rockers . So I ordered ball to ball oil thru pushrods and cup style adjusters . I still didnt see much oil at top end with VCs off running .
Which is one of the reasons I chose to pull engine and go thru it . I also wanted to redo ring gap to .018 from .016 as I wasnt sleeping well thinking about the smaller gap .
You should see all feeds through the hole in the bearing. The oil feeds the journal and as crank turns... more is drawn in..while the deflecting oil goes to the cam with the same scenario.

People who don't open them up are A.leaving a potential for oil starvation B. Making a harder job for the oil pump. Resistance makes for hotter oil once the push force greatly exceeds the relief
 
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All holes have been bottle brushed using dawn and oxyclean . Then power washed . Then spray full of engine degreaser and bottle brushed again then powerwashed again .
 
Everyone had pointed out what they see.
What I also see is lack of oil to the cam bearing at startup. Now look at your main bearing oil feed holes and the alignment of the main and cam feed to the bearings oil holes. Can you show the oil feeds at the mains with the bearings out? Is this an early 360 by chance?

Slot the main bearing holes!
Any dark sections of the bearings are showing lack of oil.
Yes you have 600 open on the cam, but its starving at the main feed for oil.

Ps, sometimes the bearings have blueish to them in areas from plating. Make sure thats not what you're seeing on the thrust.


If the OP is using Clevite H series bearings that’s what they look like.
 
Looking at the pics in post #2. Looks like the edges of the crank have been riding on the brgs, very noticeable with the thrust brg. Probably due to poorly ground crank.
 
That main got hot, the cam bearing could be from reaming it so that cam would slide in. Not sure what the looked like before. Something not right. I would pull all the galley plugs and clean it forever, then once more. New bearings and double check the clearances. Deck surface looks fine for cometic. I really think that concern is overstated.
 
Not sure if anyone asked or not, was the block line honed? If the crank was new and not worked on, just dropped in a block that was not squared wouldn’t the bearing have some funky wear marks?
 
Block was align honed and square decked .
I am going to drop it off at a local machine shop to have them check tolerences and fit bearings . The guy I was talking to works on Clay Millicans top fuel team and does his bottom ends . He was concerned about my oiling issue as well .
 
I had my 340 block cleaned, new plugs, and honed for fresh rings last fall. Having seen this, I think I'm going to pull the plugs on the oil galleys at least and really give them a good ream and clean job. I've got the time before the rest of the car is ready and it will give me peace of mind. Might even tube the lifter galley adn do some other oiling mods while I'm at it.
 
I'm suffering a similar problem as the OP right now. I suspect builder didn't sufficiently clean and now I'm paying the price. Main bearing looked trashed with contamination.
 
I got the short block back from the shop today . Bearings were to tight as were my rings by a bit.
New bearings and rings now .
Plan is to dyno it next. With Victor and Pro Dominator ( if I get carbs and linkage finished in time).
 
I got the short block back from the shop today . Bearings were to tight as were my rings by a bit.
New bearings and rings now .
Plan is to dyno it next. With Victor and Pro Dominator ( if I get carbs and linkage finished in time).
What did you do to loosen the tolerance? Oversized bearings?
 
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