tunnel ram fuel line questions

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rod7515

rod7515

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Working on a 408 in a 66 dart. Im getting ready to install my TR5 edelbrock tunnel ram and I need to ask a few questions.
Ive run into a few issues with this intake manifold and running some fuel lines.
I was wondering what others have used as a fuel block to make a nice hookup? I bought a fuel block thats in the shape of a "y" but dont like the fuel lines are once its mounted.

Also I am running a manual temp gauge and the sensor that is placed into the intake is to large. I was wondering if there are any adaptors that i could use to make this work or do I need to find some type of tee fitting for the heater hose inlet connection. Or am i going to be forced into using an electric gauge with a 1/4" sender? I am adding some pics.
I also have a small hood and scoop clearance issue but I will post into the body area for advice there.
Thank Rod

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Buy a spacer made for the purpose, that goes under the water outlet and is tapped on the side(s) for extra ports
 
rod7515 said:
Also I am running a manual temp gauge and the sensor that is placed into the intake is to large. I was wondering if there are any adaptors that i could use to make this work or do I need to find some type of tee fitting for the heater hose inlet connection
Click to expand...
Drill and tap the t stat housing
 
If he uses a spacer or taps the t stat housing, won't that put the temp probe on the wrong side of the t stat? Will it matter?
 
Thanks guys, the Stat housing has a nice flat area that I could drill and tap. I had thought about that but wasnt sure if that would work because of what RustyRatRod has mentioned. Looking to see what others think of this. Tomorrow I will post a close pic of the housing.
Rod
 
Just a heads up. There are a few companies that make an adapters with the npt ports and the T stat goes above the spacer for that reason. T stat is still mounted under the housing. They are like $20 at Summit.
I used one on my fuel injection on the 273.
The system used a Chevrolet coolant sender and nothing on my weiland intake had a port that big. Works like a charm.
 
I agree with R3, the temp will be inaccurate if above the thermostat. I could see where drilling into a nice manifold like that, would be nerve wracking; but it looks like you have a nice area to drill and tap your own hole in the side of the manifold below the thermostat. You would want to make sure the temp probe will not interfere with the thermostat, but looks like it would work.
 
X2 on using the spacer, it keeps the sender below the T-stat.
And honestly, ditch the generic T-stat housing, it doesn't even have a rib on the outlet for hose/clamp retention- as soon as it builds pressure you could lose your top hose. Be a shame to lose the motor and all your hard work because you cheaped out on the T-stat housing.
Even RockAuto carries better ones for about six and a half bucks. Nice thick base flange, too.
Four Seasons 84830
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Here’s a pic of the setup on a hemi I had a tunnel ram
on.
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RustyRatRod said:
If he uses a spacer or taps the t stat housing, won't that put the temp probe on the wrong side of the t stat? Will it matter?
Click to expand...
If the t stat has a bleader hole there will be circulation.

On a side note an adapter made for the bypass hose would get accurite results
 
I would put the temp sender in the heater hose hole, and plug the little one. Are you gonna use the heater? Then find a nipple for the hose that will fit in the smaller hole.

Or, simply drill and tap the small hole to the size you want.
 
So I finally finished the hookups for the tunnel ram manifold. I ended up using an adaptor in the manifold for the temp gauge sending unit and then I drilled the thermostat housing and tapped it for the heater hose fitting. Hoping this works out for me.
Rod
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