Demon Electric choke

-

Mopar44134

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 20, 2011
Messages
725
Reaction score
797
Location
Ohio
I read somewhere, someone tapped one side of the voltage regulator for power. I did this and it is working but i'm uncomfortable having constant 12v to the choke. Someone else posted adding some sort of module to the choke. I dont know what its called but i happen to have one in my mopar only junk drawer. Picture below.

How does this module work? Does it shut off after a while? The way i see it, 12v heats up the choke coil, opening the choke. Once the motor is warm, engine heat will keep it open.

Any thoughts?

20211023_182905.jpg
 
Inside that choke controller are 2 of what is inside the mechanical gauge voltage limiters, resistor wire wrapped on bimetal beams. It controlled the voltage to a heating element like what is on a range. The thing wasn't weather tight so it could very well be rotten inside. FSM should say how to test it but I doubt it will operate a choke that is supposed to get 12 volts.
If I was going to add anything to a aftermarket choke it would be a timer like a rear defrost timer.
 
output is 10v. It did work. it does look like crap though. Thanks for the idea of defroster timer.
 
Is this question in regards to a "demon" brand carb? Or a choke that is installed on an A body demon...?

I would think a constant 12v would render it inop, as it would just be open...and it would drain your bat.

If its a key on 12v, that's how it's supposed to work... it heats the coil, and opens the choke over time.
 
Street Demon 625 carb in a 68 barracuda.
constant 12v would render it inop, as it would just be open...and it would drain your bat.

If its a run position 12v, that's how it's supposed to work... it heats the coil, and opens the choke over time.

There are unused 12v key on wires under the dash. So it works as intended. The only time you lose the 12v on some circuits, is crank, and you want it shut/off for that anyways.

If you just want it to be open/ inop...then I would zip tie it open.

Does that help?

Note there is not a wire that will show 12v in on, crank, and run....you need to source one that's on in the run position. So even if you have they key on for some reason, its not opening your choke until the car starts.

If you want to adjust how fast/slow the flap opens, that is done by rotating the plastic canister on the side. Don't take it off...just loosen the screws and spin it. Should have a plus and minus. Or fast/slow on it.
 
lol Well yeah, that's the simple way but defeats the purpose of going out and specifically buying a street carb with an electric choke.

I have 2 650 double pumpers and countless 600's without electric chokes. Its cooler here now, its nice hitting the peddle once and the car starts right now. Idles nice, after a few minutes bump the throttle, comes off high idle, idles nice.
 
its on a run circuit, voltage regulator.

constant 12v would render it inop, as it would just be open...and it would drain your bat.

If its a run position 12v, that's how it's supposed to work... it heats the coil, and opens the choke over time.

There are unused 12v key on wires under the dash. So it works as intended. The only time you lose the 12v on some circuits, is crank, and you want it shut/off for that anyways.

If you just want it to be open/ inop...then I would zip tie it open.

Does that help?

Note there is not a wire that will show 12v in on, crank, and run....you need to source one that's on in the run position. So even if you have they key on for some reason, its not opening your choke until the car starts.

If you want to adjust how fast/slow the flap opens, that is done by rotating the plastic canister on the side. Don't take it off...just loosen the screws and spin it. Should have a plus and minus. Or fast/slow on it.
 
That factory choke controller got its switched 12 volts from the same blue wire, only switched 12 volts in the engine bay.
 
-
Back
Top