TTI 340 headers install

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Eric Pearson

Eric Pearson

73purpule duster
FABO Gold Member
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Hello everyone, I’m getting ready to install tti 340 long tube headers in my 73 Duster. While the engine is out I’m considering power steering. So my question is does anyone have a 73 duster with a 360 and factory power steering with these headers installed. And if so did you have any problems with this installation. And do you have any advice on this matter. Thanks for all the help
 
I do.not, but I do know, that some Headers, are designed for Manual applications only.. not sure in your case.
 
Eric Pearson said:
Hello everyone, I’m getting ready to install tti 340 long tube headers in my 73 Duster. While the engine is out I’m considering power steering. So my question is does anyone have a 73 duster with a 360 and factory power steering with these headers installed. And if so did you have any problems with this installation. And do you have any advice on this matter. Thanks for all the help
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The instruction sheet should tell you if it will fit with p/s or check their website.
 
I did look on the website. The said that would not work with the firm feel quick ratio pitman arm but they are very vague
 
I would Call' em before you proceed, just to be sure you don't have an issue... especially at the last minute, when you wanna get her cranking out Mopar Power!
 
Right on! I'm fixing to do the opposite. Going from Power to manual. Dropped the motor and Trans in from the top ( 340, 727, 74 Duster) w/ power steering and brakes.... Tight, tight.... oh and an 8 qt pan... we did it, but, the language. Well, it was , outside, in the sun, in Tampa Bay, about June of last year, in my old dirt/ crumbled asphalt drive by the swamp I don't know how many times we removed the PS box mounts and twisted, turned, fought, with it. Had some clearance issues. Lol. Glad you got TTI..
 
Would you happen to have any pictures of the headers installed with the power steering gearbox installed? And where you able to use the factory type steering coupler?
 
The instructions are not vage. If you have a firm feel quick ratio box and arm, it won’t fit.
If your stock, it fits. If it didn’t fit a stock set up, it would say “No P/S.”
Eric Pearson said:
I did look on the website. The said that would not work with the firm feel quick ratio pitman arm but they are very vague
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I talked to Firm Feel about their Pittman arm. They said it was something like 3/4" longer than the stock one. On my car, that would put it in direct contact with the head pipe. It's tight right there.
 
Eric Pearson said:
Would you happen to have any pictures of the headers installed with the power steering gearbox installed? And where you able to use the factory type steering coupler?
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Well, in my first response, I mentioned I have not used those, in that application, so I'm Not Qualified to give you an answer. There is ALOT of experience here though! The story I shared, was, perhaps, off topic, similar car, different headers. So it was kind of a moot point. The reason for my first comment was because I got a Killer Deal, on some Headers, but they were not gonna fit for P/S
 
Their website instructions are pretty clear and spells out quite a bit
 
I have used TTi headers on both my 75 Dart Sport 360 and 70 Dart, also a 360. Both cars are p/s equipped and both fit without any clearance issues. As long as the motor is in the factory correct location you should be fine.
 
Thanks for the insight. The motor on mine is in the stock location. Would you be able to send me a picture of the installation if possible?. And are you using the factory coupler?
 
Eric Pearson said:
Thanks for the insight. The motor on mine is in the stock location. Would you be able to send me a picture of the installation if possible?. And are you using the factory coupler?
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These are the only ones I have on my phone at the moment, not very clear, will try to get more after work if it's not too dark. All the steering linkage is factory.
 
I have a 68 Barracuda, with a K-member from a 70 Duster, steering from a 73 Dart, and a late PowerSteering box from an unknown source, with standard 73up steering arms.
The engine is a 71-360 with a Milodon roadrace pan, the trans is a Commando A833, the guts from a 65, and with all standard 1969 340 type clutch linkage.
I used the 73 up rear trans mount for the spool locator.
The engine was shimmed up about 1/4 " per side, plus another 1/4 on the driver's side to get away from the P/S box. The TTI headers were a tight fit, but everything slipped together real nice......
Except:
on the driver's side;
I found out after the engine was in, that the 72 and down steering would not fit without some bullchit pounding. But the 73 up stuff was good to go, with minor interference at the pitman arm.
No problems whatsoever to the column, which was the original manual steering, auto trans/console-shift item, length-adjusted to fit the P/S box by shearing the nylon rivets.
Minor clearancing at the Power-steering box.
On the passenger side,
install a shorty oil filter on the pad without the 90* adapter; you'll thank me for that tip one day.
and then ......
At the top
a Holley 750DP on an AirGap intake, pushed the factory air-cleaner lid right into the hood. No problem, the jig-saw took care of that in just a few minutes and the bonus is I now have a true fresh-air intake.......
Oh, I almost forgot
at the back
this job is a stinking lot easier if you take the T-bars out before you start. You're gonna have to anyway, to clearance at least one pipe, so it don't rattle on the bar, lol.
Tips
use the thickest darn manifold gaskets you can find, which may spread the headers enough to clear 318 T-bars . Install them/torque 'em/ forget about them for ten years or more.
Do TTIs fit perfect? Not on my car! But what header would?
 
Wow thanks so much for the pictures and the awesome insight to this job that’s ahead of me
 
The TTI left side header has a slip joint pipe to clearance the torsion bar? No torsion bar removal required. (My torsion bars are red you can see the pipe wrapped around it)

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You know how long it takes to suck those T-bars out? About 3 minutes on my alignment rack...
It will make the job so much more enjoyable. This is a convenience thing.
When that driver's side pipe just barely fits in there and then starts banging on things, that you gotta take it out, three or more times, to get the dings in all the right places, if that Stinking T-bar is still in there, you are bound to get mighty cranky. And then, and then just when you think yur done, after a spin around the block, you come to find out the header is rattling on the darn T-bar........ aw man, you need one more ding but now it'll have to wait until the header cools off.
And then you will remember what ol' AJ said ............... And:BangHead: on the two-day header install; I'm saying to take the T-bar out for convenience and to save time.
While I'm mouthing off, and talking about convenience, OP;
you might as well drop the steering, take out the battery, and pull the starter. You don't need to; it's a convenience thing, and will do wonders for your irritability.
And do yourself a favor, the mini starter pops right in there; whereas the 1000pound factory starter has absolutely no desire to go in there, even with the steering-stuff not in the way. And there's that dang T-bar again....... and put a stud in the bottom hole to make your life easier too; starter can't fall on your face, when yur laying on your back in the driveway next winter, at 20 below....... cuz for some reason, starters like to puke when it gets cold out,lol.
 
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