Carburetor cfm calculator

Because it’s stupid to worry about that when the carb is close to proper size for the task at hand which in this case is not WOT performance. It’s a secondary minor at best concern if at all.

What most people are looking for in there daily driver or mile hot rod is drivability first (response and mileage if that idea of mileage even makes the grey matter!) and good WOT second.

The amount of vacuum drop achieved is not of any real concern for most applications unless maximum results are your thing. The difference in a 1.5 to a 1.7 is a few hp at best. Something you’ll never feel and be very hard pressed to see at the track with a street driven seldom seeing the track car.

This, by you;



Is out of wack and dangerous to follow. This will for certainly lead to a poor performance tire not e in each class you listed. Been there, done that, seen it tested, seen it dyno’d, heard it from seasoned fellas.

Even @ 0.5 for a race engine is boarded line in some case, if not out right crappy. Full blown take no prisoners exempt from my descriptions above.

These are also not cfm ratings but pressure drops in the engine.

Not all People might not be looking to get every last hp but I imagine they at least want 80% when they spend $500-1000 swapping from a 2 bbl to 4 bbl.
Difference between 650 and 750/850 might not be much but from the formulas 390-450 cfm for a stock ish 360 to what 600-650 cfm most people would put on they would want that hp gain. But picking for a mild combo really ain't that hard I bet most would agree 600-650 cfm for small block maybe some would say smaller for a 273 and 750 for a big block. It's all the other cases where this stuff becomes an issue especially when wanting a good balance of max performance and driveability.

As for the 3 ratings, my main point was there should be 3 stock, performance and race the vacuum numbers I quickly picked weren't the point, the ones if they did do that should work with that formula and help get people a little closer in the ballpark.