WWFD? (What Would FABO DO??)

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That would help a lot but not much if it's on the North side of that building.
east side.
For use on inclined, tab-shingle roofs and in downspouts and gutters only. Not for use on metal roofs.
schizen.....should have read the instructions....fail.
 
east side.
For use on inclined, tab-shingle roofs and in downspouts and gutters only. Not for use on metal roofs.
schizen.....should have read the instructions....fail.
Then that's a BIG plus for more pitch. That gets my vote.
 
I am now searching for WHY that heater cable is not to be used on metal roofs. Kind of a "I dont want to send this stuff back...just run it" attitude. Its metal for cryin out loud. Tape it to the top and put it on a switched outlet. done.
 
Just get a kerosene bullet heater....you know, the kind like a jet engine. Buy a stove pipe 90 degree bend and a joint of the same size stove pipe and rig it up where it aims up at the shed roof. It would melt the snow off in no time flat, and you could roll it around to melt snow in different sections pretty quickly. :)
 
Metal roofs............the heater disclaimer MIGHT be because the metal is one roof material that will simply absorb and dissipate the heat. Might not be very effective "but I don't know"

How big are the verticals? Looks to me like they are quite small and sparse compared to the joists. No idea the money you have/ want to spend, you might consider adding some more joists AKA trusses supported by added verticals. It could get expensive.

No idea the snow loads you see, you might plan on shoveling it. FALL ARREST HARNESSES!!! SAFETY ROPES!!!
 
Metal roofs............the heater disclaimer MIGHT be because the metal is one roof material that will simply absorb and dissipate the heat. Might not be very effective "but I don't know"

How big are the verticals? Looks to me like they are quite small and sparse compared to the joists. No idea the money you have/ want to spend, you might consider adding some more joists AKA trusses supported by added verticals. It could get expensive.

No idea the snow loads you see, you might plan on shoveling it. FALL ARREST HARNESSES!!! SAFETY ROPES!!!

20200923_164542.jpg


I did end up shoveling it that night it started to fail. It wasnt that bad but not really meant for standing on. The uprights are 2"x2", about 4.5' apart, and the rafters are 9" 'C' channel. Im not made of money but the thing cost $3600 to start and my time. So I feel like $100 to keep it from collapsing is worth it.......I may have a situation that I cant get up there to shovel and then Im at the mercy of some other entity be it hire it out or mother nature. It is much sturdier since the header/bolt upgrade (the header over the door is now doubled and run full distance vs the manufacturers 'split beam' design...), but the pier blocks and distance spanned are subject to scrutiny. I did not want to have a post in the middle of the drive.

Well, thanks for all the advice, I will chew on this for a second.
 
Jeez those vertical supports look and sound flimsy for the size of the thing. Is there no diagonals to keep it from "parrallelograming" towards or away in this photo? Is it fastened to the building?
 
Jeez those vertical supports look and sound flimsy for the size of the thing. Is there no diagonals to keep it from "parrallelograming" towards or away in this photo? Is it fastened to the building?
Yeah I got 45s up. The photo is while being built. Its now bolted to building, post 'incident'. I waited on the 45s to get everything built so I could go back and get legs vertical in case it shifted while bolting to building. I still would like to do something about those pier blocks but not sure as I may pour concrete.....

Thanks Del!
 
If you are not restricted by meeting codes/ inspection, there are other ways "to think." Look for used steel, or even lumber. If you could find some C or box or even truss members you could "scab" them to the ones already there. They don't even need to be full length. Get something long enough to span the most you can get for the buck, AKA maybe 2/3 the length etc.

YOU COULD ALSO gain some by using DIY CABLE trusses under the members now there. Those would not cost much

cabletruss__00962.1539908367.jpg
 
Well, the thing is probably pretty strong at this point. I will probably string this heater cable and see what it does during the next snow and adapt. I appreciate the ideas, I think a few more 45s in strategic places will help for earthquake situation. Otherwise I just string this wire in places and use a broom to brush off snow if the shitola hits the fan!
FABO rules!
Thanks fellas!
 
When I had my old stick built garage roofed, I used galvanized metal. Thought the snow would fall right off. I was wrong. it has a pretty fair pitch.......such that with metal, you need "sticky" tennis shoes to not slide off. I "guess" what happens is that a light snow freezes to the roof, and makes a "base" that won't slide until considerable warming.
 
When I had my old stick built garage roofed, I used galvanized metal. Thought the snow would fall right off. I was wrong. it has a pretty fair pitch.......such that with metal, you need "sticky" tennis shoes to not slide off. I "guess" what happens is that a light snow freezes to the roof, and makes a "base" that won't slide until considerable warming.

Thanks Del,
I work in emergency services and have a healthy fear of roofs and ladders. and motorcycles. and friggin everything else. totally damaged from this career path. too many 'things' seen. You would think that having survived a life in the trades and drag racing until 4 am would have given me resolve in my ability.......yeah....right. Everything and anything can kill you....oh well. I gotta go play in traffic now .....with no shoes running with scissors.....:rofl:love ya man.
 
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