Dexron

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dodgedart1968

dodgedart1968

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I just changed the AT filter in my '68 Dart. Four and a half quarts drained from the AT. The FSM specifies Dexron AT fluid. I see that there are a variety of Dexrons available (lll, VI). Which one should I use to service the AT?
 
dodgedart1968 said:
I just changed the AT filter in my '68 Dart. Four and a half quarts drained from the AT. The FSM specifies Dexron AT fluid. I see that there are a variety of Dexrons available (lll, VI). Which one should I use to service the AT?
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I would use III if you can get it. I think IV is synthetic.
 
If the converter doesn't have a drain plug, how do you drain it? Take it out? No easy way without a drain plug.
 
The specs for each say that each new version is compatible and supersedes the other. I never have liked that bull junk, so I always try to get the closest I can to what I have. If you know for sure you have original Dexron 1, 2, or 3, I would take @toolmanmike's advice and go with Dexron 3.
 
Usually Mopar converters have a drain plug unless yours has been replaced with an aftermarket. Oils have changed a lot since these cars were built. New cars today change their trans fluid every 30K. Todays cars have no converter drain plug, so on these you can only change 1/2 of the oil.
 
In the past I have carefully drilled and tapped a drain hole in the TC, for an Eighth pipe plug. But I gotta tell ya, it is Nerve Wracking, and the guts are right there.
In your case, accepting what you said as gospel, I would just fill it up and drive. Done it many a time.
As to the fluid, read the label. AFAIK all Dextrons can be mixed; but I do prefer Dextron II. I did one time, a long time ago, fill my Mopar with Ford juice, but that was a bust; It was just too slippery and I had to take it all out.
 
If the fluid in the converter really bothers you , you can disable the ignition, remove a transmission line and spin the engine over with a drain pan under the line.
 
AJ/FormS said:
In the past I have carefully drilled and tapped a drain hole in the TC, for an Eighth pipe plug. But I gotta tell ya, it is Nerve Wracking, and the guts are right there.
In your case, accepting what you said as gospel, I would just fill it up and drive. Done it many a time.
As to the fluid, read the label. AFAIK all Dextrons can be mixed; but I do prefer Dextron II. I did one time, a long time ago, fill my Mopar with Ford juice, but that was a bust; It was just too slippery and I had to take it all out.
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I've been running type f. Read the friction modifiers were coarser, allowing firmer shifts...
 
If you really want to change the fluid 100 percent.

Drain all the fluid you can.
Refill,

Rince and repete .

Lets say you drain 50% each time.

(Old / New)

The first time you have 50/50

The next time you have 25/75

The next time you have 12.5 /87.5

The next time you have 6.25 / 93.75

The next time you have 3.125 / 96.875

Its a lot of work but will really clean out your transmission.

The more you drain out the quicker you get to ~3% or less
 
Dana67Dart said:
If you really want to change the fluid 100 percent.

Drain all the fluid you can.
Refill,

Rince and repete .

Lets say you drain 50% each time.

(Old / New)

The first time you have 50/50

The next time you have 25/75

The next time you have 12.5 /87.5

The next time you have 6.25 / 93.75

The next time you have 3.125 / 96.875

Its a lot of work but will really clean out your transmission.

The more you drain out the quicker you get to ~3% or less
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And you just blew thru $100+ of ATF.
 
Wow. Change the fluid and filter and forget about the mega gallon flush! You will be good for another 100,000 miles. It's been done that way for a half a century!
 
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512Stroker said:
And you just blew thru $100+ of ATF
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No argument there, i was just pointing out that you could drain and refill to a fully flushed system.

Auto repair shops have a system that sucks out the trans fluid as they replace it.

Dont know the cost or the % of old fluid that remains, but it is basically the same idea .
 
Ironracer said:
I've been running type f. Read the friction modifiers were coarser, allowing firmer shifts...
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B&m requires or recommends type f with their shift kits n such.
I've never run anything but Chrysler's atf 3 and 4.
I wouldn't say one is right over the other, just depends on how it's built and the fluid viscosity characteristics of what was tested with the development of each companies shift kit/valve body band/clutch materials..so on n so on n on .
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
B&m requires or recommends type f with their shift kits n such.
I've never run anything but Chrysler's atf 3 and 4.
I wouldn't say one is right over the other, just depends on how it's built and the fluid viscosity characteristics of what was tested with the development of each companies shift kit/valve body band/clutch materials..so on n so on n on .
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I do have a B@M kit.... cool Deal! Thanks! Now in my Jeep, and the last Ram (02) I use the new stuff. I've heard bad things happen if you don't. Knew a gal had that happen to her in a 98 Ram
 
toolmanmike said:
Wow. Change the fluid and filter and forget about the mega gallon flush! You will be good for another 100,000 miles.
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I know, right? It's just a non issue unless the fluid's burnt and if it is, the transmission is probably comin out anyway.
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
B&m requires or recommends type f with their shift kits n such.
I've never run anything but Chrysler's atf 3 and 4.
I wouldn't say one is right over the other, just depends on how it's built and the fluid viscosity characteristics of what was tested with the development of each companies shift kit/valve body band/clutch materials..so on n so on n on .
Click to expand...
Yup, if you read the bottle of B&M Trick Shift is says "Ford Type F compatible" or some such. That's what it is. Ford Type F.
 
Dana67Dart said:
No argument there, i was just pointing out that you could drain and refill to a fully flushed system.

Auto repair shops have a system that sucks out the trans fluid as they replace it.

Dont know the cost or the % of old fluid that remains, but it is basically the same idea .
Click to expand...
You can also blow the old fluid out with compressed air.
 
Seems silly to have 1/2 new fluid & 1/2 old fluid.....
A simple way to drain the c'ter if it does not have a drain plug. Drill a 1/8" hole, use grease on the drill bit to collect metal. Let it drain. Once fully drained, rotate c'ter slightly so that hole is not at the bottom. Wipe area thoroughly with solvent. Install a pop rivet & smear with silicon to seal it.
 
For a complete fluid exchange you disconnect the cooling lines.
One is the "in line" to the trans and the other is the "out line" to the cooler.
Just need a few of feet of the proper sized rubber fuel line. Just measure what you will need.
Add the rubber lines to the ends of metal ones, long enough to put one in a bucket of clean fluid and the out line into an empty bucket.
Start it up and put it in neutral so the pump is working. Let it run until new fluid is coming out of the "out line".
Re-attach the trans lines and fill to the proper level using your FSM for the correct procedure> Very important to follow the Manual.
 
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