WHAT do you do?

From what I've seen and heard about reman'd or even new OOTB aftermarket heads, the valve guides are usually too tight. Sooner or later the valve seizes in the guide or the springs give out from too much/uneven loading. I brought a pair of SBM Edelbrock heads to my local machine shop/race engine builder, he took one look at them and said "Oh boy, these look like hell, they need EVERYTHING. Seats look terrible, guides are shot, casting quality isn't good" and on and on. The heads were used but AFAIK the previous owner just took them out of the box, bolted them on and ran them until his engine threw a rod out the block. One thing the shop did as a precautionary measure was install dual valve springs; the head porter guru who works there said they don't take chances with single springs anymore, too much risk of one breaking and dropping a valve. With duals at least if one spring breaks you have one spring left to keep the valve from falling into the cylinder. They also requested the full specs for the camshaft I was using and the valve spring specs provided by the cam manufacturer so they could select the correct ones for my application.

Only way to prevent any further bending-over-getting-screwed is to closely check and verify EVERY SINGLE PART you put into your engine. It is a lot of work but sadly these days it's rare to have engine parts for Mopars be in perfect shape ready to go fresh from the supplier unless maybe they're from a company that does ONLY Mopar stuff. I'm having that same shop I mentioned machine a 440 block and I will be getting 440Source Stealth heads for it; even though everyone I've found who uses them said they're in good shape OOTB I'm still going to drop them off at the shop for a full inspection. If they end up putting new cam bearings in I'll probably do the same with the camshaft even, oftentimes the journals are a tad oversize or the bearings are a tad undersize and it binds up; happened to me with a 360 I built years ago, new cam bearings installed and the camshaft barely went in all the way and seized up hard. Machine shop had to take the block back and chamfer/clearance the bearings to make it fit correctly.

For me it's just due diligence at this point. Any new engine build, I go into it with the assumption that every non-factory-OE part I get will need to be inspected and possibly modified to fit and work properly.