Adjustable strut rods alignment question 74 Dart

When people say 'no bind', that means no bind in the normal travel. Bumpstop to bumpstop. There can be bind at the extremes of movement due to changing axes - and also due to some mechanical limits (**** runs into other ****). But between the bumpstops, it should move freely and have no fore/aft slop on the pivot pin. I installed QA1 strut rods last winter and that was what I found. I set mine for free travel, and then an extra 1/2 tighter to pull the control arm forward slightly. My thinking was to bias against the deflection that braking will cause. So far it drives great.

@TJman if you're wandering, it can be multiple things. Steering axis inclination, toe, caster, they can all influence a pull or wandering. Depending on what kind of parts you're dealing with, all of these can be altered to some extent. There are bubble-level type alignment tools available which can help you get close enough to drive it to a shop. Camber is pretty easy to check with nothing more than a level and a straight edge. Caster is tougher, so I'd check and confirm your toe as a sanity check to ensure there's nothing massively off there to begin with. A difference in ride-height left to right can cause the static steering inclination to differ (result of camber gain), which can result in a pull when going down the road. A pull with a marginal toe setting can cause a concerning amount of wander.