Paint not setting up.

-
circlepilot

circlepilot

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 15, 2014
Messages
1,160
Reaction score
942
Location
El Dorado, Arkansas
It's been more than 24 hours ago that I shot some single stage gloss black on my dash board assembly. (removed) I'm not going to mention the brand of paint until I go by the paint store tomorrow. It is a high end, very expensive paint. 1/2 Pt. of urethane. 1/2 Pt. Hardener and a qt. of reducer cost right at 140.00. The mix ratio is 1 to 1. The mix only needed a pinch of reducer to get the spray viscosity just right. The data sheet for the paint shows an 8 hour pot life. Like I said, it's now well over 24 hours since I shot the paint and it has yet to be even be "tack free." The little bit that was left over hasn't even begun to gel. This is the first time I've used this particular product, but I've shot a lot of similar types of paint and I can't remember a urethane (mixed properly) doing this.
Norm
 
Never seen 1:1 SS. A lot of 4:1:1, 3:1:1 and 8:1:1. Something doesn’t sound right. That much hardener, it would set up in minutes. My 2 cents.
 
Sounds like something was mis-manufactured or there is a shelf life. I'm no expert, but I understand chemistry reasonably well. Can't imagine the reducer causing this problem, especially if bought from the same place at the same time, but that is a possibility.
 
Back in the 80s i had the engine compartment od a 68 mustand "professionally" painted by a shop.

They used a urathane. Years later if you set a tool on the painted area you would hear a snap when you picked the tool up..

The paint never fully cured.

Not much help to you. I would reread the instructions. Some times the mixture is by weight rather then by volume or visa versa
 
Never seen 1:1 either. Too much hardener will not harden faster but will not harden at all. Not enough for the hardener to glob onto. Will not ever dry.
Most basecoats are 1 to 1
 
Last edited:
Bodyperson said:
Never seen 1:1 either. Too much hardener will not harden faster but will not harden at all. Not enough for the hardener to glob onto. Will not ever dry.
Click to expand...

Correct. I should have clarified about “too much”. Thanks
 
Last edited:
Bodyperson said:
Product description says you needed to add 100 % BS *** to the base coat before the 1 to 1 hardener. https://www.paintdocs.com/docs/webPDF.jsp?SITEID=SWPCGAUTO&doctype=PDS&prodno=764423132600&lang=2
Click to expand...

I'm not using a "base coat system," it is a single stage top coat. No clear coat involved. Am I missing something here? I wanted the dash board to be durable...didn't want to do a "rattle can" job or shoot some straight acrylic and I didn't want to screw around with clear coat on a dash board. Relating that to the dealer, they said this was just the thing I needed. Ultra 7000 single stage top coat. It was the first time I stopped at the Sherwin Williams dealer. We have been spraying DuPont Emron and NASON Ful-Thane single stage we get from Crowe Burlingame and have never had a problem with it at our shop.
Norm
 
circlepilot said:
I'm not using a "base coat system," it is a single stage top coat. No clear coat involved. Am I missing something here? I wanted the dash board to be durable...didn't want to do a "rattle can" job or shoot some straight acrylic and I didn't want to screw around with clear coat on a dash board. Relating that to the dealer, they said this was just the thing I needed. Ultra 7000 single stage top coat. It was the first time I stopped at the Sherwin Williams dealer. We have been spraying DuPont Emron and NASON Ful-Thane single stage we get from Crowe Burlingame and have never had a problem with it at our shop.
Norm
Click to expand...
Basecoat does not always have to be topcoated. Especially in an interior application if using hardeners. Did you click the link? You were led astray in the products needed for the application. You omitted the base coat stabilizer
 
Last edited:
List the 3 product numbers and we might figure it out. That UH80 looks like high temp, so it will take longer in cool temp.
 
circlepilot said:
Well...we will just stop by Sherwin Williams on the way to the shop in the morning and let them educate me, as to why I may have a mess on my hands. :BangHead:
Click to expand...
Sherwin Williams is top of the line for sure. Print out that PDF I linked. Good wishes for your resolve.
 
my5thmopar said:
Never seen 1:1 SS. A lot of 4:1:1, 3:1:1 and 8:1:1. Something doesn’t sound right. That much hardener, it would set up in minutes. My 2 cents.
Click to expand...
Actually over catalysing something slows or stops the process.
 
Also what is the temperature? Anything under 60 degrees and that will basically stop any curing.
 
67Dart440GT said:
Also what is the temperature? Anything under 60 degrees and that will basically stop any curing.
Click to expand...

Where the dash was painted is insulated , the temp was probably around 70 with low humidity. It may have went down that evening to around 65. I don't think my paint room ever got below 65 during the past 3 nights, and definitely around 85 in there during the days. Anyway...up date. I went to the paint store yesterday and shared the problem with the "very" nice young lady that sold me the paint. I ran all of the information by her that I received here from everyone that responded to my post. I Showed her the print out of the link that BODYPERSON posted. She was kind of confused about using "stabilizer" in what I was spraying, as it was sold to me as a top coat. She had no real input as to why the paint was not curing. I left the store with "let me know how it turns out." Fast forward to today...The paint has finally cured to about what I would grade as about 98% cured. (the little left over in the can cured also.) As of tonight at 8 PM, makes a total 192 hours. Being that I'm not in that big of a hurry to start putting all the chrome back on the dash, (still polishing) it will probably be 100% cured when I install the chrome.
Finally...IMHO I think there was an issue with the hardener's chemistry.
Thanks to everyone for all of the input and information.
Norm
 
If you followed the mixing instructions, and it appears you did, I bet they will take care of it.
 
How warm is your shop, all catalyzed paint must stay above 70 degrees for at least 12 hours to kick. It might dry but it will not be catalyzed...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top