What do you think it could run?

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I am hoping to take my Duster to the strip in the spring. It is BB 383 .030 over, decent cam (unsure of grind but definitely bumpity bump!), roller rockers, 10.5:1, Edelbrock Torker, Holley 750, and fenderwell headers. Trans is 727 reverse manual valve body, 3000 stall converter, 8 3/4 4.10 rear with locker. Tires are 26 inch 9.5 wide tall Hoosier DOT slicks and 4.5 inch front runners. Car weighs 3240. What do you guys think it should be capable of?

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13.50-14.0 lot of variables
 
One thing is certain........ nothing anyone thinks it will run, or posts on this thread, will have any bearing on what the car actually runs at the track.

true, of course.
That said, the guy made a post asking people what they thought it would run.
You need not be a dick, Dwayne
 
I didn’t think I was being a dick??

There was a lot of back and forth with various reasons for why the combo would run this or that........ I was just pointing out there wasn’t any need to get too “invested” in ones thoughts on it.
It’s going to do what it’s going to do.
 
It’s easy........ just click “add to cart”
:steering:
I learned to be very careful about putting something in a cart but not following through with the purchase about 15 years ago. I had a European motorcycle and there was a company in Austria that made high end exhaust systems for the bike. Was salivating and pipe dreaming and put the system in the cart to see what the final cost was going to be, saw it was close to $800 and bailed. Lo and behold about a month later UPS delivered a big box from them! I never ordered it. Someone there made a mistake, thinking it was paid for and shipped with no payment! Ended up paying them (very honorable yup) even though they screwed up, but from then on no “add to cart” dreaming for me unless I intend to buy it. :realcrazy:
 
stay tuned !! 3.23 gears may come out... and the 204 @ 050. cam Oh, this morning i was on the coan website, thinking on replacing the factory torque converter :)
Converters converters converters!! :thumbsup:
I’m about to re-install the 727 I rebuilt and swapping out the TA 3500 tight for the 9.5” FTI 4000 hard hit I’ve had on the shelf seemingly forever. Weather permitting I’m headed to the 1/4 this Wednesday evening if all goes as planned. :steering:

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Back in the day....my 69 Charger, 383-2bbl engine with stock short block, original iron heads with bowls blended, 750 vac Holley, Eddie DP4B intake, old 284/484 MP cam, 4.10 gears, 27x9 5" slicks. 13.0's. Never made it to the 12's. But that was like your car pulling a 1000# trailer as it tipped the scales at 4260#'s plus me!! You'll easily be low 12's or into the 11's if it will hook.
 
I would bet low to mid 13's. I've never been a fan of the 383...its got the weight of a big block with the cubes of a small block (approximately)...just my opinion.
 
I have been a fan of the 383 since the introduction of the Roadrunner! Beep Beep!
get used to it... 318's and 383's are not preferred as much as 302's Fords and 283 chivies here on this site :)
 
I went 12.48@108 with a 2,500 stall and 3.73 gears in my heavy 74 Duster so I'm thinking 12.00-12.20s.
 
12.66 @103in street trim , 3450lbs . 11.8--@106 race trim , 3200lbs
Dang, that's a big drop in ET from street to race (and dropping 250lbs....wowza). Just curious, what did you do differently from street setup to race? Only asking because my car runs exactly the same in street trim and race trim (because I don't change anything).
 
Dang, that's a big drop in ET from street to race (and dropping 250lbs....wowza). Just curious, what did you do differently from street setup to race? Only asking because my car runs exactly the same in street trim and race trim (because I don't change anything).
:popcorn::popcorn:
 
Should run 12-12.5 if its running good! I spend all my time on the 1/8 but I would expect that car to go 7.75 @ 88-90mph and drive it home. I have a 383 in my Super Bee that is comparable to yours has ran a best of 7.98 @ 86 with a 3500 converter and 3.55 gears w/28in radials that by the calculators is 12.40s 1/4. Long story short.... I'll race you.
 
Basing it on 3240 and a conservative on track 350fwhp>
60 Foot E.T. : 1.70 Seconds
1/8 Mile E.T. : 7.72 Seconds
1/8 Mile Trap Speed : 88.08 MPH
1/4 Mile E.T. : 12.23 Seconds
1/4 Mile Trap Speed : 110 MPH
1/4 Mile Trap RPM : 5,810 RPM
 
Basing it on 3240 and a conservative on track 350fwhp>
60 Foot E.T. : 1.70 Seconds
1/8 Mile E.T. : 7.72 Seconds
1/8 Mile Trap Speed : 88.08 MPH
1/4 Mile E.T. : 12.23 Seconds
1/4 Mile Trap Speed : 110 MPH
1/4 Mile Trap RPM : 5,810 RPM
I would agree with that as best case scenario, but his car is near 3400 with him in it, so....12.35?
The problem is info that is missing about camshaft (hyd or solid)so no one knows powerband or ideal shift point.
Op has stated he will be happy under 13s. I think he'll be happy.
(If a hyd cam, I'd shift at 5500, solid at 5800-6000)
 
I have really enjoyed reading all the estimates and replies. I have some things to work on before I can make it to the strip with the car. I am going to Gainesville next month as a spectator.
I have not been to a drag race since I believe the early 80's, and want to ask some questions and look around so will have some education when I finally take the car.
I have one of those drag race timers on my phone so once I get the car sorted, I will try to timing it with that, at least get 60 foot and maybe 1/8 mile. I am going to be conservative on the revs and shift at 5500 or under. I just ordered a NX mainline 100-250 shot plate kit,
so I look forward to trying that as well.
 
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