Knife Sharpeners

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Cool thread. I could use some sharpening advice from any willing to give it. I have a Boker hunting knife that I use for gutting and skinning deer. It’s 440C stainless and I’m having a hell of a time getting a good sharp durable edge on it. I’ve been using a set of wet stones and I can get a decent edge, not razor sharp, but it doesn’t seem to last. I usually only get done with one deer and it’s dull. Any tips?

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Ever try a lansky?
 
You don't, but how do you even know if it's dull? How do you know if it's sharp? I hate to be the guy that says it, lets see ya slice some pieces off a home depot receipt. Scalloped blades are for sawing rope and most can't. Worthless.... Maybe good for a piece of narrow French bread? Sorry man, hate 'em.
I use a scalloped knife in the woods for deer. Makes splitting the chest cavity cake and fine for field dressing. Has remained really sharp. Never had to sharpen in 5 years and about 12 deer. Don't laugh but it was a gift from my wife made by Cutco. Very comfortable too. Now back to sharpeners.

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Ever try a lansky?
That’s what I use. A 3 stone Lansky set up for a 25* angle. Maybe I just suck at it. I know doing deer is hard on a knife- hacking at bone, hide, and cartilage but it just seems like the edge doesn’t last. It’s definitely not as sharp as it was when it was brand new.
 
Cool thread. I could use some sharpening advice from any willing to give it. I have a Boker hunting knife that I use for gutting and skinning deer. It’s 440C stainless and I’m having a hell of a time getting a good sharp durable edge on it. I’ve been using a set of wet stones and I can get a decent edge, not razor sharp, but it doesn’t seem to last. I usually only get done with one deer and it’s dull. Any tips?

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What you need to do is play with the angle of the bevel. A 10 degree bevel is easy to get razor sharp and fails quick.

A 30 bevel is very hard to get "razor" sharp and will maintain that edge for much longer.

The "wider" the bevel the better it "holds an edge."

Im sure Boker can tell you what angle it is sharpened at now and just increase from there. Or take it to your local knife sharpening guy and tell him to put a "working edge" on it.
 
Some knives have a warranty that is void if not cared for properly. Years ago a friend of mine had a Buck knife that the blade chipped on. He sent it in, and they refused to repair it because he had sharpened the blade at the wrong angle.
 
I have a Lansky that works pretty good. My old 30 year old 2 sided Craftsman works very well but, takes practice.
 
Some knives have a warranty that is void if not cared for properly. Years ago a friend of mine had a Buck knife that the blade chipped on. He sent it in, and they refused to repair it because he had sharpened the blade at the wrong angle.

Microtech states warranty void if sharpened by customer.

I called and spoke to them about it and it only voids the warranty if you screw up the bevel. Microtech uses a crazy small edge. It is very hard to sharpen and very easy to screw up.
 
Cool thread. I could use some sharpening advice from any willing to give it. I have a Boker hunting knife that I use for gutting and skinning deer. It’s 440C stainless and I’m having a hell of a time getting a good sharp durable edge on it. I’ve been using a set of wet stones and I can get a decent edge, not razor sharp, but it doesn’t seem to last. I usually only get done with one deer and it’s dull. Any tips?

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Unfortunately, 440C is is really soft, but highly rust resistant. I'd split the difference and run a 22.5 degree edge. Keep sharpening one side until you feel a curl then do 10 strokes on the curled edge, ten on the other, etc.
 
That brings up an interesting point.


My current trend is leaning twards softer steels. Now days I seek out softer steels. D2 is as hard as I want these days. I would rather be able to sharpen my blade easy when its dull rather than have the edge last and be a PITA to sharpen.
 
That brings up an interesting point.


My current trend is leaning twards softer steels. Now days I seek out softer steels. D2 is as hard as I want these days. I would rather be able to sharpen my blade easy when its dull rather than have the edge last and be a PITA to sharpen.

My knives in D2 are for work so it for that particular purpose, it's great. 5160 and S30V (like used in the top end Buck knives) are easier to sharpen and much less brittle. A lot of the characteristics of these steels depend a lot on the heat treat as well.
 
While we are talking knives. I stumbled on TOPS brand knives about a year ago and man they are nice. I have been carrying their CUT 4.0 for almost a year and it is perfect. Made in USA as well.


Now these guys I have yet to buy from but I will at some point. I hear great things about them. (Made in Italy)

Extremaratio – Knives Division

Any one own one of these bad boys?

And just to stay on topic (how dose it sharpen?)

:poke::rofl:
 
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