Camber Gain

I think that's easy for me to understand. If I understand your question rightly (that's another story,lol), here goes;
Our Mopar front suspensions have un-equal-length control arms. When the suspension goes up relative to the body, this design forces the wheel to tilt inwards at the top. The higher it goes the more it tilts in.
As the suspension droops from it's static ride height, the top of the tire gets tilted inwards again.
Somewhere in the middle, your alignment tech can set the camber to zero, and the factory design is such that at the specified ride height, the camber change is supposed to remain relatively small in about the first inch of suspension travel, in either direction.
This camber change cannot be eliminated with the factory design.
This design is for two reasons; 1) in a straightline, it attempts to keep the tire relatively flat to the road as the suspension moves up and down, in that ~2" window. and 2) in a turn, the wheel with the load on it moves up into the wheelhouse, thus tilting the top of the wheel inboard; while simultaneously the other side of the car rises up and tilts the wheel back towards straight up. Thus the cornering force is sent to a tire that is nearly flat to the road, and this gives the tire the best chance to NOT slip sideways.

Your factory alignment specs to a really good job at this, and the proof is in the long tire life.
The thing is, when you increase caster beyond the factory amount, this destroys your camber "neutrality". This action, causes the steering geometry to be changed, and at zero-toe, the tire-tilt changes speed and amount. If you don't do something about it, the car will self-steer when it encounters a change in ride-height, such as a bump or dip or during turning. And also when the edges of the tires come against a change in the road flatness like ruts; the tires will try to climb up the side of the rut, and you will interpret this at the steering wheel as "nervousness" or perhaps "wandering". This is called bump-steer. On a street car, bump-steer is IMO, unacceptable.
This cannot be eliminated. But it can be minimized by restoring the camber curve to get the window back. Most of this bump-steer is caused by the steering knuckle-arms having been tilted downwards, relative to the pitman/idler arms. So you have to restore that angle. But another portion of the bump-steer was caused by the combination of caster-plus-camber change, which caused the knuckle arms to move outboard relative to the centerline of the car. So you gotta fix that as well.
All of this is best done in the alignment shop, because it will require plotting the camber curves multiple times. The proper way to minimize this is to BEND the knuckle arms up and inboard. But if you have never done this before, you have no idea how far to bend them. So after each attempt, you have to produce another graph.
You have to start in the window of minimum camber change.
The second best way is to shim the tierods up and make another graph. Then shim the knuckle arms over, and take another graph. As often as may be required to get the camber change minimized in the 2inch window of suspension change.
If you find the ride height unacceptable when you are done, you will have to change it by tire diameter. As for me, I just lowered the rear until I liked it.