Lowest cost 400 stroker

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Mean416

Mean416

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Hey y'all.

I just scored my 400 engine core and 727 for the full size Jeep wagoneer project. Got a pretty good deal on that.

Im just wondering what's the cheapest route to massive cubes for the build. I'm not trying to build a mega power high rpm engine. It's a 4500 lb Jeep I'm building as a camping, trail rig. I'm really only interested in low RPM torque output and would not anticipate going north of 5000 rpm.

I was thinking stock forged 440 rods. I've been trying to find a cheaper crank and pistons but not having much luck. I know the 440 crank can be turned to get a 451", but I'm wanting to go bigger if possible. Plus the machine shop isn't so hot on turning down a stock crank. Suggesting by the time we did that I'd be better off with an aftermarket crank.

I've looked around for cast cranks and pistons but they seem non existent.

Open to any and all suggestions!

Many thanks!
 
Just get a 440 source kit and be done. You can offset grind a stock 440 crank but as you said, no one wants to screw around with that stuff anymore. Better to get a kit, have the shop mic it all up and test fit in block so you don't have any issues. Then assemble yourself.
 
You could get after market main caps and have the block line bored to a 440 crankshaft main diameter. 65'
 
Cast crank strokers are available for chevies, ford's, and small block mopars. I don't know of any for a bbm.
I agree with 80fbody, get a 440 source kit, as complete and balanced as possible, least worries and grief during assembly.
 
Don't kid yourself a 451 will snap most of the parts in your Wagoner no problem. Stroke makes torque but so does bore a 451 purpose built for what you're talking about would be a monster and I really can't believe you would need much more. Unless you're dragging a single 50 foot trailer around LOL
 
K.O. SWINGER said:
Don't kid yourself a 451 will snap most of the parts in your Wagoner no problem. Stroke makes torque but so does bore a 451 purpose built for what you're talking about would be a monster and I really can't believe you would need much more. Unless you're dragging a single 50 foot trailer around LOL
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Haha since when is it about need? I wanna do a 4wd burnout with 37's. The parts will include front and rear d60 axles. Transfer case TBD.
 
Title of the thread "Lowest Cost 400 Stroker" That's the 451. No contest. Then you say "No I want bigger" LOL
 
IMO the 451 low deck stroker is the best of the bunch.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Title of the thread "Lowest Cost 400 Stroker" That's the 451. No contest. Then you say "No I want bigger" LOL
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......aaaannnnd whatsyourpoint?


Besides with the machining costs to mod the crank or the block, actually it's not so cut and dry.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Have you read the 451 Manifesto?
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I've read a little. I'm sure the 451 is great. But including the cost of a crank, the machine shop is going to charge me close to the cost of a new crank with a longer arm.

All other things being equal I'd rather have 500" than 451, especially for low end torque production. Wouldn't you?

Why wo
 
Mean416 said:
I've read a little. I'm sure the 451 is great. But including the cost of a crank, the machine shop is going to charge me close to the cost of a new crank with a longer arm.

All other things being equal I'd rather have 500" than 451, especially for low end torque production. Wouldn't you?

Why wo
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Do what you want. You asked a question. Remember that part.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Do what you want. You asked a question. Remember that part.
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Thanks. I will!

I was just hoping that I could solicit advice. Maybe 451 is the cheapest. But I'm not 100% convinced. What's the machining cost to turn the 440 crank and balance it. Do you know that offhand?
 
Mean416 said:
Thanks. I will!

I was just hoping that I could solicit advice. Maybe 451 is the cheapest. But I'm not 100% convinced. What's the machining cost to turn the 440 crank and balance it. Do you know that offhand?
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The last one I had done was about 300 bucks. That was about 2001. I think you can buy one very reasonably now, too.
 
RustyRatRod said:
The last one I had done was about 300 bucks. That was about 2001. I think you can buy one very reasonably now, too.
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2001 was 20 years ago. 300 in 2001 is easily 500+ now. Especially with current inflation and labor.

What would your suggestion be if we're talking off the shelf forged crank?
 
Mean416 said:
2001 was 20 years ago. 300 in 2001 is easily 500+ now. Especially with current inflation and labor.

What would your suggestion be if we're talking off the shelf forged crank?
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440 Source has um for 799.
 
Mean416 said:
Right. What displacement would you recommend?
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Well, I must admit, if I were building from scratch and buying the crank ready cut, I guess I would build the largest kyoob motor my budget could stand. That said, there's been a LOT of good talked about with the 470. Also the 499/500.

Also of note though, is "where" the power level cutoff is for a stock block. Isn't it somewhere just north of 650? I honestly cannot remember. I think whatever I chose, would certainly keep that number in mind, "whatever" it is. Because the more motor you opt for, the easier it will be to eclipse that number.

I don't know if any of that made sense. I've been up for over 24 hours.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Well, I must admit, if I were building from scratch and buying the crank ready cut, I guess I would build the largest kyoob motor my budget could stand. That said, there's been a LOT of good talked about with the 470. Also the 499/500.

Also of note though, is "where" the power level cutoff is for a stock block. Isn't it somewhere just north of 650? I honestly cannot remember. I think whatever I chose, would certainly keep that number in mind, "whatever" it is. Because the more motor you opt for, the easier it will be to eclipse that number.

I don't know if any of that made sense. I've been up for over 24 hours.
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No, what you said...it all makes sense. At the rpm and head flow limits I'll be at, I'll do very good to crack 450-500 on the top end.
 
Mean416 said:
No, what you said...it all makes sense. At the rpm and head flow limits I'll be at, I'll do very good to crack 450-500 on the top end.
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Well damn, I'd just build the 451 and be done with it then. It'd make that fallin outta bed drunk on seven cylinders.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Well damn, I'd just build the 451 and be done with it then. It'd make that fallin outta bed drunk on seven cylinders.
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Yeah...but low end torque and power would still be way better with the 500. And $ for $, it's probably better.
 
Mean416 said:
Yeah...but low end torque and power would still be way better with the 500. And $ for $, it's probably better.
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I can't argue that. What heads are in your plan?
 
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This is about as cheap as I can get, but still would need rods. I could probably have a set of factory forged rods set up for a few hundred. So best case itd be $2100 vs $2500 for a kit with aftermarket rods.
 
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