Slant 6 to 340 Engine Swap in 69' Dart

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rr4406pak

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Removing the Slant 6 and installing a built 340 in an automatic trans 1969 Dart and have some questions.

-The car has air conditioning and power steering stock. Any issues with keeping both as long as I can find brackets that will mount them on the 340?

-Can I use the same transmission and trans mounts the Slant 6 used (providing I beef up the trans internals)?

-Can I utilize the same wiring harness?

I know Ill have to upgrade the 7 1/4" rear end, the radiator, the drum brakes and get the correct motor mount adapters, but are there any other "gotchas" regarding this swap I need to be aware of?
Thanks.
 
Trans bellhousing will be different, but a small block trans shouldn't be too tough to find. 7-1/4 will blow with a tough 340, so you are on the track for an upgrade there. I'd guess power steering and ac would be OK with right brackets, but no direct experience from me on that one. There are conversion mounts for the motor available.... try TransDAPT available at Summit, etc. Good Luck
 
you need a V8 K member, with 340 motor mounts, Radiator, then all the other V8 stuff. That compressor won't hook up either, you need a V8 style. A 727 was original, but I am building a stout 904 for mine, lots to consider with the transition.

also, if you have 9 inch brakes, they have to go. with factory A/C you may have 10 inch brakes. also, with factory A/C you should have the heavier torsion bars, you won't know until you pull them out.
 
I can’t use the K-member that’s in the car now with the 340?
Even with the motor mount adapters?
If not, why?
 
sorry, I am old school, and go original only. When I put mine together I use only original equipment. So my advice goes that way, I'm not saying the other way is wrong, just not original. I bought some aftermarket mounts once to Install a crate 426 Hemi in a 67 440 GTX. what a joke, the engine shook the car all the time, and the mounts did not align up properly,,,and The mounts were too rigid, etc etc etc
Just my experience, maybe others had good luck with it.
 
I can’t use the K-member that’s in the car now with the 340?
Even with the motor mount adapters?
If not, why?
As stated, trans is out, the T-bars are most likely .850" dia., 340-360 cars would've been .870", stk Slanty is .830". Adapters are adapters, they'll bolt the engine in, but if You look there are V-8 K's for sale here & elsewhere. Throttle pressure linkage complete, throttle cable, trans, rad, hoses, driveshaft(or have Yours shortened), add leaves to rear springs or get correct new ones,off the top of My head.
 
Throttle cable may or may not work. Engine harness will be different. With V8's there is a 69 down cast Iron water pump and timing tab the and 70-up aluminum pump and cover with tab built in. The outlet is opposite of each other so you need to get the correct radiator for which ever pump you use.

Manifolds or headers? Which intake, as I recall some don't play well with AC? PS pump may not work, get a Saginaw anyway and while your at it get the PS box rebuilt by Firm Feel for Steer-n-Gear in fact might verify the slant PS box is the same internally than the V8.
 
Good catch on the radiator outlet. I'm definitely going to be using an aluminum water pump.
Have not decided which aluminum intake to use yet. I'll have to check and see which work with the a/c brackets.
I'm also going to be using headers.
So, if I understand you correctly, I need a 340 specific power steering pump but I could use the same PS box (or I can get it rebuilt by Firm Feel to improve it).

Also, what is the factory correct engine color for the 1969 340's?
I have seen some painted orange and others painted turquoise.
 
If you're going with the aluminum water pump ('70 and later setup) use everything (brackets and pulleys) for the '70 and up so things will match. You can use the basic A/C compressor, but, it will need the SB clutch/pulley and maybe oil pan. The A/C hoses will probably have to be changed to the V8 ones too. The condenser and evaporator assembly is the same and can be reused. P/S pump will depend on which brand pump and if there is a V8 pulley available to fit it. Same with brackets. As mentioned, you will need a small block transmission. Get a '69 up 904. That will install with the same mount and driveshaft as your 6cyl. The engine wiring harness will work fine too. Some wires will be a little long. I'd just rewrap the harness a bit to shorten them. Same starter and alternator.
 
Is the difference between the Slant 6 and the V8 power steering pump or is it just the pulley diameter?

How would a performance aluminum water pump (if they make an extra cooling version) affect things (like pulley/bracket alignment)? Or is just the standard stock aluminum water pump all you need?
 
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Would the same alternator work?

I did this conversion back in 2001 or so.

Yes, I used my original Slant 6 date coded alternator on my 340. Been working great for 20 years now.

You will have to change out the engine wiring harness only as the components on a 340 are in different locations than a Slant 6.
 
The only thing really different on the wiring is that the oil pressure and coil wire ends are more forward on the harness. Just unwrap the tape and move them back to the right spot and rewrap the tape.
 
I did this swap and my wiring harness worked fine..as stated shorten some of the wires.
i made my own conversion mounts...just copied trans dapt.
bigger torsion bars and I would upgrade to discs before i did anything else.. Manual steering is easy on an A body and gets the junk out of the engine bay.Just don't crank in the parking lot until you're moving.
bigger rad..read Griffen exact fit and you can idle in heat without worry.Keep your cam size modest if it's a street machine.Same with your rear tire size.This lets you use a stock converter. Too many guys put a bigger cam in and are disappointed.904 is fine and saves weight and less parasitic losses.
Now read Rusty's guide to hot rod bliss..save a bunch of money and avoid the flavours of the month and have fun.
Good Luck!
 
Long duration cams move the power band up.You will have to rev quite high to make any power.On the street you want to make lots of power at lower rpm where most of your driving is done.
A nasty sounding cam with rear tires that are too large quite often has disappointing power below 3000 rpm.
 
Had to modify my driver motor mount perch on the k member for power steering pump fitting. Also.. the offset on the pulley was wrong.. for a small block but did not line up. I put it in the press and pressed down on the center till it lined up lol. You’ll get 15 different answers for pulley and belt good luck
 
A nasty sounding cam with rear tires that are too large quite often has disappointing power below 3000 rpm.
some to most of that can be negated by boosting the cylinder pressure back to the pre-cam level.

Op said "built 340" but that means different things to different folks. A small cam 340 is a bit like a hi-compression 318. Choosing a hi-compression 360 allows a slightly bigger cam without the drastic loss of low-rpm power, associated with loss of cylinder pressure.
The common trait among these is the finished cylinder pressure.
When working withe three common SBMs;
At the same static Compression ratio, and same Intake closing angle, and same local elevation; the Dcr and cylinder pressure will come in very similar . However;
the low rpm performance will differ by the same ratio as the displacement ratio. So from a 318 to a 340 is plus 6.9%, and from a 340 to a 360 is plus 5.9%, and that is the difference you can really feel.
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The thing is with 3.23s as the go-to rear gears, this low-rpm business in first gear, does not end until about 3000rpm/30mph. But it is always there, anytime the rpm is under 3000 to 3300 or so. That would be
between about 30 and 50 in second gear, and between about 50 and 75 in top gear. So then any time you want Rapid Transit, you need to downshift.
All things being equal, the 360 has the strongest low rpm, the 318 has the weakest, and the 340 runs right up the center.
To get around this with an automatic, you can just up the stall......but that affects the cruise economy.
So then if you need the bottom end because of the modest rear gear, then the 360 becomes attractive.
But if you don't mind running 4.10s then the 318 is fine.
And of course the 340 runs up the middle .
Since the differences in the bottom-end equate so nicely to the differences in displacement, you can use those same percents to determine what rear gear to run, like this;
318 x 4.10= 1304 and 1304/360 =3.62, so the 318 with 4.10s will feel similar to the 360 with 3.62s....... below about 3000 rpm.
However this doesn't tell the whole story, because 3000 rpm in first gear with 4.10s is only ~22.5 mph, whereas with 3.62s it would be ~24.5..
Of course, the 340 wants 1304/340= 3.84 to have a similar sub 3000rpm bottom-end performance.
As you can see, there is a huge difference in the rear gear differences.
As to cruising speeds, at the same 65mph, the rpm maths out to;
2930 with 3.62s
3110 with 3.84s and
3320 with 4.10s ; all at zero-slip.
Some to all of these differences can be negated with stall. The goal is to net the same torque number at zero mph, with each engine.
Lets say the 360 makes 240ftlbs at a stall of 2000rpm. The 340 would then need to make that same number to offer the same take-off performance with the same rear gear; but that might not occur until 2400; and the 318 might not get there until 2800. These are arbitrary numbers I just picked at random to illustrate the point.
But of course each of these engines will make progressively more power using the same components..... so the 318 is still gonna need more rear gear to keep up with the 360, as the speed gets incrementally higher.
The bottomline is that if cruise rpm dictates a small-number rear gear, but you still want the blast-off power with a smaller engine, then the only option, with equal build parameters of Compression ratio/heads/cam/and elevation, as stated above; is the stall.
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What does it all mean?
well, if you have a low-pressure 340 and you stuff a big cam into it with no other changes, this guy, ir333 says;
Long duration cams move the power band up.You will have to rev quite high to make any power.On the street you want to make lots of power at lower rpm where most of your driving is done.
A nasty sounding cam with rear tires that are too large quite often has disappointing power below 3000 rpm.
On the street you want to make lots of power at lower rpm where most of your driving is done. and I agree. You can always back off the throttle if you get too much wheelspin. But if the engine won't even squawk the modest 295s back there, that would be such a disappointment.
Happy HotRodding

BTW
if you do not yet have a 340, the 360 is a cheaper build and falls together with closed-chamber heads, with enough compression ratio to make worrying about cylinder pressure, a thing of the past.
 
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FYI, the plan is to bore & stroke the 340 to a 416, forged crank, aluminum heads, aluminum intake with roller rockers and lifters.
 
AJ/FormS I really appreciate your input! Why you don’t want a big cam in some instances makes more sense now.
 
You know that the biggest tires you can fit in the back of a 69Dart are probably 255s right?
A regular hi-compression 360 will annihilate those. With 3.55s, and in Second gear at 45 to 50mph she will light those up with nothing more than a footstomp, and they will keep on spinning till I shift. My 367 with a 223/230/110 cam would spin 275s sometimes to over 85 mph.
I do not see the advantage of having a 416 in a streeter....... but I've never had one, either.
I mean why would I? the speed limit everywhere in Manitoba where I live, is 65mph on two-lane hiways, and speeding tickets carry huge fines. The cops can even impound my car, and/or take away my driving privileges. For me to have a 416 under the hood, for the one day in seven years when I maybe might go to a track three hours away, makes no sense for my situation.

For a streeter, traction is the #1 problem. And the correct rear gear is the Second. Any of the 318 to 360 SBMs can be engineered to haul the mail to 65mph, in a 69Dart with stock factory tubs.
If you tub it, and install 325s (or more), now you have more or less turned your 416-equipped car into a point and shoot type of car. To get it to handle will take several more thousands of dollars.
You know this right?
The 69-340Swinger with rally Suspension was a well-rounded pkg. Make it a 360HO with a modest cam so you can run 2.94/3.23s on the hiway, and it's done. Just a lil stall would be icing on the cake.
 
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