Adjustable strut rods alignment question 74 Dart

TJman said
Thanks for the reply. Right after I posted, I went home for lunch, loosened the UCA bolts and was able to move it through the range of travel. I tightened the strut until it no longer wanted to drop all the way down and then losened it slightly so it would move again. Since it's now shorter than the OEM strut, I figure I'm improving my caster, in addition to making it more stable. We'll see.
I've had it to 2 different alignment shops. They both sent it back to me with the steering wheel turned at 90deg and said there wasn't enough adjustment to correct it. I easily centered it myself - the search for a competent alignment guy continues. The wondering effect was improved with the steering centered, but I'm still white knuckling it at 70 and making constant micro adjustments to stay in my lane. I used to cruise at 90 on 30yo suspension and bias ply tires and now this... wish me luck.

Step 1 on any torsion bar alignment is ride height. If the shop screwed with that, it could be part of the issue. With a swaybar, adjusting one side will also affect the other - it's very important to make the ride height adjustment with the bar disconnected. I could see an inexperienced shop skipping that step.

Raising the front end can help increase caster and stability to some degree too. If the incompetent shop lowered the front, it could be compounding your issue.

If you reset your own wheel, it's possible the toe is slightly off. Shouldn't be with equal adjustments per side, but I've seen stranger things. Lengthening each adjustment sleeve a 1/4-1/2 turn and seeing if your situation improves might not be a bad idea. It's what I'd do, but I rarely have to drive 70mph these days.