Gauge voltage and Fuel relay with AA classic install
You cannot really measure the gauge supply voltage because the original "regulator" is a pulsating deal like a turn flasher. The gauges react so slow that they do not show the flashes. Seems to be "equivalent" to 5-6V
The way to check them is supply 12V to the proper cluster connection, and put known resistor at each of the gauge sender terminals. They should all read the same with same resistance.
If the cluster is out, or if you are inclined to take it out, I'd "go through" it. Check/ repair the harness connector pins on the circuit board, add a grounding pigtail from the cluster, and loosen/ tighten the gauge stud nuts (or replace nuts) to "scrub" the PC traces clean where the nuts bite, and clean the lamp sockets and board etc etc.
If you can now would be a good time to replace the instrument regulator with a solid state one. This is a bit of a trick, as you have to disable the one IN the fuel gauge, mount the new one externally, and then jumper power in through one of the gauge studs. The gauge has a 12V power in stud which feeds TO the IVR, 5V "out" stud which feeds the regulator output to the other gauges. THAT is where you jumper the 5V INTO that stud to power the fuel gauge. The 3rd is of course the sender terminal
You cannot really measure the gauge supply voltage because the original "regulator" is a pulsating deal like a turn flasher. The gauges react so slow that they do not show the flashes. Seems to be "equivalent" to 5-6V
The way to check them is supply 12V to the proper cluster connection, and put known resistor at each of the gauge sender terminals. They should all read the same with same resistance.
If the cluster is out, or if you are inclined to take it out, I'd "go through" it. Check/ repair the harness connector pins on the circuit board, add a grounding pigtail from the cluster, and loosen/ tighten the gauge stud nuts (or replace nuts) to "scrub" the PC traces clean where the nuts bite, and clean the lamp sockets and board etc etc.
If you can now would be a good time to replace the instrument regulator with a solid state one. This is a bit of a trick, as you have to disable the one IN the fuel gauge, mount the new one externally, and then jumper power in through one of the gauge studs. The gauge has a 12V power in stud which feeds TO the IVR, 5V "out" stud which feeds the regulator output to the other gauges. THAT is where you jumper the 5V INTO that stud to power the fuel gauge. The 3rd is of course the sender terminal
