Big Inch Small Block

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My R3(9.20 deck 4.18 bore) W8 mill is Molnar internals (4” crank, chev pin, 6” rod). Been 9.10/146 pretty mild build in the scope of things….
 
justinp61 said:
Yours is bigger than mine! LOL
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That’s what she said! Baaaahaha. I have been inspired by your deal! No bar/cage as we are running out of tracks in Kalifornia. But Sac (until it closes) will let me make a few 1/8 mile squirts on a test and tune night. If it hooks and can go 6.5-something, I’ll be tickled pink! Especially on a 120 mile round trip driven to and from the track.
 
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Slo-kid, did I see your car at Irwindale a few months back for a 10.5 n/a race? With the wheels WAY up?
I'd post a pic I have, but for some reason I can't do that right now.
 
33IMP said:
Slo-kid, did I see your car at Irwindale a few months back for a 10.5 n/a race? With the wheels WAY up?
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yeah we corrected that…. Changed some stuff two weeks before that. Different 598 intake, 4500 carb from a 4150 style, and switched from 727 to 904. Tested in Tucson and though we had a handle on it…. unfortunately going from 26.64 baro to 29.78 changed the power considerably. I had no business running that 10.5 class, but I’d never been to Irwindale so it gave me an excuse.
 
the cracking reminds me of the machinists SBC cranks from his stock car. I believe he went with a "rattler" type harmonic balancer and that fixed the problem.
 
A body said:
yeah we corrected that…. Changed some stuff two weeks before that. Different 598 intake, 4500 carb from a 4150 style, and switched from 727 to 904. Tested in Tucson and though we had a handle on it…. unfortunately going from 26.64 baro to 29.78 changed the power considerably. I had no business running that 10.5 class, but I’d never been to Irwindale so it gave me an excuse.
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Wish I knew you were going to be there.
 
Problem fixed?

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I think it was still on the way UP!
 
BVoelzke said:
And I am obviously not happy about it after only about 200 runs.. luckily it only took out the front main bearing and nothing else even the rod bearing by the crack still looked good.. Thank goodness it didn't hurt the precious " R " block... I haven't decided what I am going to do fix it, part it out or sell whole.

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Like you said at least that RARE block wasn't destroyed
 
Millions of CHINESE
cranks , rods
Yada
Yada
Yada

But R block
Rare when produced and ever more so today !!!
 
33IMP said:
If you put it back together, I would recommend a molnar crank, or at least a scat.
Eagle doesn't have a great reputation in my circles, but I guess that is a little late, hunh?
All in all, It could have been a lot worse!
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I've never heard of Molnar. I was under the assumption ( I know, never assume) that Eagle wasn't one of those brands that made a gambler out of you, if you chose to use any of their products. I know their bolts and studs have a great rep.
Btw, does anyone know of the name of a forged crank company (I think it is in Calif.) that has a hispanic last name? It was one of the crank companies recommended in a book about building big block Mopar power written by the guy who owns Muscle Motors in Mich.
 
Tom Molnar use to own/run K1. I would avoid Eagle. I wouldnt hesitate with Molnar. For the money in the engine. Callies? Not sure how big of stroke Callies would make.
 
furrystump said:
Tom Molnar use to own/run K1. I would avoid Eagle. I wouldnt hesitate with Molnar. For the money in the engine. Callies? Not sure how big of stroke Callies would make.
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I have done some research on cranks, I've seen Molnar makes one for 4 inch stroke as do a few others its going to be awhile before I do anything with the motor, I have a few people that want to buy the motor as is I guess for the Indy heads and the " R ' block. It all depends on my finances the next few months, it will determine if I sell it or not. My just finished back up 367 bent a valve after 15 runs that problem has to be addressed first.
 
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