Super bummed. New motor. Bad bearings?

-
I am thinking that tight clearances would have wiped the bearings and the crank journals, moving metal from one to the other. I did not see that.
What I did see on the bearing shells was evidence of debris passing across the bearing faces.
As been said many times. Machine shop hot tanks are really effective in removing external grime and sludge. They are just as effective at depositing that grime and sludge in the block-head-crank interior oil passages. Hot water, dawn dish soap and the right sized bottle brushes are not only your friend here, they are your lifeline.
 
They don't clean they're hot tanks like they used too either. Expensive. My last 2 blocks were still full of rust, they were rust free in the old days.
 
I just went through this on my 408.
A few hours run time and I blew a freeze plug. Pulled it to check head gasket/replace plug and didnt like looks of the bearings .
 
Not enough times is the emphasis put on how UN-clean new parts can be, sometimes just plain awful, & My AR nature led Me to catch the 1st "done right" job when the head for the K6 v1.0 came back from the mach shop....the oil feed hole to the rocker shaft plugged solid.......
 
They don't clean they're hot tanks like they used too either. Expensive. My last 2 blocks were still full of rust, they were rust free in the old days.
Back in the day it was a "hot acid" tank. Now its called hot tank. Whatever some places use now isnt acid so the rust doesnt come off as well. I took a set of heads in about 15-20 years ago to be hot tanked to get the rust of, they bead blasted them no hot acid and that was back in early mid 200s...
 
The acid is still available. I have a friend that does the metal cleaning in a shop. Their solution gets pretty dirty, when it gets weak, he just adds more of the acid.
When the tank is clean, parts look like new, but down the road it just starts over again .
 
from what Ive heard disposal of the acid is costly, that may be why places that still have it just keep adding to it.
 
I'll probably not be taking it back to the machine shop unless I find something wrong clearance wise that can't be remedied with some oversized bearings. That said you can bet your *** I'll be washing the block very thoroughly. I have the engine brushes already. It's not rocket science, but obviously requires persistence.

Any suggestions on cleaning out the rocker shafts?
 
I'll probably not be taking it back to the machine shop unless I find something wrong clearance wise that can't be remedied with some oversized bearings. That said you can bet your *** I'll be washing the block very thoroughly. I have the engine brushes already. It's not rocket science, but obviously requires persistence.

Any suggestions on cleaning out the rocker shafts?

You have to knock the soft plugs out to clean them correctly.
 
This story and other recent ones have me reevaluating the block I had honed and cleaned. I want to go through all the oil passages myself. I'm sure I can figure it out, but is there a handy guide to which plugs need to be removed to gain access and allow flow?
 
This story and other recent ones have me reevaluating the block I had honed and cleaned. I want to go through all the oil passages myself. I'm sure I can figure it out, but is there a handy guide to which plugs need to be removed to gain access and allow flow?
All of them.
 
Not enough times is the emphasis put on how UN-clean new parts can be, sometimes just plain awful, & My AR nature led Me to catch the 1st "done right" job when the head for the K6 v1.0 came back from the mach shop....the oil feed hole to the rocker shaft plugged solid.......
Lol, OK, @Louie70Dart ...You disagreed with......???
 
I've basically got the engine totally torn down at this point. No new surprises. Most of the rods showed signs of contaminants, all the mains showed. No scratches I've seen on the crank journals so at least that's good.

I'm going to take the block/recip assy to the machine shop and have it looked over.

Hopefully I'll have this buttoned back up in a few weeks. Fingers crossed. I'm on the hunt for a local dyno operator so I can have the engine broken in before going in the car. That way if there's any issues I can get them resolved beforehand.
 
So unfortunately so much other crap going on with this. Cylinders had a bunch of oil accumulation and Chambers had same. Block is completely torn down now and I'm on my way to the machine shop. Probably going to need to be honed and new rings. Freaking blows but better to do this than lunch the whole thing.
 
The block is supposed to go in for honing this week. I got this picture back today. One of the cam bearings pretty eaten up. No. 4 journal. I'll be looking closely at that cam today for that. Any idea what could cause this?

IMG_20211025_133312.jpg
IMG_20211025_133259.jpg
 
The block is supposed to go in for honing this week. I got this picture back today. One of the cam bearings pretty eaten up. No. 4 journal. I'll be looking closely at that cam today for that. Any idea what could cause this?

View attachment 1715810473 View attachment 1715810477
The cam bearings may have been not installed in the correct order.
Perhaps an Engine Builder will chime in.
 
wow, that thing is shot! the other side doesnt even look touched. cam bore off?

I agree with Pishta . Check the cam bore alignment. Not uncommon for it to be off . I guess bigblocks are more prone .
 
Muscle Motors had an article on cam tunnel core shift. Maybe check it out. Can You even install a mopar cam bearing in the wrong location.. or not have it not fall out?
 
Just one bearing looks like that? Wouldn't you have to almost beat the cam into place? I knew from the pieces in one of your first pictures, that the debris was cam bearing. Exception, thought it was from a lobe scraping a bearing on install.
 
Muscle Motors had an article on cam tunnel core shift. Maybe check it out. Can You even install a mopar cam bearing in the wrong location.. or not have it not fall out?
I believe the cam bearing bore's are stepped, smallest one is to the rear of the block, largest to the front.
I dont know if you can install them out of order.
I guess with a big enough hammer anything is possible.
 
-
Back
Top