Transmission pan leak

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dartfreak75

dartfreak75

Restore it, Dont part it!
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I have a steady drip on my trans pan I just dropped and replaced the gasket and filter. I used a lube locker gasket no cheap one and its still leaking. I drove the car around today to heat it up let it cool drove it some more let it cool still leaking. What gives? Do I need to use rtv? I tighten the bolts to 12.5 lbs or 150 inch which is what i read it called for.
 
CudaFactHackJob said:
Getting a pan to not leak has become an art form I guess. I use cheap $3.50 gaskets and they NEVER leak.
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The first gasket is whatever comes in the shift kit it leaked but I didn't use any rtv. So I went with the lube locker and it still leaks lol
 
Check the shift selector , there is a seal that could be causing the leak.
the fluid will drip and gather on the pan rail.
 
You sure it's the pan and not the shift lever seal or throttle position (kick down) shaft seal?? Two seals in one hole. Is where my Dart is leaking and wish I'd done them both before I put the K frame/engine/trans back into the car.
 
fishmens67 said:
Check the shift selector , there is a seal that could be causing the leak.
the fluid will drip and gather on the pan rail.
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dadsbee said:
You sure it's the pan and not the shift lever seal or throttle position (kick down) shaft seal?? Two seals in one hole. Is where my Dart is leaking and wish I'd done them both before I put the K frame/engine/trans back into the car.
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Its the pan I can watch it seep out. Its the front of the pan. Last time it was the rear of the pan. Its seeping out right between the two center bolt holes
 
dartfreak75 said:
Its the pan I can watch it seep out. Its the front of the pan. Last time it was the rear of the pan. Its seeping out right between the two center bolt holes
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I hate chasing leaks. I would suggest making sure the pan is flat and square to the transmission case. And then I would use a ball peen hammer on the holes so they are slightly raised on the bolt side of the pan. That should give you good contact all the way around once you snug up the bolts. If that doesn't work... well then I'm sorry for ya. It should work unless there's something you're not telling us. Lol
 
Confirm ONE HUNDRED PERCENT that's it's not something else. A LOT of times, it's something higher, leaking over the pan rail and it looks just like a pan leak. Look it over with a magnifying glass.
 
Scamp Rhonda said:
I hate chasing leaks. I would suggest making sure the pan is flat and square to the transmission case. And then I would use a ball peen hammer on the holes so they are slightly raised on the bolt side of the pan. That should give you good contact all the way around once you snug up the bolts. If that doesn't work... well then I'm sorry for ya. It should work unless there's something you're not telling us. Lol
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Thanks ill try that if it don't work ill buy a new pan.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Confirm ONE HUNDRED PERCENT that's it's not something else. A LOT of times, it's something higher, leaking over the pan rail and it looks just like a pan leak. Look it over with a magnifying glass.
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Its the pan i watched it seep thru as soon as I added the atf I crawled under the car and looked and I could see the gasket getting wet and it started leaking I watched it come thru
 
dartfreak75 said:
Its the pan i watched it seep thru as soon as I added the atf I crawled under the car and looked and I could see the gasket getting wet and it started leaking I watched it come thru
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If you end up removing the pan, a lot of times the transmission case will crack through the bolt holes because people over tighten the bolts. Dry it off really good and literally inspect the bolt holes with a magnifying glass. If you see a crack through a bolt hole, clean the holes up OPERATING ROOM clean and dry, then, coat the bolt threads with a GOOD COAT of high temp red RTV and reinstall the pan. Let it sit overnight with no fluid and fill it up the next day.
 
RustyRatRod said:
If you end up removing the pan, a lot of times the transmission case will crack through the bolt holes because people over tighten the bolts. Dry it off really good and literally inspect the bolt holes with a magnifying glass. If you see a crack through a bolt hole, clean the holes up OPERATING ROOM clean and dry, then, coat the bolt threads with a GOOD COAT of high temp red RTV and reinstall the pan. Let it sit overnight with no fluid and fill it up the next day.
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Thats a good idea thanks
 
dartfreak75 said:
Why hell no! I didn't know i had too! Until scamp Rhonda mentioned it. Lol
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Well if you didn't do that, that could be the problem. I not only straighten them, I knock them out a little "positive". In other words, indent the holes towards the outside of the pan from the inside. That way, you're making SURE the sealing area of the pan actually squeezes the gasket when you tighten the bolts.

Did that make sense?
 
Also be sure ALL the bolt holes in the trans are free of junk.

With the pan off, run each bolt into each hole and be sure it can bottom on the trans before the bolt bottoms in the hole.

You might also have a crack in the pan
 
RustyRatRod said:
Well if you didn't do that, that could be the problem. I not only straighten them, I knock them out a little "positive". In other words, indent the holes towards the outside of the pan from the inside. That way, you're making SURE the sealing area of the pan actually squeezes the gasket when you tighten the bolts.

Did that make sense?
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Yep makes perfect sense. Wish I'd know that this morning haha. Damn I don't want to pull this beoch again. Looks like I'm gonna have to tho.
 
Dana67Dart said:
Also be sure ALL the bolt holes in the trans are free of junk.

With the pan off, run each bolt into each hole and be sure it can bottom on the trans before the bolt bottoms in the hole.

You might also have a crack in the pan
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The holes should be good I cleaned the case and taped all the holes when I went thru the transmission
 
Like RRR and SR said about the bolt holes in the pan. But DON'T just make the pan flat; dent the holes away from the trans; that way they'll prestress the area between the bolts. NEVER use a cork, cork/neoprene, neoprene, or rubber gasket. You have to find the DURAPRENE gasket; about $3.50. And NO SEALER! Clean and DRY surfaces.
 
CudaFactHackJob said:
Like RRR and SR said about the bolt holes in the pan. But DON'T just make the pan flat; dent the holes away from the trans; that way they'll prestress the area between the bolts. NEVER use a cork, cork/neoprene, neoprene, or rubber gasket. You have to find the DURAPRENE gasket; about $3.50. And NO SEALER! Clean and DRY surfaces.
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This is the gasket I installed today. The first time it had whatever came in the kit. I think it may have been neoprene

Screenshot_20211005-224742_Samsung Internet.jpg
 
All , very good advice you just got ! One other thing I always do when I put a trans pan on. I check the torque on all the pan bolts at least twice ! There are always some of the bolts that are not torqued all the way !
 
Rmoore said:
All , very good advice you just got ! One other thing I always do when I put a trans pan on. I check the torque on all the pan bolts at least twice ! There are always some of the bolts that are not torqued all the way !
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Yes I thought of that I went thru a couple different time and retorqued them my torque wrench sucks and I need a new one but I most definitely got a click its possible its too much 12 lbs isn't alot thats for sure
 
CudaFactHackJob said:
Like RRR and SR said about the bolt holes in the pan. But DON'T just make the pan flat; dent the holes away from the trans; that way they'll prestress the area between the bolts. NEVER use a cork, cork/neoprene, neoprene, or rubber gasket. You have to find the DURAPRENE gasket; about $3.50. And NO SEALER! Clean and DRY surfaces.
Click to expand...
I'm like you. A leaking pan gasket is something I've not had issue with. I like these though. Last pan gasket you'll ever buy. Well worth the money.

Moroso 93110 Moroso Transmission Pan Gaskets | Summit Racing
 
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