General steps based on what you've said:
1...Ground sender wire at tank, turn on key and see if gauge pins. If not, identify sender wire up at kick panel and ground the "forward" end of the connector and try again.
If that causes the gauge to peg, then resistance check the wire from the kick panel to the tank. First suspect is sender grounding, second is wire end terminals..........the angled terminal at rear, and the kick panel connector (or splice) in the kick panel
2...If test one does not cause gauge to peg, AND IF the temp gauge works (you can test it same--disconnect temp sender, ground the wire, see if temp gauge pegs---if temp gauge works and oil does not, time to pull the cluster as I outlined in the previous post
These are really quite simple
Power from ignition switch fees to cluster, and to IVR, which knocks down power to one stud at each gauge. the other studs go to the senders and ground
If neither gauge works, it may be sender, or wiring/ PC board problems
If temp works and oil does not, go through the steps in the previous post You are down to the PC board, harness pins at the connector, gauge stud connections, or the gauge
