What you propose is essentially "a different" bypass, and Crackedback has been offering a harness for this for several years now. BUT there is a BUT........and that is that MOST of the ammeter circuit STILL NEEDS TO BE intact because it feeds power from the engine bay to the interior of the car. Whichever part of the wiring is "weak" means that "the rest of it" must make it up, and if there is weakness "on both sides" of the ammeter, then you STILL have a problem
The "key branch off" is the welded splice, which as shown in the Mad diagram, is in the black ammeter wire. This means that with your direct bypass, IF the output terminal on the alternator to the original black wire, or the bulkhead connector terminals, OR the welded splice itself, if any of that is compromised, you still have a problem
So If the welded splice is OK BUT either of the other points on the black charge wire are compromised, now the only feed path for power in the interior is the original RED ammeter wire. So if the fuse link is partially compromised, the red wire bulkhead connector terminals, or the ammeter and it's terminals, YOU STILL have a problem
BEAR IN MIND I'm not saying what you say is a bad idea--many guys do this--but simply be aware that it is not --alone--a "fix all."
