base coat clear coat wet sand, and now what?

My guns are those cheap, ATD three pack HVLP deals. I think the three tip sizes were 1.8, 1.4, 1.0
I had approx 30 PSI at the gun, on an analog, dial type inline regulator, on the output side of an inline water trap. Used at full trigger, pattern was not quite full width, but about 12" high at about a foot away. Spraying on cardboard, it appeared to be consistent with what I saw on videos. I sprayed trying to keep a 50% overlap, but I worked from the top down, and left to right. Two things I know - I probably was not completely consistent in my distance from the panels, and I probably moved too quickly. It looked to me, like maybe it was spraying too dry, but my inexperience let me continue. I have read and heard a few different things regarding clearing at this point. Some say the same as above, the finish is now too smooth. Some say, like you (if I understood you right), the clear can still be applied. So, do I need to re-sand at 600 (I am currently at 2000)? Maybe I should just try polishing it. To be honest, if I can get enough of a shine out of it like I had, when it was wet, I would probably be ok with that. I would love a show car finish, but to be honest with myself - I just don't have the proper tools, skills, or money in the budget for that.
I have an air powered DA, but I don't think I would want to use it for buffing / polishing. I have an older, electric polisher - it looks like similar to a grinder, but much larger, and much slower. I have access to some decent pads. I also have some Meguire's compound and swirl mark remover. It may not be top notch like the 3M stuff, but I have used it before.
2k is too fine to hold any material. If you are going to clear it again go with 6 to 800. Da's are not for buffing... they are for polishing. A buffer like you mentioned is what you need to buff the clear. You can go finer with 3k soft pad on a da and up to 5k soft pad. This makes buffing go much faster.