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Upper and Lower Ball Joint Replacement
- Thread starter dodgedart1968
- Start date
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dodgedart1968
Well-Known Member
I just received my 1 59/64 in. socket and it appears to be too big for the upper ball joint. It fits loose and sloppy, and I'm concerned that it will deform the ball joint. My car has 9" brakes. I just reviewed the posting responses, and I realized that I did not receive an answer regarding the socket size. My mistake for ordering the socket prematurely. What is the correct socket size?
Last edited:
You should measure and order accordingly.
dodgedart1968
Well-Known Member
I'll do that. How do you measure the size? Is it from flat to flat across the ball joint?
I've always understood that there are two sizes for the upper ball joint socket - one for A bodies through 1972, and the other for B bodies and 73-up A bodies (at least the ones with the four and one half inch bolt circle). I have never worked on a C body, so don't know what they would use.
For the pre-73 A bodies, that holds for 9 and 10 inch drums and disc brakes, all of which use the same upper control arm. Anyway, I have two different sizes. From flat to flat, one is approximately 1 7/8 inches (measured with a tape measure, so that's an approximate measure) and the other two inches.
Note that an A body ball joint fits a bit loosely even in the smaller socket. It will work, however.
For the pre-73 A bodies, that holds for 9 and 10 inch drums and disc brakes, all of which use the same upper control arm. Anyway, I have two different sizes. From flat to flat, one is approximately 1 7/8 inches (measured with a tape measure, so that's an approximate measure) and the other two inches.
Note that an A body ball joint fits a bit loosely even in the smaller socket. It will work, however.
1968 Dart: REMOVE THE TENSION ON THE TORSION BAR!!!!!!
If the lower control arm slips off what you have it resting on, the torsion bar will unspin faster than you can blink, and if it does, you better hope your head doesn't get in the way.
One bolt for each bar to take all the tension off. Should have done it while the lower control arm was still connected to the upper via the spindle. At this point I'm not sure if it would be better to try to hook up the spindle before loosening the bolt, or staying as far out of the way as you can and loosening the bolt as it sits now. Thinking probably the latter.
bcschief
Well-Known Member
I think he is ok he has jack stands under the frame rails. But even still don't get under the vehicle. Also I would prefer a floor jack under that arm.
dodgedart1968
Well-Known Member
Mine measures 1 7/8" as well, so I'll proceed with the socket I purchased. I thoroughly cleaned the top of the ball joint, and had it soaking in penetrant for several days. I also have a four foot breaker bar extension handle.
In regard to the torsion bar concern, the car is secure on jack stands and one lower control arm is on a bottle jack, the other is on a floor jack. I'll further secure the bottle jack arrangement by adding another floor jack. In future I'll know to unload the torsion bar before proceeding.
Thx for the assistance and concern.
Scamp Rhonda
Well-Known Member
So, did you get the ball joints out and the new ones in?
I just did mine on the 72 Scamp. Used the same size socket also. It was definitely a bit loose. But it worked. That was a lot of work especially for someone our age. The right side one broke loose using a four foot breaker bar and had to keep using that bar until it was almost completely unscrewed. Tried the same thing on the other side and it wouldn't brake loose at all. Next step was to heat up the control arm around the ball joint. Should have done that first. It broke loose and turned off easily. Moral to the story, use heat unless you're young and dumb and full of,....... You know
Ironracer
Gearhead
Correct! Those hard working Mopar Trucks need love too!!! And, all the ones I've had, handled great!
Ironracer
Gearhead
When I did the Duster , a few months ago, I may have done it Wrong! Support frame, and UN LOADED bars W /Adj screw.. letting suspension hang... popped upper loose, then Tor Bars slid right back...
bcschief
Well-Known Member
That works also I was just trying to shorten up the process and not messing with the ride height adjustment. But use good jack stands on the frame and I would prefer a floor jack under the lower control arm and do not get under the vehicle. If the lower control arm needs to be rebushed then your way is the only answer.
Ironracer
Gearhead
Yessir. Had Poly in there when I got her from my Bro, not knocking anything, but.., in FL, it ain't all that... wanted to go w/ Pete's Delrin, cost was a factor, and I heard decent things about Proforged Rubber... I did use poly mounts, mill and Trans, and a rear spring kit, but looking at the crap I pulled outta the front end? There has gotta be a better way... that crap was dried up, egg shaped, crushed and crumbled trash..
dodgedart1968
Well-Known Member
I got them out. Kind of scary with the poorly-sized socket. I had the same experience as you; I needed the breaker bar until the upper was almost completely out. Glad that using heat made the second one easier for you. Do you have the new uppers in yet?So, did you get the ball joints out and the new ones in?
I just did mine on the 72 Scamp. Used the same size socket also. It was definitely a bit loose. But it worked. That was a lot of work especially for someone our age. The right side one broke loose using a four foot breaker bar and had to keep using that bar until it was almost completely unscrewed. Tried the same thing on the other side and it wouldn't brake loose at all. Next step was to heat up the control arm around the ball joint. Should have done that first. It broke loose and turned off easily. Moral to the story, use heat unless you're young and dumb and full of,....... You know
Scamp Rhonda
Well-Known Member
Yes, the uppers went in easy compared to coming out. Still a lot of work tightening them up. I tightened them up as best as I could and then put a torque wrench on them. Each one was about 125 ft lbs like the factory calls for so I don't think they're coming out soon! They are just hanging there now because I just got the lower ones in the mail to put in. I'm pretty sore right now but like I said if I'd have used heat right away it would have went a lot better.
Scody21
Just send it
It is super dangerous to use jacks to keep the LCA under tension while taking it all apart. It’s a good way to lose a finger or worse...
It’s only about 10 turns of the adjuster bolt to release the tension from the T-bars. Use a paint pen, make the bolt head with a line. Then count how many time you back it out.
There is a Mopar ball joint socket combo on Amazon for like 35 bucks.
As for removal, impact gun with short bursts is where it’s at...
It’s only about 10 turns of the adjuster bolt to release the tension from the T-bars. Use a paint pen, make the bolt head with a line. Then count how many time you back it out.
There is a Mopar ball joint socket combo on Amazon for like 35 bucks.
As for removal, impact gun with short bursts is where it’s at...
Magnum Valiant
Well-Known Member
An impact wrench works great.So, did you get the ball joints out and the new ones in?
I just did mine on the 72 Scamp. Used the same size socket also. It was definitely a bit loose. But it worked. That was a lot of work especially for someone our age. The right side one broke loose using a four foot breaker bar and had to keep using that bar until it was almost completely unscrewed. Tried the same thing on the other side and it wouldn't brake loose at all. Next step was to heat up the control arm around the ball joint. Should have done that first. It broke loose and turned off easily. Moral to the story, use heat unless you're young and dumb and full of,....... You know
harrisonm
Well-Known Member
That sounds like one of those "lessons best learned the hard way" events. What hurt the most? Your butt or your pride. And most importantly, did anybody see it?
Scamp Rhonda
Well-Known Member
Yeah, I tried an impact and the ball joint just laughed at me! I was kinda worried I was gonna wreck the socket too. Heat worked well this time. I'll I definitely try the impact again next time.
dodgedart1968
Well-Known Member
My impact didn't do the job. I used a four-foot breaker bar. I didn't try heat, but that sounds like the way to go.
You need a REAL strong 1/2 inch impact to remove most upper ball joints in a car that had them in there for decades.
BUT.
If you worked at a heavy duty truck repair shop that uses 3/4 inch air guns, ball joints come out easy peasy.
Those impacts have a lot of kick to them.
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Pride and the fact I knew better!
Was in to much of rush to deliver the car for resto!!!
Cuda Al
Well-Known Member
Recently I removed a pair of upper ball joints (large) on a 1969 Polara, took the control arms into work and locked them in a vice, 3/4 impact, wonka wonka wonka they came out, wasn't easy but they kept moving.
Alan
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
The problem with impacts is anytime you have something that gives or flexes a bit. Examples are (as you found) and rear U bolts after they get a bit loose, and long or more than one or thin drive extensions.
bcschief
Well-Known Member
When I worked as a heavy truck mechanic I had an IR244 If I had to replace it I would have bought an IR Thundergun. Also had a IR261 3/4 drive gun.
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