BROKEN OIL DIP STICK
- Thread starter cawley
- Start date
-
easyout works good.
sccachallenger
Well-Known Member
I've used a hex head sheet metal screw, use a size that just cuts into the tube.
Not too tight! You can then pry it out, or maybe tap under the head from below with a screwdriver or punch. Of course if the pan is off, just drive it out from the bottom.
Not too tight! You can then pry it out, or maybe tap under the head from below with a screwdriver or punch. Of course if the pan is off, just drive it out from the bottom.
We are talking about the dip stick "tube" itself broken off flush with the block?
Get yourself what's known as a "Lag Screw" at your hardware store.
Screw it in.
Put a vice grip under the head of the screw.
Get out your hammer.
Tap it up and out, from under the vice grips.
Get yourself what's known as a "Lag Screw" at your hardware store.
Screw it in.
Put a vice grip under the head of the screw.
Get out your hammer.
Tap it up and out, from under the vice grips.
dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
Mine was a ***** to get out. I tried everything. Easy out, bolt, chisel you name it. Mine was disassembled so I ended up just drilling it until it was so thin I got one side broke in two and just pulled it out then cleaned and blew out all the chips if its in the car with the oil pan on i wouldn't recommend doing it that way
diymirage
HP@idle > hondaHP@redline
Do exactly what he said, BUT put the bolt through a smaller box wrench first, that way you don't need to mess with the vise grips
That is, if we are talking about the tube
If we are talking about the dipstick itself, i guess we would need to know how deep it sits in the tube
I never have good luck doing it the easy way, so I just cut through the red tape and pull the pan and knock it out from the inside.
dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
I tried that too I couldn't get it out that way either it just would bend and break in little pieces couldn't get a good grip on the shoulder without it slipping.
Not going to be fun. If you can find a bolt that barely fits in the tube, tap the tube to that size, add a bunch of washers or something to work as a shoulder the tube can go into and tighten the bolt, should pull it out. Only problem there will be metal in the pan, drain the oil and spray say carb cleaner in there to flush the tap chips out. Worked for me years ago just FYI
sccachallenger
Well-Known Member
I feel your pain! First time I had to deal with this was a buddy who put a 340 in his 'Cuda that was "missing" the dipstick tube. We assumed we could just install a new one after the engine was in the car, big mistake! He tried grinding one down to fit, never could get it to stop leaking.
I use a 5/16 tap. Fill the flutes with grease to hold what little chip it does make. Tap the tube deep as tap will go. Thread in a long piece of 5/16 all thread. Slide a piece of pipe over that. Add a large washer(s) and a nut. Now you have a slide hammer
dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
That is freaking genius! I wish I would have asked now lol. I'll keep thst one in my memory bank
mopowers
Well-Known Member
I'd be temped to just tap it in the pan with a roll pin punch and deal with it the next time I dropped the pan. Or maybe try to fish it out with a small telescopic magnet through the drain plug the next time I changed the oil.
It's actually a Ford thing. The T-birds and Lincolns that were big as land yachts had the dipstick near the left fender. Anyone who knew to stand by the left fender could pull the stick without issue. Those who reached from in front of the car would break the tube. Just too far and too much angle.
My previous post didn't mention magnetizing the tap to better retain the chips (3rd grade science) but yep... we did that too. The 8 inch long piece of 1 inch schd 80 black pipe came from my time in the textile mill. Other techs would borrow this homemade slide hammer/dipstick removal tool and my magnetized tap. Every customer choose the less expensive.
What took time away was explaining two different procedures and the vast difference in the cost to the owner at the service counter.
When the 1st 88 Ranger or Bronco 2 (I forget, both the same) with a broken automatic shifter string came by me, I took a lot of stuff apart to get all the little pieces of that beaded plastic string out of the shifter (dang thing looks like a butt toy, forgive me for that). Anyway... a Fellow tech says all I need is the fat straw from MacDonald's. Sure enough, keep poking that straw down the shifter tube until all the pieces removed are equal length as the replacement part. Drop new string in, handle back on, and out the door. That guys name was Tim. I really enjoyed working with him. We taught each other a lot of things.
dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
Mine wouldn't go that way it had a shoulder inside the hole. I tried that lol
-
