Howads Cams Lobe List...

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No need for a custom cam. Off the shelf Hughes flat tappet solid. It’s not a 4” stroker either.
Right lane car # 8479.

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79410aspenrt said:
No need for a custom cam. Off the shelf Hughes flat tappet solid. It’s not a 4” stroker either.
Right lane car # 8479.

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Agree. Know what you want, know what you need, look for an existing catalog grind, might find exactly what you’re looking for, or one close enough. So says David Vizard. If nothing then go custom. These days most of the cam companies will have to grind it after you order it so it never was a “shelf cam” and they are using lobe profiles from their master lobe list anyways! And the wait is the same. But.....one of their catalog cams will typically cost much less than “custom” and depending on where (vendor) you source it from sometimes you can get it discounted :thumbsup:
 
12many said:
Agree. Know what you want, know what you need, look for an existing catalog grind, might find exactly what you’re looking for, or one close enough. So says David Vizard. If nothing then go custom. These days most of the cam companies will have to grind it after you order it so it never was a “shelf cam” and they are using lobe profiles from their master lobe list anyways! And the wait is the same. But.....one of their catalog cams will typically cost much less than “custom” and depending on where (vendor) you source it from sometimes you can get it discounted :thumbsup:
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The outfits that supply my cams dont have shelf grinds...all custom to my needs. $212.00 for a Mopar 904 grind. Most shelf grinds are on Chevy .842 cores....you give up way too much. A 904 flat tappet is almost as good a performer as a roller. Few Chevy racers even use .842 cores....904, .937 and 1.00 are common. But they have to use a larger core which we already have.

Takes a 55mm or larger core for those .937 and up cores...the R3 has that covered.
 
Of course "off the shelf" cams work. They were designed around a general parameter for each makes design characteristics and for specific applications. Simply put..They arent grinding and stocking their shelves with bumpy turdsticks. The custom grind cam is more the tuner, the place you tweak specs for things that arent general or typical..like compression. Closing that intake ,getting that lift, using that running gear,intake,header etc..
So you build app specific and in the guidelines of equipment required..and it's not gonna be too far off from the desired result. +/- . I buy mopar specific lobes if off the shelf. Fwiw & jmo
 
Scody21 said:
I’m running a Howard’s. The cost for a custom ground is only a few dollars more.
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I've looked into custom ground cams before and from the way it was explained to me I think that it's a excellent idea. It's only a few dollars more than a ots cam. And you can get the most out of your combination.
 
Krooser said:
The outfits that supply my cams dont have shelf grinds...all custom to my needs. $212.00 for a Mopar 904 grind. Most shelf grinds are on Chevy .842 cores....you give up way too much. A 904 flat tappet is almost as good a performer as a roller. Few Chevy racers even use .842 cores....904, .937 and 1.00 are common. But they have to use a larger core which we already have.

Takes a 55mm or larger core for those .937 and up cores...the R3 has that covered.
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Only thing I’d question is your definition of “way too much” and how that applies to various builds and intended uses. How much does it translate in car lengths, track seconds, track Mph, what difference are we talking? To many variables IMO. Me? If I want fast rate I’m going roller. But that’s irrelevant. I replied to an other poster mentioning depending on the specs I want I first would scan any listed catalog cams and if there was nothing that came close naturally I would go custom. That’s all I’m saying.
 
You guys have way more knowledge than I as to cam grinds and what to get for specific applications, impressed. That said, the 360, for the Duster in signature (many years out before it'll be anywhere near running) that I had sold to a Navy buddy back in 86 (entire well running car) and reacquired in 95 (then not running and presently a shell, only thing left in/on it is rear glass) long story. Anyhow, while he had it he decided to rebuild the engine, not sure why? After I had it in storage for many years, probably around 2011 I decided to begin disassembly of the car (needs full floor, lower 1/4 sections and so forth) I tore the engine down for inspection (must have not cleaned block after machining = metal shards left in block, oil pump vanes scared, bearings near wiped - crank, pistons, cylinders good, needs bearings yada, yada) I noticed it had a Purple Stick (MoPar cam) not sure how to see what it is, didn't notice any numbers on the ends, but has several different paint colors on the stick in different areas. Does Direct Connection still even exist, how can I find out (Layman's terms please) what it actually is?
Plan for this engine is, hone cylinders, polish crank, new rings & bearings and get it running (well after metal, paint & body are done). If it blows then big block time.

He said he put 2.02 valves in the heads but, I haven't micrometer'ed the valves so who knows. Biggest mistake he made, other than not properly cleaning the block before he assembled, at least in my opinion was having a friend - who only ever worked on GMs - no offense - help him put it together and get it running, which is why I feel he said he had 2.02 valves installed in the heads...

Thanks.
 
Garrett Ellison said:
This describes how to measure lobe lift, which should get you close enough to cross reference what you have.
Lunati Cam Spec Terms
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Yes, using this method you should be able to determine which Mopar grind it is. There were different center lines to the same lift and duration camshafts available. Most of them being on a 108 but some were 106's and a few 110 on the old cams.
 
Thanks guys, I'll save links. It won't be till late spring before I can even think of car. Pecking away at renovation on new home.
 
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