I know the normal answer her is "cut and buff." I have a bit of a dilemma - I am not certain I put enough clear on, to make it through the cut and buff process. I know this is the case at least in one spot, because I sanded through it. It is tiny, very low on the car, and I can fix (read "hide") it. I had a huge amount of orange peel. I understand some to be normal, this is like that, to the tenth power. If you have not guessed already, I am not a painter. The last car I painted was 25 years ago, single stage. My build / finish is on a tight budget, I wanted to do as much / all the work on the car myself, and if the paint job didn't turn out, at least I didn't pay a lot for the results (my budget would have only allowed for a paint job by a place like Maaco, and although they can paint, at my price point, there are not too many choices; and I wanted a sort of custom job. I know...cake and eat it, too). So, the paint came from TCP Global - Urethane metallic basecoat / clear coat. I got lucky spraying the base - no runs, laid flat, not blotchy, and looks pretty even in the sun - the best I could hope for. Clear coat data sheet called for a 1.2 tip. My gun was a 1.4. I am guessing that means its a larger orifice for more / thicker paint. I sprayed what I thought was 4 coats, allowing proper flash between them. I think I was too far away from the surface, no runs, but not very glossy and a runner up in the "most like an orange" contest. I have wet sanded it pretty flat, starting with 1000, 1500, and 2000 grit. Do I now respray clear on it, in hopes of laying it flat, and most importantly, that it will adhere? Should I; or do I just try to buff or polish what I have lightly and call it good? This is a driver class vehicle, that I would like to show from time to time (for the fun of it, I am not a trophy hound). The picture shows the car, wet after washing, after last sanding.
View attachment 1715801574
