nitrous problem

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aaronk785

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I recently put a nitrous kit on my 340. Its been working well until last week. When I acctivate the microswitch it falls on its face now. Like its out of nitrous. I checked both solenoids they seem to be working fine. Pulled the carb and hit it and the plate seem to be putting out plenty of nitrous and gas. Runs awesome on motor only. Unplugged the proggresive controller used a relay. Same thing.. The only thing i changed was the timing by 2 degrees and a fresh bottle. I'm stumped. Bottle at 950 psi
 
I don't think so cause i have a heater and run at 950 bottle pressure regardless. But thanks for your answer.
 
I would unplug the fuel solenoid, and see what the nitrous spray looks like. I'm stumped like you. Instant thought was no nitrous delivery, but you say it's good.
Edit: simple test... put the timing back to where it was.
 
I've done the nitrous solenoid alone and it looked strong. I will try the timing tommarow Thanks.
 
2 degrees which way? Two more or two less. Cause two degrees too many if you’re on the edge will cause a problem. What do the plugs look like?
 
Check fuel pressure, check all n20 orifices are clean by disassembly/inspection ( do you have a filter?), change plugs, try a different bottle, change coil wire& coil in that order.

If it was lean it would shoot ducks or put your hoodscoop on the staiway to heaven. Rich or no gas it willfall on its face.

Do you have the ability to verify AFR?
 
Check fuel pressure, check all n20 orifices are clean by disassembly/inspection ( do you have a filter?), change plugs, try a different bottle, change coil wire& coil in that order.

If it was lean it would shoot ducks or put your hoodscoop on the staiway to heaven. Rich or no gas it willfall on its face.

Do you have the ability to verify AFR?
My next move. No afr. I'll start checking in the mourning. Thanks
 
My next move. No afr. I'll start checking in the mourning. Thanks
I know they've got a f gages that you don't even need to weld they just have a band that seals up around the pipe.
Extremely handy piece of equipment for what you're doing and relatively inexpensive..
 
If setting the timing back didn’t affect it, then you’ve probably gotten some grit or trash in the supply line on the bottle you started having problems with (maybe even moisture freezing in the supply line?). I would look at plumbing the bottle up to back blow the supply solenoid and the feed line/nitrous filter (if you have a nitrous filter).
 
Post 8. What do the plugs look like? What is the “dynamic” fuel pressure on the nitrous side? Do you even have separate fuel supply? You can guess all day what’s wrong but you need to start diagnosing it properly. And I’d suggest not continuing to make nitrous passes until you find something.
 
Are you using any electronics as an ignition retard or just manually pulling the timing back?
 
would it ever be as simple as the bottle turned the wrong way and the siphon tube pointed up ? probably not but it could happen maybe .
 
Manual retard. Flowing fuel pressure is 9lbs. System calls for 8 to 10. Stand alone fuel system for nitrous with 110 in fuel cell. Plugs show no detonation but look a little rich. Line on ground strap looks good.
 
Ok now we’re getting somewhere. If it’s rich it will just lay over and not gain rpm when you hit the button. If it’s not flowing nitrous your bottle pressure won’t change after a run. I would crack a nitrous line just before the solenoid and have someone crack open the bottle valve. Then verify clean voltage at the solenoid when activated. Then hook the whole system up and activate the nitrous side through the plate. If all looks good, put a new set of plugs in it and go test. I might drop a pound of fuel pressure from 9 to 8 as a test for the first run also.
 
Do the tests TT5.9mag suggested.
Both times this happened to me it ended up being the nitrous solenoid itself. My system would stay on the car while it sat over the winter, then it would not work with same symptoms the next summer. Solenoid seamed to bench test ok but replacing it fixed the problem, like it only failed to open while engine is running.
Now when my car sits for the winter I remove the plate and solenoids and store them in the house and problem never happened again.
 
Thanks everyone. I will run the test suggested and let you know the outcome. I’m starting to think solenoid too.
 
Either bad nos solenoid and it’s spraying straight fuel or your nos provider has a bad set up and your bottles are being pumped full of air and I know it sounds crazy but have seen it happen
 
Think I have a bad nitrous solenoid coil. It is cracked down the middle hole and leaked a little oil or something out. Hope thats it. Will order a replacement.
 
OK. I feel pretty dumb. I’m new to nitrous and it shows. I had no idea that the inlet fitting on the nitrous solenoid was a filter/screen. It was 80 percent blocked. So nitrous could get through but was weak. Cleaned it and will test tomorrow. Hope this fixes it. Thanks to everyone.
 
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