440 Duster swap

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MOPARMAGA said:
Yep, I'm putting in fender well , most likely will modify some to gain tire diameter clearance
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Not sure of the budget your wanting to stay in and maybe overkill but TTI makes headers for BB a bodies and no cutting of your inner fenders and get tire clearance as Well
 
I am just gonna go TTI A body RB headers, and a manual box (PST or Southwest Speed....any feedback?). If its too much to steer, I will get the Epas. It is not a crazy expensive build, I just don't want to buy things twice.

If the guy does end up selling the Tri Y's before I am ready to order stuff then things would change of course.
 
Muswagon said:
I am just gonna go TTI A body RB headers, and a manual box (PST or Southwest Speed....any feedback?). If its too much to steer, I will get the Epas. It is not a crazy expensive build, I just don't want to buy things twice.

If the guy does end up selling the Tri Y's before I am ready to order stuff then things would change of course.
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Try and get some weight off the nose...... It will cost money however Aluminum Heads, intake, waterpump housing, radiator, and I am sure some other items.... You can get it pretty close to a factory small block car. I would have went that route but at the time my Dad was going to drive it. Life changed and so it goes lol....

JW
 
100%. I am going with Promaxx 9440 heads, Mopar dual plane the one that is the same as the eddie RPM but has Mopar on it so it is cooler. Champion aluminum rad. Did not think about an aluminum water pump tho, excellent idea.
 
I second that... my iron-head (for the moment) 451 sits on 195-series front tires, and a 16:1 manual steering box. It's a little stiff turning with the car stationary, but otherwise is barely noticeable. In fact it feels very responsive like a go-kart!
 
67mprfan said:
Not sure of the budget your wanting to stay in and maybe overkill but TTI makes headers for BB a bodies and no cutting of your inner fenders and get tire clearance as Well
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Right, I can't afford them. I was able to get some ceramic coated 2 inch hookers brand new for real cheap of craigslist a few years ago + my dart is just a drag car slant 6 car & don't mind cutting it up.
 
Muswagon said:
100%. I am going with Promaxx 9440 heads, Mopar dual plane the one that is the same as the eddie RPM but has Mopar on it so it is cooler. Champion aluminum rad. Did not think about an aluminum water pump tho, excellent idea.
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Sure it's just not more expensive. I used to buy Mopar performance but God it is priced REDICULOUS.
 
Muswagon said:
I am just gonna go TTI A body RB headers, and a manual box (PST or Southwest Speed....any feedback?). If its too much to steer, I will get the Epas. It is not a crazy expensive build, I just don't want to buy things twice.

If the guy does end up selling the Tri Y's before I am ready to order stuff then things would change of course.
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Just fyi the tri-y will limit you to 475 hp the primaries are very small
 
SLOPAR72 said:
It's definitely a viable option. I had no interest in cutting on my car however under different circumstances I would have considered it....

JW
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Yeah it's a $400 dollar drag car, gotta cut it up anyway
 
Find yourself a set of Pro Parts headers, Mazzollini was having TTI repop them for him for a while. They are semi fenderwell, 2 1/8" stepped header, no tire clearance issues. I had to dimple a tube to get clearance for a tie rod end when turning, other than that they fit good. #4 and #6 plugs are tight, and plug #5 requires getting to from underneath.
Fit with plenty of room with manual steering, which isn't bad, and I have sticky 235's up front, just have to be rolling a little to turn them.

Pro Parts A-body Big Block Step Headers Are Back! TTI Exclusive!

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Pro parts headers are no more, new anyway. Someone said there was a set of them for sale on Moparts, but that site is a gong show to say the least, still looking lol
 
Muswagon said:
Pro parts headers are no more, new anyway. Someone said there was a set of them for sale on Moparts, but that site is a gong show to say the least, still looking lol
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I figured they were gone, I think it was about a year ago Mazzolini had a limited run made and had them. They weren't cheap, but they were inline with TTI prices.

The do hang pretty low, I have dragged the collectors many times.
 
Awesome info here, thanks all. I cannot tell you how great this forum is, or Mopar people in general. I have been a Ford and Chevy guy at times and between getting ripped off by the local DoucheWagons, and the horrible people on the forums and Facebook pages it was enough... Chevy guys are WAY worse than Ford by the way. Mopar people are a great change and a breath of fresh air. It is exiting to own an old car again. I have only been doing my own mechanical stuff for about 6 years, so I have learned alot but maybe that will help explain some of my silly questions at times :)

Ok, back to the show...

Headers.. Seems to me unless I can get a good deal on Pro Part headers or Tri Y's, I am just going to get a new set of TTI 440 headers, the 1 3/4 ones. We all agree they fit with manual steering on a 440? Cannot get Schumacher mounts so I plan to use the Trans Dapt 'copy' of the Schumachers with my 71 K member. I believe that will work and I just need to notch for oil pump/filter?

Heads.. Seems the Promaxx, Sidewinder and 440 source 210 heads have been backordered forever and I cannot get a straight answer from any of those vendors, which also tells me they are the same casting? Anyway, what are your thoughts on the Eddie 5090 E street? Looks to be the same head as the RPM, with heavier valves, powdered metal seats and weaker springs (says flat tappet only). The thing I really like about the Eddie heads is they are available in 75CC chamber. If I go the good running core lower compression engine route, I would think this solves alot of issues.

I had my heart set on a roller cam setup for no other reason than its cool and I keep reading about faster ramp rates and wilder profile being tamer etc, but cannot really justify the extra cost. E street flat tappet heads are almost the same price as Promaxx heads which will work with roller. The cost of a nice flat cam kit is dramatically cheaper than a roller setup as you all know. So, what would you guys do? Is roller that much better? Probably a dumb question, but refer to my first paragraph lol
 
I have not posted here for quite sometime but wanted to chime in with a little experience from my swap. Sorry I havent had the time to read entire replies so if I repeat info forgive me. 1974 duster original /6 auto. I used a stock 440/727 from a one ton truck. Schumacher mounts, 26 inch aluminum rad from champion. Exhaust is always the hot topic. So I experimented with several. I had a 400 with manual steering and the cheap b body headers worked with a hammer, but worked. Switched back to RB and power steering and used TTI ($800) shorty headers. They fit well with power steering but are on the box. I had to use an expensive clockable billet starter from powermaster ($300+). Also used the TTI headpipes. So in short I used p-steering and was able to flip the shift rod and use column shift. It does rub though. When I finish my move across the country and recover from covid, I will start posting pics.
 
1974 Duster said:
I have not posted here for quite sometime but wanted to chime in with a little experience from my swap. Sorry I havent had the time to read entire replies so if I repeat info forgive me. 1974 duster original /6 auto. I used a stock 440/727 from a one ton truck. Schumacher mounts, 26 inch aluminum rad from champion. Exhaust is always the hot topic. So I experimented with several. I had a 400 with manual steering and the cheap b body headers worked with a hammer, but worked. Switched back to RB and power steering and used TTI ($800) shorty headers. They fit well with power steering but are on the box. I had to use an expensive clockable billet starter from powermaster ($300+). Also used the TTI headpipes. So in short I used p-steering and was able to flip the shift rod and use column shift. It does rub though. When I finish my move across the country and recover from covid, I will start posting pics.
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Get Well Bro!
 
My car is a stock 340 car, will my torsion bars be enough? any suggestions if not?
 
worked. Switched back to RB and power steering and used TTI ($800) shorty headers. They fit well with power steering but are on the box. I had to use an expensive clockable billet starter from powermaster ($300+). Also used the TTI headpipes. So in short I used p-steering and was able to flip the shift rod and use column shift. It does rub though. When I finish my move across the country and recover from covid, I will start posting pics.[/QUOTE]

Thanks for the update and information. I'm following this post for my build.

Get well soon!
 
Muswagon said:
My car is a stock 340 car, will my torsion bars be enough? any suggestions if not?
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Define enough? They will work. I ran /6 bars with mine for a while. Excellent weight transfer for at the track. Now my car is setup to be a spirited driving street car, I run PST 1.03" bars with Bilstein RCD shocks. Rides and handles great.
 
No need to define, you did a great job on my question! That is excellent info... I am been trying to figure out exactly what i want, cannot hurt to try it with the 340 bars and go from there. 1.03 from PST seems to be a common answer on searches
 
We used stock 340 suspension in this car with a 383/PS/AC/iron manifolds and it drove nice enough. It was built to be a fun cruiser...
Barracuda 11.JPG
 
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