Anyone heard from @Wyrmrider lately?

It is all Situational. When you want an easy cruiser that idles like it’s not even running, you don’t suggest a .904 only ramp rate solid lifter cam with .580 lift on a 106 with inverse ramps.

Ed “Isky” has a great write up on it.
Harvey Crane has great write ups.
Is there a time and place for a Lightning quick rising ramp rate? SURE!
Does it belong in most peoples regular or hot rod rides?
F-NO!
Also! Build dependent as most things, but there is a point where you can lift the valve up so fast that there is no more benefit. So why bother?

Using a cam half this aggressive will haul the mail and do it awesomely. Heck! I’ll name a name! Comp Cams, Magnum Cams or there XE line. (Much nicer though) Many write right here how they love’em! They gloat how awesome there cam is producing power and how bad *** it is. For them it’s fine but SOME people want to hit the wall on aggressive lobe design when something that’s half the animal will totally kick *** in the street or track.

Don’t get me wrong. There are guys running 10’s, 9’s even possibly 8’s with a Comp cam. But it ain’t there run of the mill off the shelf cam when you get going fast!

While you may find power with a more aggressive ramp, you will only end up changing out valve springs way long before and many times vs an average or even slightly more aggressive cam lobe. How often do you want to change your valve springs out on your mile 400hp - 360?

You want an education? Take some time out with the Automotive Math Handbook and take a class from David Vizard on cams. You’ll **** your draws!

Take a good look at the master lobe spec sheets and really REALLY pay attention. Howard’s was posted up here not all that long ago.

Most builds will eeeeeek out a 1.2 average of torque but a really good cam selection will up that anti quite well!
I would add that just because you have a .904” lifter doesn’t always mean you need to take advantage of it. All I’ve ever read (from more than just wyrmrider) was about how much you are giving up, or you’re giving up the Chrysler advantage, running slow, lazy, Chevy lobes, old technology etc ad nauseam

Plenty of comparisons on the dyno from articles but can’t say I’ve seen anything regarding comparisons at the track. Nor has anyone ever shown how big a fender, door, car lengths difference there would be either on the street from any various launch, rolling speeds/rpm gear drops etc Nor times at the track difference. All theory/speculation or calculations. Not actual.

Not questioning that there is an advantage, just mostly the assertion of “giving up too much” that has been and is still bandied about. Average street or street/strip setup I’d say there are other ways to likely make up any difference, and not have to deal with all that comes with fast rate .904” lifter profiles. Just my take