Auto to manual conversion

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$0.02 When Im looking at doing a big $$ swap for stuff like this, I look at ALL the stuff I need. Then I shop around and see if I can find a parts car with all of it in it. Say for instance you have a desire for an 8 3/4 next.....Might find a rusty wreck with a stick and a diff that check all the boxes.
Sounds like he's looking for a unicorn LOL...
 
I would argue that it's better to not permanently put the floor hump on. And I'd also argue that's integrity isn't affected if it's done right.. again I just put my floor hump down there when I got it and drew a line around the edge of it then I knew I could come in from that edge about 1 in and cut out the sheet metal... Then I took that thick sponge one side sticky window seal from home Depot and stuck it around the edge so when I put the hump on it's sealed.. then I put about a dozen self-tapping screws through that all the way around.. then on top of that goes the carpet... I have never had a problem with it... Every time I have taken my engine out I've peeled the carpet back undid those screws with my screw gun was able to reach the top transmission bolts with very little problem..
With the above side even one time I put an automatic in my car as I had aspirations of my wife drag racing as well know is able to take the floor hump out and do an automatic shifter and stuff and then actually put it back in. I just made a piece of sheet metal to cover the whole and riveted it down..
 
$0.02 When Im looking at doing a big $$ swap for stuff like this, I look at ALL the stuff I need. Then I shop around and see if I can find a parts car with all of it in it. Say for instance you have a desire for an 8 3/4 next.....Might find a rusty wreck with a stick and a diff that check all the boxes.
That does make perfect sense, however, I already have an 8 3/4. The guy I bought it from was setting up to put a 4 speed in it, but because I didn't know how to drive stick at the time, we sold it. Dumb move on our part, because now I love driving stick
 
That does make perfect sense, however, I already have an 8 3/4. The guy I bought it from was setting up to put a 4 speed in it, but because I didn't know how to drive stick at the time, we sold it. Dumb move on our part, because now I love driving stick
My 8 and 3/4 stood up to my four-speed for about 20 passes at the drag strip LOL.. starting from scratch you'll be the same money into a built Dana 60 and it will hold damn near anything you'll throw at it... Once you head up to Woodburn with some sticky slicks you'll find out your weak spots...
 
To be fair,
on the street only, with street tires;
my 3.55s (8.75) were new in the 70s. I would guess they have more than 300,000, miles on them, having been transferred from one Mopar to another, as the bodies fell apart.
They have suffered from 318s to 340s to 360s and currently are at home behind my 367HO. They have been mostly in A-bodies but for a year in a truck, and another few in a 360 C-body. Sometimes with an automatic but mostly with a 4-gear.
But they get fresh oil every now and then.
To be fair.
 
I love that MT console. Is the shifter different or just the stick/lever when using a console? I know on my old Nova you actually needed a different shifter or change the receiver to achieve the more centered offset with a console, but it appears there is only one shifter option for the A body?
 
I love that MT console. Is the shifter different or just the stick/lever when using a console? I know on my old Nova you actually needed a different shifter or change the receiver to achieve the more centered offset with a console, but it appears there is only one shifter option for the A body?

There is a "console specific shifter" I believe the mechanism at the trans remains the same but the handle changes.
 
I love that MT console. Is the shifter different or just the stick/lever when using a console? I know on my old Nova you actually needed a different shifter or change the receiver to achieve the more centered offset with a console, but it appears there is only one shifter option for the A body?
For 67 to 69, (which is all I know about), there were several options; as to sticks: one for consoles/one for no consoles; and then there's the Inland/Hurst option, each with it's own actual shift mechanism. And then there was the Aftermarket suppliers.
My favorite was the Mr.Gasket Bang! shifter. I still have mine circa 1971. It's a short straight stiff I-beam with 1/2-13 threads at the top. The adapter plate raises the mechanism, and the less convoluted rods are/were a lil bigger than the stock spaghetti-sticks . I moved mine back about 7 or 8 inches, then towards my leg, and finally,raised it up as high as it would go. And then fabricated some beefy rods. Since then, I have never missed a shift.
 
...........what goes into the swap...........

FWIW, Other than parts it's time and sweat. I did my '68 RR out in dad's driveway over a couple weeks while in HS. The auto hump for the B-body remained with a cutout alteration for the shifter and a little messaging for linkage clearance.
The A-body is tighter and the linkage is longer, so I believe you'll need to take the hump plunge. In your haste to get it done, take care to not remove too much floor and make absolutely certain you don't cut out your trans cross member!
The bell crank ball frame mount for these cars are cheesy IMO but should be fine for a good diaphragm clutch set. Try to find the "HD" peddle set if you go the standard mechanical clutch linkage with either the diaphragm or B&B. A "HD" B&B might need some firewall bracing as the spring load is increased.

 
Probably the most encompassing part of doing the swap is installing the floor hump. Do you have access to a welder and know how to modify floor boards? The ball pivot mount brace needs welded to the inner fender of driver side frame rail. With your 318 it might be drilled and might not be, the use of a Magnum engine roller pilot bearing that goes into the torque converter register is a must if it is not. You'll need to trim the input shaft on the trans by 3/8 to 1/2" if using the Magnum roller pilot.

I know this is an older thread now, but my input shaft had to be cut down a LOT more thatn 1/2" to use it on my Magnum 360 Motor.
 
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