Video: Extending life of abrasive cut-off wheels

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67Dart273

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Or if you don't want to watch the entire thing skip to 2:00 watch part of "plunge cut" and then skip to "test 2" at about 2:55 "gouge test"

The results at least on this material, is dramatic



 
Holy **** looks like I've been using a cutoff wheel the wrong way the whole time....phuck it...learned something good today...Thanks!!
 
Who pays $6 for a cutoff wheel? I usually do a gouge cut to line up the path but I admit I usually power through that gouge cut with the wheel about 1" deep into the metal.
 
Who pays $6 for a cutoff wheel? I usually do a gouge cut to line up the path but I admit I usually power through that gouge cut with the wheel about 1" deep into the metal.
Yup, and keep her steady, not both hands as far back as possible

(Pretty much keep the fingers in the "no fly zone" of the disc)

I think that is a bigger factor then anything else
 
Plung cut is more accurate too. Easier to keep straight not that any of it is all that accurate.
 
Actually on the thin stuff he was cutting I don't know why he didn''t use a plasma. With a clamped on fence you can make nice straight cuts
 
Actually on the thin stuff he was cutting I don't know why he didn''t use a plasma. With a clamped on fence you can make nice straight cuts
Galvanized, Something ya really don`t want to cut with a torch or plasma.
The thin stuff he was cutting was track not a stud. Guys in the trade will use the big chop saws with of course abrasive blade. Then grinders to do notches or what ever.
Dust off that stuff is bad, worse with a torch.
I built my garage with structural metal studs, I`d never do it again.
 
Handheld bandsaw would be a better choice of cutoff tool
I have to think that people who make a living out of framing with steel studs just use hand shears. Mabey powered shears. Heat really messes with the product.
 
I have to think that people who make a living out of framing with steel studs just use hand shears. Mabey powered shears. Heat really messes with the product.
Shears are good for light, flat material. Anything that is thick, or has a bend in it, then you need a saw. Shears will distort the shape of the product
 
They do on interior light gauge stuff, exterior is heavy gauge, needs a saw.
Never worked with the stuff. In the video he is doing an interior wall. I didn't realize there was a difference. A wood stud on an interior wall is the same as a stud on an exterior wall though it probably does not have to be but is more of a dimension and stability thing that I can see steel offering in different gauges.
 
Never worked with the stuff. In the video he is doing an interior wall. I didn't realize there was a difference. A wood stud on an interior wall is the same as a stud on an exterior wall though it probably does not have to be but is more of a dimension and stability thing that I can see steel offering in different gauges.
Yeah, it can range from 22 to 12 gauge. Done that crap for about 8 years until the first
southern border invasion, and was priced out, went back to welding.
 
first, why clamp it so far from the cut? your asking for it to bounce around.
second, why clamp it with the rails down? again he's just making it it less secure.
:realcrazy:
 
Interesting video, thanks.
I seldom work with anything thinner than 1/8 plate, which is 10 gauge. I cut it with a torch, small tip, adjust both gas's appropriately. There are times when I will use cutoff wheels and some do last longer than others, usually a small piece of 1/8 or truck exhaust work or new box for heated bodies, that sort of thing, cut-off wheels are invaluable.....The more pressure you exert on blade the faster it will wear down, let the blade do the work.
I also use welding gloves and full face protection...I do use the what the video calls gouge, a lot of times just to give me a accurate line to follow
Always open to learning new things so I will give what was suggested a try
 
Also, their is quality differences between manufactures of cut wheels, grinding discs, flap wheels, wire wheels etc. You`ll pay more for the good stuff.
I bought a 20 pack for $10 or something. Used one and threw the rest away. Promptly went back to using walters. $100 for a pack of 20 or 25.
 
I am a retired Tile Setter and have always set the diamond blade height at minimum cut depth to complete the cut. If there was a depth gauge or stop that was used on a cut-off grinder, I'm sure the blade would last longer and a quicker cut. Not only will the blade last longer, but less chance of binding, which is the reason for rapid ware and blade exploding.
 
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