Stock 340 Manifolds or TTI Shorties?

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Ricks70Duster340 said:
I have a new Blueprint Engines 408 and currently am using the original 340 manifolds. I bought TTI 1 5/8" shorties for the project but am rethinking my decision to install them. Anyone have experience with performance improvements between the two? The car will be used on the street only and max RPM 5500. Car has 3.23 gears with 28" tires and a PTI 3000 stall converter. Thanks guys.
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Have WE cleared it up for you?
:rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl:
 
cpearce said:
Perhaps from performance standpoint TTI headers are not the be all end all for an all out effort race car. I think very few would fall into this category of necessity, and therefore TTI are likely a good alternative. In my 69 Swinger, yes 4 speed, yes scattershield I didn't find the install or accessibility to anything to be a problem. Now on my 73 SS/JA Duster, I agree I wouldn't run TTI on it when every little bit counts. It uses Stahl headers with a tube that goes around the frame. I also have Hooker 5303 race headers, I can assure you those are an ugly install even with an automatic. Again, don't think this is what the masses are doing.
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I wasn’t talking about race cars. I’m talking about street driven cars. I’m also not concerned with what the masses do. If you are spending money, why not spend it once and get your money’s worth? I don’t know about the Hooker headers you mentioned. Never used them and I couldn’t find them anywhere when I searched for them. I’d like to see some pictures of them for sure.
 
Interesting set of pipes. I’m not sure where the 7 and 8 tubes go, but that header has to be a tight fit everywhere. Thanks for the link abj.
 
Wanted to provide an epilog to this post. Will be selling the TTI shorties at some point, but bought the Dougs D453 long tube headers and installed them. The instructions provided are pretty vague. On my '70 Duster, I did remove the engine to trans braces & mini starter on the driver side. After raising the engine, had to unbolt and lower the steering column, then removed the manual gearbox (pulled the pittman from the gearbox first). The header went right in from there. Did not need to drop the drag link as the instructions said. Excellent ground clearance and plug access is better than stock manifolds. On the passenger side, had to remove the 90* oil filter adapter and torsion bar. Header installed from underneath pretty easily. Installed the straight oil filter plate instead of the 90* (easier to get to from the top now). Had the usual challenge of rerouting my B&M shifter cable to clear the header tubes. Not a big deal, but took time. Only negative I have found is I have the PST 1.03 torsion bars and the headers are right up against the bars. Will see if I need to "clearance" them after driving for awhile. Will use my sawzall to cut the exhaust pipe back then tie the pipe to the torsion bar so I can drive it to the exhaust shop and have them attach to the new reducers. Total installation took about 11 hours with me doing all the work myself.

Edit: I am glad I have the QA1 K-member as it provided a lot more working room for this installation, especially when reinstalling the starter. Dougs said the starter had to be installed concurrently with the header, but that was not so for me.
 
Ricks70Duster340 said:
Wanted to provide an epilog to this post. Will be selling the TTI shorties at some point, but bought the Dougs D453 long tube headers and installed them. The instructions provided are pretty vague. On my '70 Duster, I did remove the engine to trans braces & mini starter on the driver side. After raising the engine, had to unbolt and lower the steering column, then removed the manual gearbox (pulled the pittman from the gearbox first). The header went right in from there. Did not need to drop the drag link as the instructions said. Excellent ground clearance and plug access is better than stock manifolds. On the passenger side, had to remove the 90* oil filter adapter and torsion bar. Header installed from underneath pretty easily. Installed the straight oil filter plate instead of the 90* (easier to get to from the top now). Had the usual challenge of rerouting my B&M shifter cable to clear the header tubes. Not a big deal, but took time. Only negative I have found is I have the PST 1.03 torsion bars and the headers are right up against the bars. Will see if I need to "clearance" them after driving for awhile. Will use my sawzall to cut the exhaust pipe back then tie the pipe to the torsion bar so I can drive it to the exhaust shop and have them attach to the new reducers. Total installation took about 11 hours with me doing all the work myself.

Edit: I am glad I have the QA1 K-member as it provided a lot more working room for this installation, especially when reinstalling the starter. Dougs said the starter had to be installed concurrently with the header, but that was not so for me.
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Nice, those were exactly the ones I have been researching. I've been thinking about the ceramic coated one. They list for over $600. but Dougs have a good reputation.
 
A56 said:
Nice, those were exactly the ones I have been researching. I've been thinking about the ceramic coated one. They list for over $600. but Dougs have a good reputation.
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The ceramic coated ones are the ones I got. They look like chrome, and Summit had them in stock.
 
Ricks70Duster340 said:
Wanted to provide an epilog to this post. Will be selling the TTI shorties at some point, but bought the Dougs D453 long tube headers and installed them. The instructions provided are pretty vague. On my '70 Duster, I did remove the engine to trans braces & mini starter on the driver side. After raising the engine, had to unbolt and lower the steering column, then removed the manual gearbox (pulled the pittman from the gearbox first). The header went right in from there. Did not need to drop the drag link as the instructions said. Excellent ground clearance and plug access is better than stock manifolds. On the passenger side, had to remove the 90* oil filter adapter and torsion bar. Header installed from underneath pretty easily. Installed the straight oil filter plate instead of the 90* (easier to get to from the top now). Had the usual challenge of rerouting my B&M shifter cable to clear the header tubes. Not a big deal, but took time. Only negative I have found is I have the PST 1.03 torsion bars and the headers are right up against the bars. Will see if I need to "clearance" them after driving for awhile. Will use my sawzall to cut the exhaust pipe back then tie the pipe to the torsion bar so I can drive it to the exhaust shop and have them attach to the new reducers. Total installation took about 11 hours with me doing all the work myself.

Edit: I am glad I have the QA1 K-member as it provided a lot more working room for this installation, especially when reinstalling the starter. Dougs said the starter had to be installed concurrently with the header, but that was not so for me.
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Is there any wiggle room to slide the motor away from the torsion bar?
 
I will say that my engine is a little higher than stock because I am running the Schumacher poly mounts. They are about 1/4" higher than stock so that could have made a difference.
 
Ricks70Duster340 said:
No, because it is centered right now and the TB clearance is the same on both sides. Very close fit, but it did fit.
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Thanx for the heads up. I have Mopar Performance 1.14 torsion bars so that gives me pause. Would not want to have to ding the pipe for clearance.
 
A56 said:
Thanx for the heads up. I have Mopar Performance 1.14 torsion bars so that gives me pause. Would not want to have to ding the pipe for clearance.
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Dinging the pipe is not desireable, but I will say these headers fit better than any others I've used in the past. A little mod to clearance one pipe on each side would not be a show stopper for me.
 
Wrap a ratchet strap around the trans or T-bar, and collector, and urge it over.
Or a fence-post up the collector can also be used for encouragement .
 
I do it all the time, but as a last resort .
I first loosen all the fasteners to the motor mounts, trans mounts, and then jack/pry to get as much clearance as possible, then re-tighten everything .
I often take the header off, and belt sand, or weld as nec, - to change the angle the header leaves the head.
I haven't had to ding a header in years. That's way over a dozen, maybe two.
I install a lotta headers, TTIs years ago, then they had rust issues, been installing only Doug's since 05ish.
P.S. leave the bags on till after install, if poss, then wipe/remove handprints before fire-up.
As for stress on the flange, lol - you'll find that the curb you hit when you mis-judge a driveway exit, - will use the collector as landing gear. lol
Good luck .
 
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The old "Appliance" headers worked well for me and lasted 40 years, until last year when I took the 340 out for storage. Used "Blackjack" headers on my Chevy's and they were junk. The Appliance headers were a thicker gauge then most others. Another company bought them out, I believe in the upper 70's and they were never the same. 2.5 collectors, attached to 2.5 pipe w/ turbo Walker mufflers. A great setup for what I had.
 
inertia said:
As for stress on the flange, lol - you'll find that the curb you hit when you mis-judge a driveway exit, - will use the collector as landing gear. lol
Good luck .
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The Dougs header collectors are tucked up nicely so no issues whatsoever with clearance. My '73 sway bar is the lowest thing I have. Wish I could have used my OE style bar because it was much more tucked up. So far, the headers are working great and have very good ground clearance. Still a bit tight on the torsion bars, but not going to worry about that. Car is fun to drive now!
 
Ricks70Duster340 said:
The Dougs header collectors are tucked up nicely so no issues whatsoever with clearance. My '73 sway bar is the lowest thing I have. Wish I could have used my OE style bar because it was much more tucked up. So far, the headers are working great and have very good ground clearance. Still a bit tight on the torsion bars, but not going to worry about that. Car is fun to drive now!
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Notice a difference??
 
Johnny Mac said:
Notice a difference??
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Maybe a little, but no "wow" difference. Engine pulls strong through about 5500. Started the new engine with the 670 street avenger I had and just put the 750 on that came with the engine. That carb seems to have better idle and low speed manners. Tell you what, when that 3000 stall converter brings the power to the wheels, it is awesome! Car is really fun to drive now. Think it runs better than the 440 I built years ago in a lighter weight package. Win-win in my opinion!
 
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