Correct paint color for a 1970 Dart 8 3/4 axle assembly

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Definitely Semi Gloss Black. If you have a compressor and spray gun, get some semi gloss black with hardener and spray away. If you do not have spray equipment, I would highly recommend Eastwood's 2K Ceramic Satin Chassis Black paint. The spray cans have a button on the bottom that, when smacked, releases the hardener inside the can. The result is a high quality, hardened paint that looks great. The cans have a great spray pattern too. I do have spray equipment, but I have used the Eastwood chassis black before. It works great.
2K Aero-Spray Ceramic Chassis Black Paint – Eastwood
 
My dad bought a new 69 Coronet R/T track pack new in 69 for my sister. I ended up with the car when she got a new 71 Duster . The Dana rear in 2 years in the R/T was solid rust as was the 4 speed and the drive shaft. If it was painted it only lasted a year.
I paint everything on cars I redo. My Demon everything will be powder coated. Who cares what they were. They are only original once. If you recoat them its only to hide and prevent the rust and then its not original anyway.
RIGHT! That's why I scratch my head at people who do no;t intend on selling ever and they do not fix a car up like THEY want it. Strange. But to each his own.
 
I was showing somebody old pics of my Dart and they wanted to know why my rear end housing was white... I'd forgotten all about it - late 1970s/early 80s we all put in airshocks, pumped them up and painted the now exposed rear end housing white. Why? Hell if I remember, we just all did it! Maybe we were showing off the 8 3/4 after trashing the 7 1/4 it came with...
Look at some of Ronnie Sox's cars through the years. Totally white undercarriages.
 
I'll let the fire rage. I'm thinking if a total sandblast, and a POR-15 semi gloss. My thanks to all. Paul.
 
I'll let the fire rage. I'm thinking if a total sandblast, and a POR-15 semi gloss. My thanks to all. Paul.
Tape off every screw hole . You will not believe how much sand gets in the car and very hard to get out.

Back in the 80's I sand blasted a Duster shell and blew it out real good with air. I then sold the car due to my fathers death and I bought it back in 2010 and put it on a rotisserie.

When turning the car on the rotisserie you would not believe how much sand was still in the car and came out. We turned it and blew it out for a whole day and got at least a half a bucket out of it. In the rockers , cowl, roof braces, everywhere. Just a heads up. I still sand blast the rust on many cars but only what is needed. Use crushed glass not sand less warpage and coarseness is done to the metal. Also blows out easier

If you ever blast in the evening the blaster looks like your torching the metal off with sand.

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I'll let the fire rage. I'm thinking if a total sandblast, and a POR-15 semi gloss. My thanks to all. Paul.
POR15 peels off clean metal in time. Use epoxy on clean metal. Chassis Saver on Rust. POR15 is a thing of the past. It is good for an old rusted wheel barrow.
 
POR is good for what it is intended to be used for. P.O.R. Paint-Over-Rust
 
I have wondered why people can spend so much time trying to determine the exact amount of flattener in black for like this rear end, to make it exactly like came from Mother Mopar, and then shoot the body with b/cc!!!!!! and wet sand an buff that to an inch of it life!??? lol..:rofl::poke::poke: Get my point!??:poke:
 
Tape off every screw hole . You will not believe how much sand gets in the car and very hard to get out.

Back in the 80's I sand blasted a Duster shell and blew it out real good with air. I then sold the car due to my fathers death and I bought it back in 2010 and put it on a rotisserie.

When turning the car on the rotisserie you would not believe how much sand was still in the car and came out. We turned it and blew it out for a whole day and got at least a half a bucket out of it. In the rockers , cowl, roof braces, everywhere. Just a heads up. I still sand blast the rust on many cars but only what is needed. Use crushed glass not sand less warpage and coarseness is done to the metal. Also blows out easier

If you ever blast in the evening the blaster looks like your torching the metal off with sand.

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Be very careful using crushed glass, you don't want that **** in your lungs. Use a charcoal filter mask, even when sweeping up dust from it.

A filtered pressurized air suit is best.
 
All of the places near me have switched to crushed glass. Apparently it doesn't heat the metal up as well and comes in 2 different size particles.
 
My thanks to all member who've contributed. Since is isn't installed yet, I'll scrub, pressure wash it, and either soda blast or sand blast it, and hit it with a satin black epoxy paint. Again, thanks to all. Paul.
 
Be very careful using crushed glass, you don't want that **** in your lungs. Use a charcoal filter mask, even when sweeping up dust from it.

A filtered pressurized air suit is best.
I worked at Boeing for 22 years. I know how important PPE is. I've used Nasty stuff like MEK and worse. I appreciate your warning. You're a smart man.
 
Could you elaborate, please? Maybe I need to update.

All I know is the two places near me that sand blast switched to crushed glass. There are two different size glass they use, a course and a fine. I asked about why they went to glass and they said it doesn't heat up metal and warp it like sand does.
 
Not sure if previously mentioned to the OP but a GOOD oven cleaner does real well in cleaning rear ends. I admit I have never lived in the rust belt, but I have restored countless Mopars and never had to blast a rear end to clean and paint one. Also a 3-4 in. wire cup on a right angle grinder will do a lot.
 
General thought based on Factory examples.

Satin Black and natural center.

I used satin Epoxy from Summit and pleased. I also used stainless epoxy from Eastwood for the center and pleased.

I recorded all the paint marks in Yellow/Blue and White on the axle, center and springs. Does it matter?

Likely not but to me!
 
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