Does Anyone gather anything from the numbers that I see?
I get Night in 1965 and that's about it...
Anything Else?
I get Night in 1965 and that's about it...
Anything Else?
1965 engine code decipher
- Thread starter eekvonzipper
- Start date
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pishta
I know I'm right....
Thats all that it will tell you. 273 were plain jane, even the hi-po had the same block and heads. Your 65 heads are different than 66 and later though, your intake wont fit later heads as the bolts changed size and angle.
Hi-Po just had a taller crowned Piston then and that's it?
Dual point distributor, 4bl intake and I believe stiffer valve springs and domed pistons. Then the valve covers.
Ahh, Yes. The Dual Point. Okay Thanks Fabo Brethren!
And a bigger cam. (not by much) Lol
Oh? Well, There's the Real Change!
Does anyone have any Specs on the Two Cams used?
I have a 2-bbl non HiPo... Thinking about a Freshen up w/o changing the cam because there's too damn many of them!
It's gonna stay a stock Piston 2Bbl with Single Point and a Dual 2" Exhaust and 4-Speed (from 3-on-the-tree)
Idunno what the hell cam to choose for that other than the one that's in there?
If you want to stay solid lifter like the original, there are very few choices. Most of us use the Isky E4 whish is a good replacement for the stock cam regardless of 2 or 4 barrel.
Racer Brown will grind a small solid cam for you also.
Isky, Racer Brown, Schneider all have good performing replacements.
I run a Racer Brown in mine. It runs and sounds great just like Jim told me it would.
I picked up a custom grind Schneider mechanical lifter cam that has a bit more lift and duration than the Racer Brown a while back from Gary P.. I may give it a go at some point if I pull the engine again.
Best advice I got to call and talk to one or all of them and they can help find one for your compression, Trans, gear and aspiration.
i decided to go with a hydraulic cam in my 66 Commando and after talking with Jim at Racer Brown, he ground a cam specifically for my build. I hope to get started on the engine soon
pishta
I know I'm right....
You can drop in a hydraulic with new lifters. No other change from a solid lifter 'cept the pushrods. But there really is no reason to go hydro on this motor as it already has mechanical rockers and the idle quality and sound from the factory mechanical cam is very docile. Adjusting valves is a 1 year event (maybe) and its is simple. I had a stock 65 S 273-4 with an auto and power steering (!) and it ran like a dream...even on its polyglass tires.
No Way I'm Going to Hydro... I don't know why anyone ever would.
I'll look into Racer Brown and the E-4 tho
Thanx to All!
I'll look into Racer Brown and the E-4 tho
Thanx to All!
I haven't touched this for 2 or 3 years. Next spring time for some new plugs, points (2 sets), a valve adjustment, and timing and carb set.
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/7l1VmIhZ3yk
Two barrel cam was 240 duration (advertised), four barrel was 248. Lift for the four barrel was .415 intake, .425 exhaust. My memory is that the two barrel lift was a bit less than .400.
Back in the day I put a TRW solid lifter cam, 284 duration, .426/.422 lift, in my Commando 273. Lotsa duration, not much lift, but it sure woke that little 273 up. Nice rumpity-rump idle, too.
Looking like Solid Lifters cost More than a Cam does?
Where do I get this stuff from?
Is Mix and Match okay for them or not?
If you buy an Isky E-4 must you also get the Isky Solid Lifters too?
Where do I get this stuff from?
Is Mix and Match okay for them or not?
If you buy an Isky E-4 must you also get the Isky Solid Lifters too?
I bought mine together as a set. Cam+lifters
Was it $500 dollars?
Last edited:
cudamark
Well-Known Member
From what I can decipher, it looks like the block casting mold had 6 changes, the date looks like March 25, 1965 at night. Some of those number are a bit clogged though, so, they may be 6's, 8's, etc. What is stamped on the left front of the block up by the head gasket? Should be A273 and maybe other numbers stamped around that area.
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