Adjustable strut rods alignment question 74 Dart

TJman said
I didn't have the sway bar disconnected when I set the ride height, but I can see how that would cause me to adjust one side differently than the other. I raised it up and messed with it along with straightening the steering wheel and it was much better. I'm hopefull that with the adjustable strut rods, setting the height with your advice, and another (3rd) alignment, I'll have it riding better. I also ordered new 1.03 torsion bars, just to eliminate that variable, as I got mine used and suspected them of being different from side to side (which may just be the sway bar deal that you mentioned). In the mean time, I had had the wrong (too small) bolts in the leaf mounts. I fixed that and replaced the shackle bushings with urethane. I have a rear sway that is yet to be installed. This thing should ride pretty tight if I can solve the riddle.

Should be easy to measure the bars or check for part numbers to see if they're matched.
If you search around, you can find the proper measurements for setting factory ride height. You can change from there, but it's a good starting point. It requires measuring the difference between the ball joint and pivot point heights, which is a good way to do it and doesn't get skewed by tire height.

Also remember that any time the car is lowered, you need to drive forward/backward a bit to settle the suspension. Due to the way the front end swings, and the built-in bind of the system, it takes a bit of rolling for everything to seek a repeatable position. This is one of the ways that some shops screw up - they change the ride height on the rack, and then start tweaking things without rolling it out. From there, the errors compound and you get a screwed up result. Happened to a buddy of mine with his E body too. I finally found a guy in my town who knows what he's doing, and is earning all my alignment biz from now on!