Points gap for a 63' slant 6 225

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No, it's actually specified as 0.017" to 0.023" (which means you want to shoot for 0.020").

0.016" is too narrow, and was never the factory spec.
 
Well .016 will give you more dwell time. That's what I've used since the 60's. More dwell will charge the coil longer. If you ever start a /6 on a cold Michigan morning a touch more lighting won't hurt. As a matter of fact I put a lot of MSD's on them for my customers also. Got to love that fire.
 
There is always plenty of dwell at idle & lower rpms, especially with a 6 cyl [ compared to 8 cyls ]. It is at higher rpms that dwell can become insufficient. Excessive dwell just heats the coil unnecessarily.
 
I haven't used a feeler gauge in 40 years on a set of points UNLESS THERE IS ABSOLUTELY NO OTHER CHOICE

1...Bump engine so points are open on cam. set "by eye" so they are "I guess" about right, so they open and close.
2...Inspect cam make sure it is clean smooth and not rusty.
3...Make sure you have a SMALL drop of proper cam lube grease on "entry" side of points rubbing block
4....Hook up your DWELL meter and crank on starter to get a reading, with coil wire grounded
5..."Guess adjust" points. More open = less dwell, more closed = less dwell

Dwell spec is 40-45 YOU WANT IT ON THE low figure (more open) side, because the rubbing block will wear closed

6...Recheck dwell with engine running. Set dwell FIRST and timing SECOND. Dwell affects timing

IF YOU do all this right, IF THE distributor has not worn, IF THE dwell and timing were both correct at the previous tune-up, you will not have to change the timing
 
67Dart273 said:
5..."Guess adjust" points. More open = less dwell, more closed = less dwell
Click to expand...
Pardon? What he meant to say was more closed, more dwell.

The real-world way to do it is pull the distributor out and take it over to the bench, or a table or whatever so you can actually see what you are doing. Of course, mark the position of the rotor before removal. Once you get it out and ready for attention, replace the points or at least set the gap. Use dry, oil-free feeler gauges to do so. Next, make sure the vacuum advance can is intact and pulls the advance plate with vacuum applied. Next, put a couple drops of 30 weight oil on the felt pad underneath the rotor button. That is what keeps the advance plate lubed. Last, add a few drops of that same oil to the oiler on the side that lubes the upper bearing. Chrysler finally eliminated that about 1969 after they realized people were happier having to replaced a worn-out distributor than they were having to oil it. Drop the distributor back in, check the timing and you are off to the races.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Yeah I don't know how to do a degree mark with the keyboard so that was what I came up with. lol
Click to expand...
Here you go Rusty! 45°
Press and hold down Alt key and type the numbers 248. For more cool symbols just Google Alt codes.....cool stuff on there! Have fun...
 
CNC-Dude said:
Here you go Rusty! 45°
Press and hold down Alt key and type the numbers 248. For more cool symbols just Google Alt codes.....cool stuff on there! Have fun...
Click to expand...
lol. Thanks man!
 
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