Lowering kits options

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jcolman

jcolman

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I'd like to lower my ride by 1" or maybe 1.5". I've seen options ranging from flipping the mounting brackets, lowering blocks or complete kits including springs.

I don't race the car so I'm not looking for the best option for traction. I just think my car would look better lowered a bit.

I know that I can lower the front by simply adjusting the torsion bars. But what do the experienced members here recommend for lowering the rear?

I really don't want to spend $500+ on the Hotchkis kit but if I will if it's my best option. I'm more inclined to go with lowering blocks.
Hotchkis®
1" Sport Diamond Cut Rear Lowering Leaf Springs more details on - 1972 Plymouth Duster Performance Lowering Kits - CARiD.com
 
Pic of my car for reference

78470864-770-0@2X.jpg
 
Why is the rear so high, that’s not stock that way. What has been changed?
 
The rear can be lowered with a simple set of blocks, you don't need to flip the mounting brackets as the rear axle is already above the springs. Blocks are cheap, so you can lower it and decide if you like it. Also, you may find that you don't have enough tire clearance, and that may be why the car's ride height was set the way it was.

In the front, you can lower it with the torsion bar adjusters. But keep in mind that if you do that you'll need a new alignment. Also, if you have factory torsion bars and bump stops lowering the front with the adjusters will probably lead to you bottoming out your suspension too frequently. Which will give a lousy ride and handling.
 
72bluNblu said:
The rear can be lowered with a simple set of blocks, you don't need to flip the mounting brackets as the rear axle is already above the springs. Blocks are cheap, so you can lower it and decide if you like it. Also, you may find that you don't have enough tire clearance, and that may be why the car's ride height was set the way it was.

In the front, you can lower it with the torsion bar adjusters. But keep in mind that if you do that you'll need a new alignment. Also, if you have factory torsion bars and bump stops lowering the front with the adjusters will probably lead to you bottoming out your suspension too frequently. Which will give a lousy ride and handling.
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Thanks for the input. The front end does have stock torsion bars but the upper control arms are QA1 and the bump stops are also aftermarket if that makes any diffrence. If I have to keep the front end as is, I'm ok with that. It's mainly the rear end height that I want to lower.
 
jcolman said:
18" wheels.
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Sure but how tall are the tires? I think it's raked because of the springs on there, not the wheels.

jcolman said:
Thanks for the input. The front end does have stock torsion bars but the upper control arms are QA1 and the bump stops are also aftermarket if that makes any diffrence. If I have to keep the front end as is, I'm ok with that. It's mainly the rear end height that I want to lower.
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It does make a difference because with the QA1 UCA's you'll be able to get a decent alignment even after you lower the car. I would say that if you intend to lower the front you'll probably want larger torsion bars up front though. Something in the 1" to 1.03" range is usually pretty good for a street car.
 
72bluNblu said:
Sure but how tall are the tires? I think it's raked because of the springs on there, not the wheels.

It does make a difference because with the QA1 UCA's you'll be able to get a decent alignment even after you lower the car. I would say that if you intend to lower the front you'll probably want larger torsion bars up front though. Something in the 1" to 1.03" range is usually pretty good for a street car.
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Rear's are 27" and fronts are 25". Full specs:
Front Tires: 235/40 ZR/18. Rear Tires: 245/50/ZR18. I don't know squat about the springs. This was a car that was re-built then sold to a dealer. I bougth it from the dealer. I've tried to get all the information about the car from the builder but I can only get so much information.
 
jcolman said:
Rear's are 27" and fronts are 25". Full specs:
Front Tires: 235/40 ZR/18. Rear Tires: 245/50/ZR18. I don't know squat about the springs. This was a car that was re-built then sold to a dealer. I bougth it from the dealer. I've tried to get all the information about the car from the builder but I can only get so much information.
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Ok, that's definitely because of the springs then. They're probably super stock springs, the mopar performance 002/003's more than likely. You might be able to find a number painted or stamped into one of leafs, they're usually marked.
 
72bluNblu said:
Ok, that's definitely because of the springs then. They're probably super stock springs, the mopar performance 002/003's more than likely. You might be able to find a number painted or stamped into one of leafs, they're usually marked.
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yea, look around the springs, look for markings and take pics of markings.

imho, just looks like too high of arched springs.

try some lock and new U-bolts if you don’t have the extra length sticking out of your current ones.
 
Check your lower control arm bump stop clearance also when lowering. There is an upper and lower.

check your pinion angle when you put blocks in, you might have to put in angle shims to correct angle once lowered…

this is Firm Feel SS springs, with 1 inch bocks, FF sway bar mount, and dual eyelet front spring mounts.
 
Thanks guys for the advice. I've ordered a pair of 1" lowering blocks from Mancini and will install them during the transmisison swap. I'm also adding torque boxes to my car at the same time.
 
jcolman said:
Thanks guys for the advice. I've ordered a pair of 1" lowering blocks from Mancini and will install them during the transmisison swap. I'm also adding torque boxes to my car at the same time.
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Good plan! While you're under there you can see if you can find the part number on the springs. That way if you decide you like the ride height with the blocks you know what springs you have, so if down the road you decide to do a spring change to make the ride height more permanent you know what to get.
 
Jcolman,

could your rear shackles be longer than stock?

That was an old school way of raising the rear. Wouldn’t hurt to check.
 
doug 371 said:
It's not because of the wheels...something has been modded.
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The wheels have nothing to do with it. Its the height of the tire...

That car is higher than stock at all four corners. None is good for handling or safety too for that matter. Thinner lca bumpstops up front, along with the proper shock length to start. Keep the tire height in the upper 25". Dusters don't tolerate taller tires due to the fender opening. This relationship is critical and people miss it almost all the time.

I'd like to see the rear leaf and spring hanger before commenting.
 
BergmanAutoCraft said:
The wheels have nothing to do with it. Its the height of the tire...

That car is higher than stock at all four corners. None is good for handling or safety too for that matter. Thinner lca bumpstops up front, along with the proper shock length to start. Keep the tire height in the upper 25". Dusters don't tolerate taller tires due to the fender opening. This relationship is critical and people miss it almost all the time.

I'd like to see the rear leaf and spring hanger before commenting.
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Pic of hanger and spring

hanger.jpeg


spring.jpeg
 
just put 2" blocks on the back, done deal. I think it looks great as is!
 
jcolman said:
No numbers. It says "made in Mexico"
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I believe all the Mopar Performance leaf springs are made in Mexico. There are a at least couple different model offered for A-bodies

Are there any stampings in the leafs themselves?

A277C930-3974-4E5C-BB0F-9DCA7BCC481F.jpeg
 
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