Same thing happens if the IVR is not grounded.
Gauges going all the way on startup + smoke
- Thread starter Ivan Baez
- Start date
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There's your problem... Our 50+ year old dashes HATE led lights. Oh wait that's just me!
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The oil gauge would surely go to max. Because the limiter is puttng out more due to a short circuit, the other 2 gauges would climb some. Maybe not to max rapidly but some.
The black powder shown in that gauge was the insulation on the limiters nichrome winding. Thats the 1st sign of a problem before opening the gauge. All these winding start life with a pale gold spiral wound fiberglass insulation. I assume the winding on the limiter shown is shorted to the beam. It's bottled up pretty good. Not easy for visible smoke or odor to get out.
I've found a little soot on the back of the screen where the notch in rim of can is too.
I had to check it this morning to go to work, because my wife's SUV was going to service so she needed mine and its too cold to ride my motorcycle.
Turned the key on again and voila!, the gauges were still alive!. I still have to validate they are accurate, but on the way to work they seemed okay, all of them moved to their normal range an position.
Thanks a lot for your tips and the information provided!
- I turned the switch on again, and the fuel gauge went to full again, the others take a little bit longer, but turned it oof immediately
- Checked the oil pressure wire and was ok, attached to the sender
- All connections to the regulator seemed ok, nothing loose or broken
- I checked the ground connection from the regulator to the chassis, no connection
- I doublechecked the wire and its attachment to the dash screw that holds it, it was okay
- I made nother wire to attach to the regulator GND pin, and screwed it directly to the chassis.
Turned the key on again and voila!, the gauges were still alive!. I still have to validate they are accurate, but on the way to work they seemed okay, all of them moved to their normal range an position.
Thanks a lot for your tips and the information provided!
Dartswinger70
Well-Known Member
so what was it the ground? Only asking because I'm into mine. I feel like Ive had my dash out a hand full of times and I m getting sick of it...
I also have a ground wire that I am going to terminate in the steering column bolts. when I think about it its my own fault Ive had it out , i didnt do it right years ago. Now I he resoldered pins, did the LED upgrade replaced lamp sockets etc.
i also did some under dash wire repair. Soldered and shrink wrap no butt connectors.
I also have a ground wire that I am going to terminate in the steering column bolts. when I think about it its my own fault Ive had it out , i didnt do it right years ago. Now I he resoldered pins, did the LED upgrade replaced lamp sockets etc.
i also did some under dash wire repair. Soldered and shrink wrap no butt connectors.
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so what was it the ground? Only asking because I'm into mine. I feel like Ive had my dash out a hand full of times and I m getting sick of it...
I also have a ground wire that I am going to terminate in the steering column bolts. when I think about it its my own fault Ive had it out , i didnt do it right years ago. Now I he resoldered pins, did the LED upgrade replaced lamp sockets etc.
i also did some under dash wire repair. Soldered and shrink wrap no butt connectors.
Yes, I just relocated the wire gound to a screw in the metal part of the dash because the multimeter di not show good continuity in the gauge cluster housing, which is where I had the ground before. The old voltage regulator is still good.
Thank you, thank you very much.
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Yes I'm gloting!
Really glad your gauges are functional.
I route my inst' panel ground to behind the left kick panel, same as heater case is grounded behind right kick panel. I put male/female connectors at the inst' panel so it will disconnect like everything else. I think this is how factory should have done it.
I can test it all before completing install, later remove nuts and lower the column to the panel out some without losing the ground.
I can test it all before completing install, later remove nuts and lower the column to the panel out some without losing the ground.
All the gauges worked out fine until this saturday. waiting with the engine on at a gas station it turned out that the e-fan fuse blew out and the temperature went up to 240f or so, so some teams started to come out of the coolant reservoir. I turned the engine off, and used water to cool down the radiator until it came down and was able to check the radiator coolant level. It basically sucked back all the liquid so it was not bad really, the car ran just fine afterwards, fuse was replaced and working, no leaks, etc.
The problem is that apparently the temp gauge went all the way up (I didnt see it because I has talking to my daughter) and now the gauge is dead, is if totally cool all the time. I can monitor the temperature using the edelbrock proflo application, but would like tha gaue to work again as I dont always have the proflo app open.
I searched the web to see how this can be fixed, but found mostly "tests" for the gauges, I will perform this tests during the weekend but fear that the gauge itself broke or something because of the previous incident, besides, all other gauges work fine except for this one. If broken I wonder if I could take a working gauge and just replace the needle and graphics faceplate so they all look the same?, mine have a black shiny finish, I have seen others and look matt finish so apparently I cannot just swap it because it will look different than the others.
As a side question, what is the ideal running temp for this engines both performance and efficency?. I have my fan set at low speed at 194f and high speed at 205f.
Thanks for your feedback.
The problem is that apparently the temp gauge went all the way up (I didnt see it because I has talking to my daughter) and now the gauge is dead, is if totally cool all the time. I can monitor the temperature using the edelbrock proflo application, but would like tha gaue to work again as I dont always have the proflo app open.
I searched the web to see how this can be fixed, but found mostly "tests" for the gauges, I will perform this tests during the weekend but fear that the gauge itself broke or something because of the previous incident, besides, all other gauges work fine except for this one. If broken I wonder if I could take a working gauge and just replace the needle and graphics faceplate so they all look the same?, mine have a black shiny finish, I have seen others and look matt finish so apparently I cannot just swap it because it will look different than the others.
As a side question, what is the ideal running temp for this engines both performance and efficency?. I have my fan set at low speed at 194f and high speed at 205f.
Thanks for your feedback.
Just purchased a working OEM replacement temp gauge, will arrive in a couple of weeks, hopefully I can perform the "transplant" and make it work again. This weekend Im gonna diagnose the signals just to make sure the issue is not there but in the gauge, otherwise Im gonna end up with a "spare" as I do with the amp meter, still waiting for its conversion to volt-meter ... hahaha
New aftermarket gauges would be an improvement. No way I would trust 50+ year old gauges unless I absolutely had to.
The gauges worked finse until I had the initial "smoke incident" :S. I like the look of the original Rallye gauges they look awesome from my perspective and still work after 52 years.
I saw a setup somewhere in this forum from Dakota Digital that looked very close to the original look with modern components, unfortunately it was a custom made set of gauges, I looked in their web page but is not listed yet. I have not taken the time to call them ans ask them how much it costs
You can leave OEM ones in place and add a triple gauge set under dash, that way it retains OEM look with new reliability.
You dodged a bullet so far with smoke incident in my opinion.
Good luck.
You dodged a bullet so far with smoke incident in my opinion.
Good luck.
Did some checks in the connections today as per the service manuals, it turned out that the gauge does work, apparently the sender is bad. I tested it by grounding the connection and the gauge moves all right. Will replace the sender and see what happens.
I replaced the sensor, they sold me a 22 type according to their on-store catalog while I had seen 17 type as replacement in ebay for my uear and vehicle. The sensor is physically the same I do not know what difference there may be. The gauge worked now, the only thing I noticed is that the range of the needle for the right temp is a little bit lower than before.
Another thing I found is that my derale fan seems to have something wrong with it. I blew the 30A fuse, then I replaced it for a 40A one and blew it a couple of days later too. The fan does not feel as loose as it was originally, like it drags. Will have to order a replacement.
Another thing I found is that my derale fan seems to have something wrong with it. I blew the 30A fuse, then I replaced it for a 40A one and blew it a couple of days later too. The fan does not feel as loose as it was originally, like it drags. Will have to order a replacement.
That's usually the way it work, put a bigger fuse in
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