If it runs, the distributor cannot be 180* out.
If it was out more than a few degrees, and you get the bright idea to take the D out and move it one tooth, forget it! All you will do at start-up is move the D back into alignment, and have wasted your time.
There is only one way to compensate for this aberration which is to move the trigger; be it a reluctor vane, or a point cam, or the base plate. And that brings a new problem called rotor phasing.
What I want to know is what is dot-to-dot?
If you put them nose to nose, and align them on the centerline using whatever for a straightedge, then it is somewhat easy to be out a tooth.
The proper way is to put them nose to nose, then rotate them until they are both 180* out, and then put them on the straightedge. This will get you about 6 more inches of accuracy.
I suggest you check to see where your split-overlap is.
BTW
occasionally, when you slip the cam sprocket over the nose, it might want to spit the key out. If you have difficulty during the install, this is a tip-off. If it happened to you, then the only thing keeping the cam sprocket from slipping, is the torque of the retaining bolt, which actually should be enough...... but obviously there is no way to tell where the cam-timing ended up at. Again, checking split-overlap is the fastest/easiest way to tell if you're in trouble.
