brake issue

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69fastbackfish

69fastbackfish

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Cincinnati Oh
drivers side rear drum grabs when moving forward, but not in reverse. Car is on jackstands and the parking brake cable is disconnected. brake adjuster is all the way retracted. brakes are 10".
 
Take it apart and check the springs if one brakes your in truble one problem whid drum brakes is dust to mutch and the brake looks up
 
This is what I have going on do I have it right
There are not any miles on these shoes

79E5A8D4-6E5D-401B-A0ED-8931417CAA25.png


C2313A4A-4A7F-415A-93E5-9872527B10A4.jpeg
 
Pic from back, you say e-brake is disconnected, lever should be secured to shoe. Appears partially applied or lever is moved forward.
 
Looks right but do you have a spring in the lower part and is there good tension in all the springs if so check if the new shoes is stock thiknes if ok pur it togeather and and adjust as rec
 
Also make sure wheel cyl is not sticking.
 
Are the cyl rep cleand honed and new seals if not do that first a lot of the time the cyl are pitted bec people dont change brake fluid 2 year interwall
 
Tooljunkie said:
Im starting to wonder,as it all looks normal. And testing behaviour on stands wont work imho
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Agree!

69fastbackfish said:
brake adjuster is all the way retracted
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This statement seem odd. The adjuster is there to fit the shoes to the drum. Perhaps being so loose it is grabbing and jamming the shoes???
 
Dana67Dart said:
Agree!



This statement seem odd. The adjuster is there to fit the shoes to the drum. Perhaps being so loose it is grabbing and jamming the shoes???
Click to expand...
Or one wheel is turning while testing the open diff on jack stands with loose brake drums? Your guess is as good as mine.
 
Are these brand new drums? If so have them cut to true them and remove a little metal. I have seen new shoes on new drums that ether the shoe lining is too thick or the ID of the drum is too small.
 
Make sure the bore of the wheel cylinders are the same on both sides.
If the left wheel cylinder has been replaced it may not match the one installed on the right side. I believe there were different sizes of wheel cylinders based on disc/drum, power vs non-power brakes, etc.
 
LBB pattern axels are the issue! Not. Just kiddin!

Brake lines and wheel cylinder sizes would be my next guess. I assume Yukon axles means a sure grip?
 
bcschief said:
Are these brand new drums? If so have them cut to true them and remove a little metal. I have seen new shoes on new drums that ether the shoe lining is too thick or the ID of the drum is too small.
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Not my post, but Man, when I moved to Tampa and got into Mopars, in 1989, EVERY corner parts place AND shop cut 'em.. Now? Man, it sucks...
 
mopardude62 said:
Make sure the bore of the wheel cylinders are the same on both sides.
If the left wheel cylinder has been replaced it may not match the one installed on the right side. I believe there were different sizes of wheel cylinders based on disc/drum, power vs non-power brakes, etc.
Click to expand...
Yessir, I seem to remember you can put C body ( larger) bore on the rear drums.... cheap upgrade
 
the drums are new, completely took park brake cable off and reinstalled the theparts and it works now. my park cable doesnt slide in and out of the sleave so im wondering if thats the problem
 
Take some wd40 or your favorite product and spray down the outside of the cable housings wipe off, repeat several times. Then soak them down let sit overnight soak again and start flexing the housings to get the oil inside. This usually will work.
 
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