PINCHED NUTS QUESTION

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CFD244

"I LOST MY ID IN A FLOOD"
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Hi Folks

Can anyone advise if the fastening nuts on the lower control arm studs, and on the strut rods are supposed to be "pinched"? Sorry if I am using the wrong terminology.....Just wondering if the nuts are supposed to thread right on, or have some frictional resistance. Thanks.

Edit: Rubber components.
 
Hi Folks

Can anyone advise if the fastening nuts on the lower control arm studs, and on the strut rods are supposed to be "pinched"? Sorry if I am using the wrong terminology.....Just wondering if the nuts are supposed to thread right on, or have some frictional resistance. Thanks.

Edit: Rubber components.
Based on the title, I was going to recommend looser pants.
 
The rounded side is the top,outside of the nut.
Clean threads.
There will be some interference fit, but if the after threads look shiny...stop and back it off. Something is wrong.
 
Yes, they are interference nuts on an OE x LCA shaft and at least some of the OE struts.
lcapivotnuts.jpg
beerestoration2015-2016 1735.JPG
 
Hi Folks

Can anyone advise if the fastening nuts on the lower control arm studs, and on the strut rods are supposed to be "pinched"? Sorry if I am using the wrong terminology.....Just wondering if the nuts are supposed to thread right on, or have some frictional resistance. Thanks.

Edit: Rubber components.
Control arm stud nut, yes. Strut rods, front nut by the bushing(s), yes. Rear strut rod nut at the control arm, no.
 
I did know what he meant (oooch). It's either lock nuts or castle nuts w cotter pin. You gotta keep them on some way, coming off would be a bad day.
 
The OEM nuts on axle U bolts have tiny square impressions in 2 opposing sides. They were stamped, clamped, pinched, distorted. I've heard these called scored nuts too. Anyway, thats is where my thought went when I read "pinched".
 
The OEM nuts on axle U bolts have tiny square impressions in 2 opposing sides. They were stamped, clamped, pinched, distorted. I've heard these called scored nuts too. Anyway, thats is where my thought went when I read "pinched".
The term for the nuts you are questioning in the beginning of the post is I believe called Schrader nuts and are considered zero tolerance and essentially act as lock nuts. I made a mistake a long time ago thinking I stripped a thread but that is how they are supposed to feel when installing them.
 
In some cases the nuts are not "pinched". Instead, the male and female threads are an interference fit where the threads are cut in a slightly different pitch from each other.
 
I have front strut rod nut that threads right on. Could I just give that nut a squeeze in the vice to distort it a bit at the trailing edge?
 
They are described as Prevailing torque lock nut on line (not schrader nuts apologizes). A good fastener supply company should have them .
 
That's a better question than I would have thought. I did a search Lowes sounds like they might have what you need. Need size of course. Fastenal is another source if you have one in your area. A lot of nylocks but used properly they are a one time use,& I would not trust them. We have a place in town called pacific bolt, nice local outlet. Grainger & McMaster but you have to buy quantities.
 
I have front strut rod nut that threads right on. Could I just give that nut a squeeze in the vice to distort it a bit at the trailing edge?
I don't see why not. Any method to keep the nut from backing off......upset the threads on the rod after the nut gets installed.....tack weld the nut onto the shaft.....distort the nut a bit, etc.
 
In some cases the nuts are not "pinched". Instead, the male and female threads are an interference fit where the threads are cut in a slightly different pitch from each other.
Never heard of that. Sounds like a mismatch between Imperial and metric. Some will thread on a few turns getting tighter as you go.
 
I have front strut rod nut that threads right on. Could I just give that nut a squeeze in the vice to distort it a bit at the trailing edge?
If its the nut in bottom pic of post #7 I think you could distort that thin neck on top of that nut just like factory did and be good to go, or just use a chisel to distort it a bit after torqued to spec.
 
If its the nut in bottom pic of post #7 I think you could distort that thin neck on top of that nut just like factory did and be good to go, or just use a chisel to distort it a bit after torqued to spec.
Those pics are not op's
 
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